I don't believe this to be rocket science, and it shouldn't.
... but apparently, it is.

What is the most efficient way to correctly wire an amp in that DAMN car?!

Where to get signal? Where to ground? What converter do i need (if any)?

I don't want a fried headunit, I don't want any alternator whine, and I don't want the rest of the system to change.

Sorry for sounding like a bitch :D , but I feel like Homer talking to the monkeys paw.

I will be using a 4year old mtx 2300X amp, with line-level inputs and RCAs.

Thanks, and sorry again

 

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Been there, done that.

There's always a quirck, there's always discrepencies....

"don't splice before the amp"
"don't use that part, use this one... don't use this one, use the other one..."
"never ground back to battery"
etc
etc
etc

I've searched the board, I've read the threads. NO STRAIGHT ANSWERS.
Think i'm wrong? I would L-O-V-E to be wrong. Prove to me that i'm wrong.

 

if you are using loc's, then you can either get your signal before or after the amp. to help avoid alternator whine, make sure you have a good ground. best ground would be to run all the way back to the battery.

of course, even with my 8 years experience in the car audio field, im sure you will probably get conflicting answers in response to this thread. if you are unsure as to what you are doing, visit a local specialty car audio retailer, and either have them do the install for you, or ask them for advice. if they are a good shop, they should give you all the advice you need, so that in the future you will come back to them to conduct more business.

 

I picked up a 4gauge power wire 18 ft (red), and 2 ft ground wire 4gauge(blk)
also some will say you need to run a proper ground from battery ? I say pull the passenger side seat down and out theres plenty of ground area's to use under there.
im not saying there wrong.and im right

now for remote (orange or blue) try the green wire from the rear cigarette lighter/12v accesory
now for LOC use the rear speakers after the bose amp if installed in vehicle.meaning
where the speaker wires goes into the actual speakers.tap that wire try using a t connect.
dont ground the LOC.
those are basics with fuses,routing wires

 

Maybe the reason you are having such difficulty coming up with an answer...

Is because you are relying on others to tell you what to do.

This isn't rocket science, but it is electrical engineering.

I already gave you all the formulas you need. They are the same formulas that all good installers use to verify their equipment's capacities and limitations. Those are the same formulas they use to wire your house, or run powerlines down a neighborhood.

There is no: Oh, let me just plug it in and see if that works. If your at the point of guessing, then I suggest you take it to someone who will at least reimburse you for any damages that might arise while trying to tap the system.

A person who really knows what he is doing will have the entire system on paper before he even starts gathering the materials.

 

Dear staticlag,

I think you are missing my point. I don't want to use formulas, run around with my multimeter, fry my headunit or unbalance the system.

I want to (get this!) PLUG AND PLAY my amp and sub. Of course I have to tap here, bolt there, etc. But fact of the matter is that i'm not running for a prize winning $20k setup or a degree in electrons.

All I want is to do is the RIGHT THING, once. I don't want to waste a weekend figuring it all out on paper, or waste the next weekend on trial and error.

Short answers, no surprises.

thank you

 

if you dont want to waste time, take it to a car audio shop. a quality install should only take 2-3 hours tops, most likely have a warranty for the labor done, and be done neater and better, where doing it yourself, with (it seems) practically no knowledge of car audio installation, will probably take quite a bit longer, not have a warranty, etc.