How to test fans? Need help.
#1
How to test fans? Need help.
I am having issues related to engine overheating and AC High Pressure reading way above normal, and I am almost positive its related to faulty fans, but I do not know which fans are supposed to do what or how to test them, or if they have a tendency to be faulty...any help for how to troubleshoot would be great, heres my most recent thread regarding the issue https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/ac-high-pressure-reading-too-high-198775/
#3
Thanks for the reply...ive tested all the fuses already, so I know its not a matter of a blown fuse, I still need to check the relays, but I am not sure what i am checking for. Do our cars have any other fans besides the cooling fan and the blower fan for the AC? If one or the other was shot, which one would be the culprit for my High Pressure Readings on my AC being so high?
Also, my car physically blows air through the vents, so what ever fan that is, its working properly. Also, I hear my cooling fan on when I shut the car off, but it still may not be functioning properly, especially in idle situations, causing my car to overheat until i move and can flow air through the radiator.
Also, my car physically blows air through the vents, so what ever fan that is, its working properly. Also, I hear my cooling fan on when I shut the car off, but it still may not be functioning properly, especially in idle situations, causing my car to overheat until i move and can flow air through the radiator.
Last edited by flaps720; 06-07-2010 at 05:25 PM.
#5
well i dont think the overheating is my major problem, I hit traffic going to the shore for a few miles and after crawling for about a half hour, my engine temp gauge got to about a tick away from max and as soon as traffic opened up and i was moving, it dropped to normal. I need to flush the radiator before i make any other assumptions re: the overheating...
...i think i more boggled by the AC system... its blowing warm despite having the proper amount of refrigerant, and the pressure on the high pressure side is over 300 when it should be around 225ish... Compressor kicks on fine, I think there might be an issue with the blower/fan associated with the AC system.
...i think i more boggled by the AC system... its blowing warm despite having the proper amount of refrigerant, and the pressure on the high pressure side is over 300 when it should be around 225ish... Compressor kicks on fine, I think there might be an issue with the blower/fan associated with the AC system.
#6
ok well go drive your car around make sure its warmed up , hit 9k a couple times then pull over and open the hood- are teh fans on?
how did you get to the point of testing the AC pressure? mind you i have no idea what the pressures should be, but 250-260 is normal i think.
how did you get to the point of testing the AC pressure? mind you i have no idea what the pressures should be, but 250-260 is normal i think.
#8
did you follow this procedure to get the correct reading?
2. Start the engine and after it is warmed up, run it at a constant 1,500 rpm.
3. Set the fan speed MAX HI.
4. Turn the A/C switch on.
5. Set to RECIRCULATE mode.
6. Set the temperature control to MAX COLD.
7. Set to VENT mode.
8. Close all the doors and all the windows.
9. Measure the ambient temperature and high- and low- pressure side reading of the SST (49 C061 001A).
10. Verify that the intersection of the pressure reading of the SST (49 C061 001A) and ambient temperature is in the shaded zone
3. Set the fan speed MAX HI.
4. Turn the A/C switch on.
5. Set to RECIRCULATE mode.
6. Set the temperature control to MAX COLD.
7. Set to VENT mode.
8. Close all the doors and all the windows.
9. Measure the ambient temperature and high- and low- pressure side reading of the SST (49 C061 001A).
10. Verify that the intersection of the pressure reading of the SST (49 C061 001A) and ambient temperature is in the shaded zone
#9
My primary cooling fan motor (Drivers Side) is shot and needs to be replaced. The dealership quoted me at $700+ including tax, parts, and labor to replace the one fan motor and fan blade. I'd much rather do this myself but am unsure of how complicated this may be and could not find any threads pertaining to this.
Can I do this myself with a jack and jackstands?
Can I do this myself with a jack and jackstands?
#10
Hi,
I have not tried this, But, If you can get to the Coolant Temp Sensor Wiring PLUG behind water pump and "Unplug it", this should FORCE your Fans on HIGH.....This is what my Series 2 SH Says..
"When a failure occurs in the ECT sensor fans forced on High", called FAIL SAFE Mode..
Now Electric Motors...
I have just been talking about this and have "discovered" a few things..
It appears these S1 Motors are starting to FAIL in large numbers..
IN Series 2 Mazda Updated the Motors, to make them fit you have to also change the shroud and buy some bolts (6).
Now if you buy on-line from a Mazda Dealer you can save heaps..
You can buys TWO Series 2 Motors and a Shroud for not much more than the cost of ONE of your original Motors...about $60 more.
Here is the link to the thread for part numbers and discussion....
You Would be the first to do this and to confirm wiring connections, I am 95% positive
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-easy-mod-colder-ac-42322/page9/
Let me know if you don't follow me???
I have not tried this, But, If you can get to the Coolant Temp Sensor Wiring PLUG behind water pump and "Unplug it", this should FORCE your Fans on HIGH.....This is what my Series 2 SH Says..
"When a failure occurs in the ECT sensor fans forced on High", called FAIL SAFE Mode..
Now Electric Motors...
I have just been talking about this and have "discovered" a few things..
It appears these S1 Motors are starting to FAIL in large numbers..
IN Series 2 Mazda Updated the Motors, to make them fit you have to also change the shroud and buy some bolts (6).
Now if you buy on-line from a Mazda Dealer you can save heaps..
You can buys TWO Series 2 Motors and a Shroud for not much more than the cost of ONE of your original Motors...about $60 more.
Here is the link to the thread for part numbers and discussion....
You Would be the first to do this and to confirm wiring connections, I am 95% positive
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-easy-mod-colder-ac-42322/page9/
Let me know if you don't follow me???
#11
My primary cooling fan motor (Drivers Side) is shot and needs to be replaced. The dealership quoted me at $700+ including tax, parts, and labor to replace the one fan motor and fan blade. I'd much rather do this myself but am unsure of how complicated this may be and could not find any threads pertaining to this.
Can I do this myself with a jack and jackstands?
Can I do this myself with a jack and jackstands?
Just curious...why did they say the FAN BLADES need replacing???...are they damaged??..they do come OFF the motor.
If you have some mechanical competency, I say YES you can do this yourself..
You can buy Two S2 Motors, shroud and 6 bolts from Montgomery's for $220.
ONE of your original motors alone are $159.
#12
they said to do the fan blades because they tend to warp when the motor is seized up and they just bake in the engine bay... which I guess makes sense???
This is something I know I can def. do myself, I am certainly competent enough and I found where in the service manual the procedure is, is just been close to 100 degrees every freakin day and I am not trying to be under my car on a scorching hot driveway for hours pulling the whole radiator out and reassembling it... I already ordered the parts from montgomery mazda and have till when they come in to fig. out what Im gonna do.
Thanks for your help
This is something I know I can def. do myself, I am certainly competent enough and I found where in the service manual the procedure is, is just been close to 100 degrees every freakin day and I am not trying to be under my car on a scorching hot driveway for hours pulling the whole radiator out and reassembling it... I already ordered the parts from montgomery mazda and have till when they come in to fig. out what Im gonna do.
Thanks for your help
#13
they said to do the fan blades because they tend to warp when the motor is seized up and they just bake in the engine bay... which I guess makes sense???
This is something I know I can def. do myself, I am certainly competent enough and I found where in the service manual the procedure is, is just been close to 100 degrees every freakin day and I am not trying to be under my car on a scorching hot driveway for hours pulling the whole radiator out and reassembling it... I already ordered the parts from montgomery mazda and have till when they come in to fig. out what Im gonna do.
Thanks for your help
This is something I know I can def. do myself, I am certainly competent enough and I found where in the service manual the procedure is, is just been close to 100 degrees every freakin day and I am not trying to be under my car on a scorching hot driveway for hours pulling the whole radiator out and reassembling it... I already ordered the parts from montgomery mazda and have till when they come in to fig. out what Im gonna do.
Thanks for your help
It is the opposite where I am Bloody Freezing!..
Fan Blades Warping??MMmm don't know about that one..could be??
Did you order a new Fan Blade then?, and have you decided to stay Series 1 motor parts or try Series 2 motors and Shroud/Cowling???..
I also can not see why you could not replace the 5 blade fan with the 7, making both of them 7 bladers, they are both 300MM in diameter and have the same motor shaft spindle hole of the same size, IMO an extra 2 blades would help cool as it is pushing more air through, might just be slightly noisier..
Yes, Just checked my FWSM, You need to remove radiator?, not having done this, I would have thought after you removed air filter assembly and tray, battery and box, etc you could get to the fans and cowling/shroud assembly...so I guess you can't get to the bolts without removing the radiator??
From what I can see the Fan assembly has 3 locating Lugs at one end and two Bolts at the other for fixing, so remove the two bolts and the assemble should budge.
Good Luck and please let us know the outcome, I have full confidence in you..
#14
why put back the factory fan when you could buy new one
http://www.redlinemotive.com/part-nu...mfs-rx8-04.asp
http://www.redlinemotive.com/part-nu...mfs-rx8-04.asp
#15
why put back the factory fan when you could buy new one
http://www.redlinemotive.com/part-nu...mfs-rx8-04.asp
http://www.redlinemotive.com/part-nu...mfs-rx8-04.asp
One, you have to take their word it will fit without ANY Wiring Modifications..let alone would they work OK with your cars Computer PCM, are they the correct wattage motors, will the OEM relays work OK??
Lastly, if it does fit, can you also re-install your original OEM Battery and Box, Air Filter Box, etc etc..
#16
they said to do the fan blades because they tend to warp when the motor is seized up and they just bake in the engine bay... which I guess makes sense???
This is something I know I can def. do myself, I am certainly competent enough and I found where in the service manual the procedure is, is just been close to 100 degrees every freakin day and I am not trying to be under my car on a scorching hot driveway for hours pulling the whole radiator out and reassembling it... I already ordered the parts from montgomery mazda and have till when they come in to fig. out what Im gonna do.
Thanks for your help
This is something I know I can def. do myself, I am certainly competent enough and I found where in the service manual the procedure is, is just been close to 100 degrees every freakin day and I am not trying to be under my car on a scorching hot driveway for hours pulling the whole radiator out and reassembling it... I already ordered the parts from montgomery mazda and have till when they come in to fig. out what Im gonna do.
Thanks for your help
Yes, I see, you have to remove fans, etc out and under, not out through the Hood..DOH!
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