Installed SR Mortosports flywheel & pullies
#1
Installed SR Mortosports flywheel & pullies
The SR Motorsports light flywheel and pullies are some of the best mods I have installed to date.
I had the 9.75 # flywheel installed last week and I feel that I noticed the improvement immediately. The rpm's spooled up very fast and added to the sports feel of the car. You could argue that the cost does not justify the gains, and at almost a grand including installation you may have a point, but I believe it was worth it.
I had the pullies installed by Mazda on Monday. I have had Mazda do all of my installations with exellent and reliable results. For the reliability you do pay more but you dont have to worry if the job is done right. I definitly felt some gain from the pullies and for sure between the flywheel and pullies. One comment concerning the pullies. The Mazda tech told me that in the instuctions from SR Motorsports they mentioned that the CEL would come on but would go away. I called SR Motorsports myself today to be sure and the tech told me the same info. On his car the CEL remained on for at least 15 driving cycles and in his case for a little over a month. He said that there was not a code produced only the ECU realizing that something was done to the crank and in time would reset itself. I highly recommend these two mods.
I had the 9.75 # flywheel installed last week and I feel that I noticed the improvement immediately. The rpm's spooled up very fast and added to the sports feel of the car. You could argue that the cost does not justify the gains, and at almost a grand including installation you may have a point, but I believe it was worth it.
I had the pullies installed by Mazda on Monday. I have had Mazda do all of my installations with exellent and reliable results. For the reliability you do pay more but you dont have to worry if the job is done right. I definitly felt some gain from the pullies and for sure between the flywheel and pullies. One comment concerning the pullies. The Mazda tech told me that in the instuctions from SR Motorsports they mentioned that the CEL would come on but would go away. I called SR Motorsports myself today to be sure and the tech told me the same info. On his car the CEL remained on for at least 15 driving cycles and in his case for a little over a month. He said that there was not a code produced only the ECU realizing that something was done to the crank and in time would reset itself. I highly recommend these two mods.
#3
"This pulley kit replaces the alternator, the water pump pulley and the main pulley. They are designed to free up horsepower by underdriving the crank shaft pulley, alternator and the water pump to keep down the chance of cavatation."
#8
There are two categories of aftermarket pullys to consider. Underdriven or Lightened. Two things they both share; added H/P, and they're usually machined from aluminum. Underdriven pulleys are prone to charging and drivability problems from being overly under driven, but they do increase available H/P because they are smaller and the change in "gearing" reduces friction/stress on the crank. Lightened pullys are built to stock specs for drivability but machined to remove as much as material as possible for added performance.
In some cases dyno numbers can proove the underdriven produce more H/P (we're talking like 1, mabey 2), so one must decide which type to purchace for thier own "project" or daily driver.
BTW, I applaud you for stepping out on the limb and doing something different. Keep up the good work.
In some cases dyno numbers can proove the underdriven produce more H/P (we're talking like 1, mabey 2), so one must decide which type to purchace for thier own "project" or daily driver.
BTW, I applaud you for stepping out on the limb and doing something different. Keep up the good work.
#11
Not only are the pulleys lighter than stock, they are also much quieter. Instructions? Luck to get 'em. They didn't come with mine but I didn't need them anyway. I like the SR line of stuff.
Charles
Charles
#12
Charles
How long before your CEL went out. The light stays on and blinks when I hit about 6K rpm and stops blinking but still stays on. The tech at SR Motorsports told me his light was on for about 1 1/2 months. The quality and appearence seem very good
How long before your CEL went out. The light stays on and blinks when I hit about 6K rpm and stops blinking but still stays on. The tech at SR Motorsports told me his light was on for about 1 1/2 months. The quality and appearence seem very good
#13
You know.. I am having a problem wiht my SR Motorsports flywheel and ACT clutch assembly.. at first I didnt think it was a problem but now I think it's getting worse...
The problem I am having is that there is this terrible grinding noise between 2500 and 3000 rpm..
At first I didnt think it effected performance but now it does...
I am considering taking it to another shop to have them look at it.. The guy from SR Motorsports said that they havent had any complaints about this at all from the kit...
Lucky me
I'll post if they do find something....
thankx...
The problem I am having is that there is this terrible grinding noise between 2500 and 3000 rpm..
At first I didnt think it effected performance but now it does...
I am considering taking it to another shop to have them look at it.. The guy from SR Motorsports said that they havent had any complaints about this at all from the kit...
Lucky me
I'll post if they do find something....
thankx...
#15
Since I have replaced many parts on my 8 I have several issues, most of which I accept as natural. First, my CEL light is always on. I took it to the dealer early on(after I replaced the intake) and they told me it was a mis-fire code and cleared it but the light came back. Second, since NVH issues are primary in the design of a powertrain, when we begin changing parts the dynamics change and thus the NVH balance is upset. When we change parts previously unheard noises will now be evident. When I changed my pulleys I noticed some other noises which were masked by the pulley noise. Then, when I changed my flywheel I noticed the afore-mentioned "grinding" in the engine. I also noticed that the noise changes relative to slight changes in the load placed on the engine. I tend to think the grinding might be the meshing ot the e-shaft gears and the stationary gears on the rotors. I also suspect that some of us think these noises are spark knock, but I am no seasoned pro on that. I would p.m. Mazdamaniac or Snap-on because they seem to have tremendous knowledge on the rotary, in general, and the RX-8 to be specific.
A note about the CEL; all the light does is alert the driver that the sensors detect conditions that it does not expect to see. It is a reactive system in that the light is a tattle-tale, of sorts, and has no control over the ECU. My light has been on for 6 months and I have learned to ignore it. In my next trip to the dealer I'll ask them to check out the CEL and I'll discuss it with them at that point. My dealer is well aware of my mods and we have agreed to reasonably accomodate my mods within the warranty parameters. In other words, they will help me out if the need arises.
Charles
A note about the CEL; all the light does is alert the driver that the sensors detect conditions that it does not expect to see. It is a reactive system in that the light is a tattle-tale, of sorts, and has no control over the ECU. My light has been on for 6 months and I have learned to ignore it. In my next trip to the dealer I'll ask them to check out the CEL and I'll discuss it with them at that point. My dealer is well aware of my mods and we have agreed to reasonably accomodate my mods within the warranty parameters. In other words, they will help me out if the need arises.
Charles
#16
My CEL was on for 1 week constantly except when I hit 6K RPM's which is all the time and then the light would flash for a bit and go back to staying on constantly.
I disconnected my neg. battery cable today to reset ECU, and after I reinstalled cable the CEL has not come on since. According to SR Motorsports even though the light was on, there was no code associated with it, the light just bothered me.
Has anyone bought the SR Motorsports high flow cat and midpipe, and if so are you happy with it and how much addtional noise does it generate ?
I disconnected my neg. battery cable today to reset ECU, and after I reinstalled cable the CEL has not come on since. According to SR Motorsports even though the light was on, there was no code associated with it, the light just bothered me.
Has anyone bought the SR Motorsports high flow cat and midpipe, and if so are you happy with it and how much addtional noise does it generate ?
#17
RX8FOREAL, did you reset your stock ECU after clearing the code by disconnecting the battery?
I had the CEL when I installed my CZ stage 1. I worked on it for a few days but the CEL would always come on after about 1 or 2 days of driving. I then cleared the codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable for an hour, installed the CZ stage 1, turned engine on, cleared DSC message by turning wheel all the way right then all the way left, immediately turned the engine off, turned the key to ACC, did the 20 brake tap test to clear the ECU, and confirmed my oil needle did the sweep. Since then I have been driving for about a week with no CEL.
I know the CZ stage 1 and the pullies are completely different but I think that by resetting the ECU to stock (by doing the 20 brake taps) helps the ECU to "learn," with the car already modified. I had cleared the ECU about 4 times by just disconnecting the battery but I would always get the CEL after a couple of days. Only after I disconnected the battery AND reset the ECU did I get the CEL to stay off.
Just a suggestion. You might want to try it if your CEL comes on again. I would be interested to know if this prevents you from getting the CEL.
I had the CEL when I installed my CZ stage 1. I worked on it for a few days but the CEL would always come on after about 1 or 2 days of driving. I then cleared the codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable for an hour, installed the CZ stage 1, turned engine on, cleared DSC message by turning wheel all the way right then all the way left, immediately turned the engine off, turned the key to ACC, did the 20 brake tap test to clear the ECU, and confirmed my oil needle did the sweep. Since then I have been driving for about a week with no CEL.
I know the CZ stage 1 and the pullies are completely different but I think that by resetting the ECU to stock (by doing the 20 brake taps) helps the ECU to "learn," with the car already modified. I had cleared the ECU about 4 times by just disconnecting the battery but I would always get the CEL after a couple of days. Only after I disconnected the battery AND reset the ECU did I get the CEL to stay off.
Just a suggestion. You might want to try it if your CEL comes on again. I would be interested to know if this prevents you from getting the CEL.
#18
I'ts always nice to hook up with a dealer that is willing to look past the mods and help out. I had to go to another dealership that I didn't purchace the 8 from to get the kind of treatment I was looking for.
#19
So, Mike, my point is correct on the dealership support? If we look around we'll find some dealers who are enthusiasts, themselves, and will reasonably help us re: warranty issues? I consider myself lucky in that regard but I was also up front with my salesperson and the service department where I bought my 8. In addition, I return the favor by keeping tham posted on things I learn here and in the auto publications. I think the two-way street is helpful for all of us.
Charles
Charles
#20
I will join in and give some props to my dealerships service manager, Chuck of Wayne, NJ Mazda. He as well as entire service center has been very supportive of my modifications to date and have been interested in furture mods. I am still trying to determine what my next mod will be.
#23
Charles
Mods in order of installation;
RB - Sway bars - front & rear
RB - Springs
K&N - Intake
CP Racing - Front strut bar
JIC - Rear strut bar
SR Motorsports - flywheel & pullies
Sound system
Audiobahn 200 wat bass tube
Audiobahn rear 6 X 9 speakers
Memphis Audio 6 1/2 " front doors
Memphis Audio 1" tweeters - doors
Memphis Audio Amp
I am not sure what to do next, high flow cat or JIC exhaust system, but not both.
Dennis
Mods in order of installation;
RB - Sway bars - front & rear
RB - Springs
K&N - Intake
CP Racing - Front strut bar
JIC - Rear strut bar
SR Motorsports - flywheel & pullies
Sound system
Audiobahn 200 wat bass tube
Audiobahn rear 6 X 9 speakers
Memphis Audio 6 1/2 " front doors
Memphis Audio 1" tweeters - doors
Memphis Audio Amp
I am not sure what to do next, high flow cat or JIC exhaust system, but not both.
Dennis
#25
would putting the underdrive pulleys (which i believe they all are) on mess up your cooling i see they replace the water pump? I've never done this and was wondering befor i attempted if it woudl mess up my cooling. I am curently in a very hot area and woudl hate to lessen my colling capabilities.