Hey infinite rotary knowledge pool known as rx8club...

After 71,000 miles of pure enjoyment from my 2004 RX-8 6spd...I finally got my first CEL tonight. A quick scan from Advance Auto Parts tells me it's:

P2070
Intake Man Tuning
Valve
Stuck Open

Some searching on this site and others tells me this is just like it sounds. The one thing I have not found is a good solution to the problem. One thread claims a $3,000 bill to remove the engine, intake manifold and replace the stuck valve. At this point, I would much prefer to avoid sinking 3G's to fix valve. Has anyone envisioned, attempted, and/or succeeded with any DIY remedies for this problem yet.

Also, any ill effects from driving the car in hopes that it may "clear itself out"?

A couple of minor notes:

- Temperature recently dropped to the 0-20 degree F range in my area.
- No mods other than K&N drop in air filter

Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated! I do have access to a hoist and was planning on installing a SS clutch line tomorrow night, but am not much of a grease monkey, yet. Anything short of dropping the engine that might help?

 

Well, its a vacuum-actuated valve, so you can test it.
Removing the motor is the only good way to take the manifold off, but you don't need to remove it to test it.
With a vacuum hand pump and a volt meter, you can verify that the actuator works and that the sensor isn't at fault.
Then, you can check the solenoid that controls the actuator.

I'd bet that it is the solenoid or some bit of the wiring or the connector that is abraded, cut or dirty.

There is no side effect from failure of this valve, other than a loss of power

 

Thanks MazdaManiac. Any literature that you know of that might help me to test the actuator and the sensor? Like I alluded to my previous post, I have access to lots of equipment, but not much experience using it. I'd love to check this out, and see if I can pinpoint the problem, but have no idea where to start.

 

Its a fairly simple thing, but I wouldn't expect a Mazda tech to know how to do it.

Flip through the shop manual (on my site and elsewhere) and look at what the valve is and where it is located.
Its kinda buried, but you can get to it with some diligence.

Once thing you can do fairly easily (but it requires taking off the plastic upper intake manifold - annoying, but not difficult) is swap the solenoid for the VFAD with the one for the SSV. They are the same and the PCM doesn't have a sensor for the VFAD opening.
That will, at least, give you a confirmation of a few things.

 

I had the same issue with my 04 MT yesterday morning . CEL P2070 along with limp mode that lasted about an hour. I just spoke with the dealer and he said he has seen a lot of these over the last month or so. Its caused by carbon buildup in the valve, and all they need to do is clean the valve, which will cost about $120 (Not covered under warranty).

 

Any idea how they "clean the valve"? $120 is sure better than $3,000 that I was reading to replace the valve. At the same time, I don't want to pay someone $120 to spray carb cleaner into a hose or something simple like that.

 

Well, I guess its possible for the SSV to get a carbon build up, but I haven't seen it.
Usually its the APV that sees the carbon.
To clean it, you would have to take the upper manifold off and then soak the thing with SeaFoam or something similar and work it manually.
That is a good opportunity to check the solenoids while you have access to them.

 

I've seen carbon build up numerous times at work for the 2070 code. If under warrenty I normally replace the lower mannifold. I have seen carbon cleaning services help get the valve working properly but have not seen any issues with the connectors or loose wiring.

 

I have seen the solenoid fail.

If the valve is actually stuck, pulling the manifold is the most thorough way to fix it, its just not economical.

 

Are you talking about the vaccum diphram that works the valve, the switch that says if its open or closed for one of the 3 sol under the plastic upper mannifold?

 

The solenoid in the group.

 

gotcha, if its gone bad he could pull the vaccum line off the diaphram and if there is vaccum at an idle then the sol prolly screwed.

 

I usually just swap it with the VFAD solenoid.

 

great read.


beers

 

Interestingly enough, the CEL is now gone. I spent about 60 miles Thursday and Friday of last week running her in the 6,000-7,000rpm range. I was hoping the if there was some type of build-up causing the valve to stick that this might clear it out. Whether it actually worked or not is still unknown, but the CEL is gone...so I'm a happy camper, for now.

I'll be keeping my eye on this, and will be spending more time near redline than in the past. Keeping my fingers crossed!

 

hey ben-,check the similar threads here at the bottom of the page

ive also have seen and heard of the 2070 more from the carbon build up then any sensor issue. still might be a good saturday afternoon project for you to remove the UIM and get in the LIM with some seafoam.

 

Thanks MM, zoom and all, I am planning on still checking this out soon. I have a SS clutch line that needs to be installed, so when I go to work on that I'm going to see what I can do about cleaning out the intake manifold. I'll certainly need to read up in the service manual to make sure I know what I'm looking for.

 

This code just popped up on my car so I searched the code on the forums. So after reading what everyone had to say on here I called my dealer to ask him about as he is pretty smart when it comes to this crap.

He said grab a long screw driver and close the valve manually saying it may just be carbon build up that is causing the valve to stay open, after that clear the code and ride it hard for a few days. He then said if I see it pop up again he wants me to bring it in for a $139.95 "Emissions" cleaner which they will run through the intake to the exhaust.

What are your thoughts on this? Is this emissions cleaner a scam? Should I try cleaning the Manifold with some SeaFoam instead?

 

No One eh

 

You all fail Dan and I fixed it easy peasy Cost me zero dollars except Dan did lose a bolt :o

 

How?

S

 

A nut...you nut

And it wasn't free...going to cost you a few beers...

It was an easy fix though...removed the UIM.....damn it's easy on a 4 port

Poured in some "special cleaner" worked the valve around manually for a few minutes...and re-installed.

Smoked like a **** when it started...but seemed to be nice and free moving after that. Took about 2o minutes...after I found the swivel for the 10mm socket for the only nasty bolt on the manifold.

I think you could remove the SSV by removing the thermostat housing and the alternator and bracket.....on the 4 port at least.

 

You guys forgot to snap pictures of all this good stuff. For us car-guy newbs it's much easier to duplicate DIY procedures with pics.

My original issue was cleared up by running the Rennie HARD for a couple of days. I still feel like I should get in there with some Seafoam, since there's probably quite a bit of carbon still in that area.

 

Never think of the picture thing till after It really isn't difficult....if you have any questions PM me and I'll give you any help you need

 

I had the p2070 curse engine light pop up this week. Man this is going to suck to get fixed!!!