Getting my engine replaced.
06-05-2009, 11:44 AM
#1
Leisy
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Getting my engine replaced.
My engine blew about three weeks ago and they are going to be putting a replacement motor in. I was wanting to know just exactly what they are going to be replacing and doing? What new and old parts are going to be used?
06-05-2009, 12:15 PM
#3
if you already changed your FW to a new lighter one, and still have the old stock one around and you're a friend with the tech guy, you can ask him to swap the lighten FW to the new motor, then put the old stock FW back to the dead motor and you keep the new stock FW, sell it off ebay for some extra $$$ 
06-05-2009, 04:45 PM
#7
Leisy
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Ok thanks for the info, so will this motor be a little more reliable? Although I feel i'm somewhat responsible for putting in 5w-20 royal purple the whole time. Think I'll try 5w-30 or higher non synthetic.
06-05-2009, 05:25 PM
#8
It doesnt matter if its synthetic.
the problem is 5w20 and the insufficient OMP rate.
To be honest with you, even the "best" rebuild, if its using stock parts to rebuild, there would be no way that it would out-lasted a proper stock new build.
but hey, at least you're getting it for free, and this time, make sure you use something heavier. and try to premix a bit.
the problem is 5w20 and the insufficient OMP rate.
To be honest with you, even the "best" rebuild, if its using stock parts to rebuild, there would be no way that it would out-lasted a proper stock new build.
but hey, at least you're getting it for free, and this time, make sure you use something heavier. and try to premix a bit.
06-05-2009, 09:45 PM
#9
Leisy
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What's the ratio for the premix? Also does it sound right that I'm having to pay to have them clean the intake manifold? They are going to be using the old one.
Last edited by SoloMazda8; 06-06-2009 at 06:19 AM.
06-06-2009, 07:34 AM
#10
We have a 15.9 gallon tank. so 8oz every fillup is good.
actually, the premix bottle saids 1/2 oz to a gallon ratio. so yeah 8 oz is good.
intake manifold can be re-use. are you still under b2b warranty ? cuz cleaning them is not really that difficult
you shouldn't need to pay for it.
actually, the premix bottle saids 1/2 oz to a gallon ratio. so yeah 8 oz is good.
intake manifold can be re-use. are you still under b2b warranty ? cuz cleaning them is not really that difficult
you shouldn't need to pay for it.
06-06-2009, 09:50 PM
#12
Rebuilt engine parts to be exact.....maybe 20% chance I built it btw....
New parts guaranteed...
Rotors and components on the rotor like springs/seals, water pump, oil pan, all rubber/metal seals/gaskets, bearings for stat. gears and rotors
.
50/50 shot of new parts.....
Some housing are new, pulley, flywheel can be used btw but 75% are new roughly, eccentric shaft is usually used but chance of a new one.
Used........
Some housings, pulleys, flywheels, stationary gears are used but with bearings pressed in by yours truely(apperantly I am the only one there that is capable of doing it without messing up), parts in the oil pan(sensor, baffle plate so on), oil pump/chain.
BTW small note, all oil pans are updated to the newer style(metal baffle plate added).
Now to answer the question of whether it will last longer, well a rebuild usually wont laster then a new motor unless the new motor had a odd issue, it has used parts involved not new. Brand new housing all the way through would obviously give it a longer life but thats the way it is. Chances are yours had carbon built up and lacked power, my advice is read up on everything this site offers to keep it running strong. Sythetic is not neccesary, your rebuilt motor was just ran with convetional oil so you can start over, we test them by running them 22 mins and injecting them with some mazda gasket sealant to help them seal better(or whatever it does). I cant tell you what you should or shouldn't do since I work for mazda besides follow the what the manual says to do, just read advice on here and make your own choices. I am no expert, I just build it(bottom of the ladder at mazda usa). BTW managed to beat my record of assembling the motor, built one in 22mins last week lol best of luck.
New parts guaranteed...
Rotors and components on the rotor like springs/seals, water pump, oil pan, all rubber/metal seals/gaskets, bearings for stat. gears and rotors
.
50/50 shot of new parts.....
Some housing are new, pulley, flywheel can be used btw but 75% are new roughly, eccentric shaft is usually used but chance of a new one.
Used........
Some housings, pulleys, flywheels, stationary gears are used but with bearings pressed in by yours truely(apperantly I am the only one there that is capable of doing it without messing up), parts in the oil pan(sensor, baffle plate so on), oil pump/chain.
BTW small note, all oil pans are updated to the newer style(metal baffle plate added).
Now to answer the question of whether it will last longer, well a rebuild usually wont laster then a new motor unless the new motor had a odd issue, it has used parts involved not new. Brand new housing all the way through would obviously give it a longer life but thats the way it is. Chances are yours had carbon built up and lacked power, my advice is read up on everything this site offers to keep it running strong. Sythetic is not neccesary, your rebuilt motor was just ran with convetional oil so you can start over, we test them by running them 22 mins and injecting them with some mazda gasket sealant to help them seal better(or whatever it does). I cant tell you what you should or shouldn't do since I work for mazda besides follow the what the manual says to do, just read advice on here and make your own choices. I am no expert, I just build it(bottom of the ladder at mazda usa). BTW managed to beat my record of assembling the motor, built one in 22mins last week lol
best of luck.
06-08-2009, 12:02 PM
#13
Leisy
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Thanks for all the info. I'm going to do things differently this time around. Using a heavier weight, and trying to premix, hopefully that will keep things good. How do you think mine had carbon buildup? Cause of the synthetic?
06-08-2009, 01:15 PM
#14
Carbon build up is probably 80%+ of the reasons why the engines fail. If it lacked power or was hard to start....or even wouldn't start anymore and had low compression its more then likely carbon built up on the springs. Unless it was making a noise or had a coolant leak internal or just plain made a loud noise and shutoff its probably good old carbon in it. Change the oil often and follow everyones advice for the longest life, I would change it every 3k miles personally but thats just what I do on all my cars.
06-16-2009, 01:28 PM
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06-16-2009, 02:02 PM
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06-16-2009, 05:47 PM
#24
Leisy
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I was asking cause I called down there to try and get a rental or something. I was tired of bumming off my parents vehicles for a week. They then told me there is nothing they can do. My car has been in there since May 18th, so I called Mazda customer service. Told them my situation and how they were going to try and charge me like $400 for a intake manifold being cleaned. The guy I talked to in customer service said he would call the DM. The next day I get a call from the dealer telling me the car would be ready on Thursday and they would do me a favor and waive the fee for the manifold.
