DIY: RX-8 Oil Change for dummies
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DIY: RX-8 Oil Change for dummies
Just changed my oil tonight, and this is by far one of the easiest cars to change oil on. As long as you have the right tools
Mobil1 Oil Filter M1-108 (search the miata boards, there's a bigger replacement for this one that should work well)
-or-
Fram xx6607 (not a fan of the frams, but it was the only one I could cross reference) The xx will be DG for "double guard", but the #'s remain the same
EDIT: The other oil filter p/n here: Except, I would ditch the stock filter in favor of a Mobil One M1-108 or M1-105 (big). Source is here: http://www.quithel.co.uk/zz_Power_gen.htm I have not tried it, but I'm going to give it a try on the next oil change.
EDIT: it's actually the M1-110 that is the big filter, just got it today!
Remember Series II (2009~2011 RX-8's) ONLY use Mazda Genuine Oil Filter.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...s-2-r3-188392/
Case of Castrol GTX 5w20 ( you see "high mileage" on the box, but it's just an advertisement, it's the regular GTX stuff)
Oil Filter "F" type cap wrench
Ratchet
12" extension
3/8" flex joint
19mm socket (oil pan)
Jack
Oil pan.
Start with the basic tools here
Mobil1 Oil Filter M1-108 (search the miata boards, there's a bigger replacement for this one that should work well)
-or-
Fram xx6607 (not a fan of the frams, but it was the only one I could cross reference) The xx will be DG for "double guard", but the #'s remain the same
EDIT: The other oil filter p/n here: Except, I would ditch the stock filter in favor of a Mobil One M1-108 or M1-105 (big). Source is here: http://www.quithel.co.uk/zz_Power_gen.htm I have not tried it, but I'm going to give it a try on the next oil change.
EDIT: it's actually the M1-110 that is the big filter, just got it today!
Remember Series II (2009~2011 RX-8's) ONLY use Mazda Genuine Oil Filter.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...s-2-r3-188392/
Case of Castrol GTX 5w20 ( you see "high mileage" on the box, but it's just an advertisement, it's the regular GTX stuff)
Oil Filter "F" type cap wrench
Ratchet
12" extension
3/8" flex joint
19mm socket (oil pan)
Jack
Oil pan.
Start with the basic tools here
Last edited by syntrix; 12-06-2003 at 05:16 PM.
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Jack up the right side of the car.
Get the oil pan under the drain plug.
Use a 19mm socket.
Remove the plug and let drain.
Be careful of the crush washer, mine went into the oil pan, and i had to hunt for it later.
Get the oil pan under the drain plug.
Use a 19mm socket.
Remove the plug and let drain.
Be careful of the crush washer, mine went into the oil pan, and i had to hunt for it later.
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pic of the socket and drain plug.
Lower the car to drain it properly. Then once it's all done, put the plug back in. (might have to jack the car up again).
Lower it and then let's get the new filter on.
Lower the car to drain it properly. Then once it's all done, put the plug back in. (might have to jack the car up again).
Lower it and then let's get the new filter on.
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Here's the new Mobil1 filter on.
Add your 3.7 Qts of oil. On mine, it was just a mil away from the dipstick top line.
Start the car for a while, and then 2x check for leaks and proper oil level.
Add your 3.7 Qts of oil. On mine, it was just a mil away from the dipstick top line.
Start the car for a while, and then 2x check for leaks and proper oil level.
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It's really that simple.
I spilled just a litte from the oil filter, but I let the car sit for about 20 mins while I was preparing everything in the garage. very very little oil came out of the filter.
Hope this helps you all!
I spilled just a litte from the oil filter, but I let the car sit for about 20 mins while I was preparing everything in the garage. very very little oil came out of the filter.
Hope this helps you all!
#8
Might want to add:
Before putting the new filter on, get a little engine oil on your finger and smear it on the rubber seal on the new filter. This prevents the rubber seal from hanging up on the metal surface and possibly creating a bad seal.
Excellent photos BTW.
Cheers,
Simon.
Before putting the new filter on, get a little engine oil on your finger and smear it on the rubber seal on the new filter. This prevents the rubber seal from hanging up on the metal surface and possibly creating a bad seal.
Excellent photos BTW.
Cheers,
Simon.
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Thanks for the props!
You can't fill the oil filter before putting it on the car, so I just poured a little bit in to get the filter wet. Definately smear some on the gasket!
Also don't over tighten the filter! 3/4's of a turn after it makes contact!!!!!! You can do it by hand, but the filter wrench makes it so much easier!
Ahhhhh, nothing like fresh oil in the engine!
You can't fill the oil filter before putting it on the car, so I just poured a little bit in to get the filter wet. Definately smear some on the gasket!
Also don't over tighten the filter! 3/4's of a turn after it makes contact!!!!!! You can do it by hand, but the filter wrench makes it so much easier!
Ahhhhh, nothing like fresh oil in the engine!
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OK, I give. Why not jack up the left side, since the drain plug is on the right side? You get more oil to drain that way.
Also, I've quit using jacks - I just drive my car up along the front of my driveway and onto the sidewalk so only the left front tire is elevated from the street. Save a lot of hassle!
Also, I've quit using jacks - I just drive my car up along the front of my driveway and onto the sidewalk so only the left front tire is elevated from the street. Save a lot of hassle!
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I jacked up the right side so it was easier to get to the drain plug.
When it was draining, I just lowered the car so it would all come out of the pan.
You could jack the right up if you want that extra bit of oil to come out
I'm sure that if you are small or have long arms, you could reach that drain plug no problem, but it's just that much easier to jack the side up a bit!
When it was draining, I just lowered the car so it would all come out of the pan.
You could jack the right up if you want that extra bit of oil to come out
I'm sure that if you are small or have long arms, you could reach that drain plug no problem, but it's just that much easier to jack the side up a bit!
#13
I wouldnt say I have overly long arms, but could certainly reach my drain plug with the wrench. No jacking needed....just get up nice an close to the right front wheel and you can reach it and still have enough reach left over for torque.
Also, for $1 I would definately recommend you change the crush washer each time you pull the drain plug. That is why it is called a crush washer - it crushes. Once crushed youve used it up.
You may get by using it twice, but not much more left in it. I got the Mazda filter and the Stealership just tapped a washer to it at no charge! I was stunned, but gratfull.
Also, for $1 I would definately recommend you change the crush washer each time you pull the drain plug. That is why it is called a crush washer - it crushes. Once crushed youve used it up.
You may get by using it twice, but not much more left in it. I got the Mazda filter and the Stealership just tapped a washer to it at no charge! I was stunned, but gratfull.
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Thanks for posting these comprehensive instructions, I am planning to do my own oil and filter change a 1000 miles.
That is when I eventually get my car, some time in Novemeber.
Chris
That is when I eventually get my car, some time in Novemeber.
Chris
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I wouldnt say I have overly long arms, but could certainly reach my drain plug with the wrench. No jacking needed....just get up nice an close to the right front wheel and you can reach it and still have enough reach left over for torque.
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How did you keep the oil from running down when you took the filter off? did you use something to deflect or channel it to the drain pan, or just use rags to wipe up the oil?
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Originally posted by syntrix
Here's some interesting info. These filters are exactly the same.
Here's some interesting info. These filters are exactly the same.
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Originally posted by Rick
The Mazda oil filter looks like it has more filter paper inside of it.
The Mazda oil filter looks like it has more filter paper inside of it.
Yamaha is not wet at all. If you saw them in person, you would see it. BTW, the Mazda one is bound to be cheaper anyway.
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I guess alot of engines share the same size filters. My FD has the same size filter as a Hyundai 1.8L.
Syntrix,Is the price of the filters the same for the R6 & 8.
Syntrix,Is the price of the filters the same for the R6 & 8.
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There are a lot of common oil filters out there. 5-6 manufactures make 30+ name brands of filters.
Usually the M1-108 and M1-110 are interchangeable. For xreferencing, compare the ph7317 to the ph6607!
The M1-105(ph3950) is a bad choice for oversizing. Different internal specs.
Usually the M1-108 and M1-110 are interchangeable. For xreferencing, compare the ph7317 to the ph6607!
The M1-105(ph3950) is a bad choice for oversizing. Different internal specs.
#24
Originally posted by 6speed8
How did you keep the oil from running down when you took the filter off? did you use something to deflect or channel it to the drain pan, or just use rags to wipe up the oil?
How did you keep the oil from running down when you took the filter off? did you use something to deflect or channel it to the drain pan, or just use rags to wipe up the oil?
By the time I finished draining and replugging the bottom, the old filter didnt let out a drop when I pulled it.
Last edited by wleonard; 10-11-2003 at 04:44 PM.
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The pictures and information on changing oil are great. Thanks.
I do have a question. Are you familiar with the fumoto drain valves? I am about to order fumotos for my miata and tundra and was wondering if there would be any reason not to get one for my RX-8 as well. I have not changed oil yet as I have only 2K miles.
I do have a question. Are you familiar with the fumoto drain valves? I am about to order fumotos for my miata and tundra and was wondering if there would be any reason not to get one for my RX-8 as well. I have not changed oil yet as I have only 2K miles.