Share your CZ Maps
#1
Mazda Mole
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Share your CZ Maps
I thought I'll start another thread to share CZ Maps. That way they won't be lost in a huge thread. Try to keep this thread to only posting your maps. Discuss in other threads.
I'll start with my "Beta Map V1"
I'm happy with this map because it seems to work really well. My CanScan readings indicate that the AFR is somewhat flat around 13.5. I am somewhat too lean around the 7500+ RPM range. A "Beta Map V2" is in the works to remedy this problem.
Next goal is to do a "Gamma Map" which takes the AFR to 13.9. This should be easier now I have a true baseline to start.
Note that I modified the Throttle Column (the one in Blue) in the AFR Map. It goes 90, 88, 84, 80 75,70..... I did this because when I logged with eManage my throttle never went beyond 88% even though my CanScan says it's 100%. Someone pointed this out to the board so I incorporated that info. I also changed the RPM range since I noticed that in my car, everything below 5600 RPM was fine.
Xyntax also saw that zeroing out the low voltage setting (2.90 or 3.00) in the ignition map helps eliminate advance from creeping into the low RPM ranges. My only change was that I didn't zero out the whole row, only the first cell. Thanks Xyntax for that observation.
I started fresh with the AFR map, but use the base CZ ignition map to start. The only change I incorporated into the CZ ignition map was to eliminate the zeros in the 6000 RPM range. I put in 5's and 4's. Feels pretty good.
EDIT: Forgot to add: "Results may vary from car to car. Previous experience indicate that there is no such thing as the one perfect map. Tuning the AFR and Ignition Maps to your car's behavior will yield best results." Just in case anyone is confused
I'll start with my "Beta Map V1"
I'm happy with this map because it seems to work really well. My CanScan readings indicate that the AFR is somewhat flat around 13.5. I am somewhat too lean around the 7500+ RPM range. A "Beta Map V2" is in the works to remedy this problem.
Next goal is to do a "Gamma Map" which takes the AFR to 13.9. This should be easier now I have a true baseline to start.
Note that I modified the Throttle Column (the one in Blue) in the AFR Map. It goes 90, 88, 84, 80 75,70..... I did this because when I logged with eManage my throttle never went beyond 88% even though my CanScan says it's 100%. Someone pointed this out to the board so I incorporated that info. I also changed the RPM range since I noticed that in my car, everything below 5600 RPM was fine.
Xyntax also saw that zeroing out the low voltage setting (2.90 or 3.00) in the ignition map helps eliminate advance from creeping into the low RPM ranges. My only change was that I didn't zero out the whole row, only the first cell. Thanks Xyntax for that observation.
I started fresh with the AFR map, but use the base CZ ignition map to start. The only change I incorporated into the CZ ignition map was to eliminate the zeros in the 6000 RPM range. I put in 5's and 4's. Feels pretty good.
EDIT: Forgot to add: "Results may vary from car to car. Previous experience indicate that there is no such thing as the one perfect map. Tuning the AFR and Ignition Maps to your car's behavior will yield best results." Just in case anyone is confused
![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by Magic8; 10-04-2004 at 08:07 PM.
#2
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what the helll...
My ignition map looks exactly like yours except the column on the left (maf ?) goes from 3.0-0 instead of 4.05-> 3.0
Did you change that yourself or is mine really screwed up? I haven't actually hooked my unit up to run it yet and this is really making wonder about things....
My ignition map looks exactly like yours except the column on the left (maf ?) goes from 3.0-0 instead of 4.05-> 3.0
Did you change that yourself or is mine really screwed up? I haven't actually hooked my unit up to run it yet and this is really making wonder about things....
#3
Mazda Mole
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Originally Posted by pr0ber
what the helll...
My ignition map looks exactly like yours except the column on the left (maf ?) goes from 3.0-0 instead of 4.05-> 3.0
Did you change that yourself or is mine really screwed up? I haven't actually hooked my unit up to run it yet and this is really making wonder about things....
My ignition map looks exactly like yours except the column on the left (maf ?) goes from 3.0-0 instead of 4.05-> 3.0
Did you change that yourself or is mine really screwed up? I haven't actually hooked my unit up to run it yet and this is really making wonder about things....
![Cool](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/cool.gif)
Change it to 3.0 to 4.05, and make sure you are using airflow voltages. If you ever log with eManage you will see that most of the time you want igniton advance to occur over 3.0 V. Any lower then you will do strange things to the ignition like advancing ignition at low RPM and low airflow. Anyone can give a more concrete answer?
Jason - do you have the base Map? Mine got scrambled (That's why I went with a new AFR Map.) Also I thought the Stage II was targeting 13.9 AFR that's why I picked 13.9..
#5
Mazda Mole
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Jason,
From my logs I didn't find any problems with the my ratio below 5500 - 5600 RPM. I really didn't see the need to do anything at point below that range. The only reason I had values in the 5000 and 5200 rpm column was to smooth out the interpolation until it hit 5800 RPM where I really wanted it change the AFR. Personally I think this approach helped.
That spike in the AFR (I'm assuming when you say rich you meant lean - high AFR = lean mix) is interesting. BTW I always changes the column I want to affect and the two columns around it. I want to ensure that the interpolation is smooth.
Hope I make sense :p
From my logs I didn't find any problems with the my ratio below 5500 - 5600 RPM. I really didn't see the need to do anything at point below that range. The only reason I had values in the 5000 and 5200 rpm column was to smooth out the interpolation until it hit 5800 RPM where I really wanted it change the AFR. Personally I think this approach helped.
That spike in the AFR (I'm assuming when you say rich you meant lean - high AFR = lean mix) is interesting. BTW I always changes the column I want to affect and the two columns around it. I want to ensure that the interpolation is smooth.
Hope I make sense :p
#6
Mazda Mole
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Looks like you're close to the target in the 7000+ RPM range. The 6000 to 7000 always gave me problems. I wonder if we're fighting the SDAIS?
How does it feel?
BTW you should log using the eManage to see what eManage see your WOT as. In my case eManage read WOT as 88%, not 100%. This made a huge difference in the tuning. If you notice in the blue column in my AFR Map my throttle settings maxes out at 90% and go from there 88, 84, 80,75, 70, etc.
In your case, for instance, if you use 0 at 90% and 15 at 100%, at 95% it will interpolate to 7.5% change.
How does it feel?
BTW you should log using the eManage to see what eManage see your WOT as. In my case eManage read WOT as 88%, not 100%. This made a huge difference in the tuning. If you notice in the blue column in my AFR Map my throttle settings maxes out at 90% and go from there 88, 84, 80,75, 70, etc.
In your case, for instance, if you use 0 at 90% and 15 at 100%, at 95% it will interpolate to 7.5% change.
Last edited by Magic8; 10-04-2004 at 08:14 PM.
#8
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Your e-manage should read 0-100% in the throttle on the A/F Map. You need to reset your throttle position setting if it doesn't...........Make sure that you confirm it to close or it won't save it. Most of the A/F on my car is good at partial throttle( 14.6ish)...I have tuned it from 50% a bit, and much more at WOT and from 5-9K. I have much more advance dialed in up to 12degrees. Car seems OK with it as long as I use good fuel.
#9
Mazda Mole
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Originally Posted by dannobre
Your e-manage should read 0-100% in the throttle on the A/F Map. You need to reset your throttle position setting if it doesn't.
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#10
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The e-manage should read 100% when calibrated. You must close the parameters window by hiting " confirm" to save the setting before you close the program
CZ will read from 12-78 for values .......convert to 100% with (x-12)*1.5
CZ will read from 12-78 for values .......convert to 100% with (x-12)*1.5
Last edited by dannobre; 10-05-2004 at 09:29 AM.
#12
Mazda Mole
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If it came like that from CZ, is this why some people are getting horrible results with the CZ? hmmmm................Folks make sure your scale is something like 3.0V - 4.05V
#14
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I don't get what's the use of the 0 to 1.0 V adjustments? What good will that do? At idle I'm already at 1.0+ V, so when will I ever hit something that low when I am driving?
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Last edited by Magic8; 10-05-2004 at 09:51 PM.
#17
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Personally if your not running full RPM I'd do that. It's super easy to do and makes tuning the map a little easier me thinks :D
But then again my maps are still about 90% un-modified still so what do I know :D :D :D
But then again my maps are still about 90% un-modified still so what do I know :D :D :D
#19
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Yeah, what dan said. The old board is a little harder since you have to replace 2 of the resistors, and the RPM cable isnt defined, but that pic says it all really :D
If you dont do the electronics thing, if yer ever in Miami/Ft Lauderdale let me know and I can do it in 5 minutes.
If you dont do the electronics thing, if yer ever in Miami/Ft Lauderdale let me know and I can do it in 5 minutes.
#20
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I do the electronics things, but the picture doesn't show what I need to connect, it only shows the location of the half rpm and full rpm points... could someone point out what needs to be connected there?
Thanks,
Slavearm
Thanks,
Slavearm
#21
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It's nice to have full RPM instead of half, but I wouldn't recommend it to those that don't have problems looking at half RPMs. It wouldn't improve anything at all. Anyone not so experienced in messing with board tweaking shouldn't risk it. You'd end up frying your unit (WCS).
#22
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1. open the unit
2. remove the two screws holding the ignition board to the chassis
3. locate the brown wire soldered to the half rpm output point
4. heat the solder from the BOTTOM of the board while gently pulling on the brown wire, it will come free.
5. reroute the wire to the full rpm output pad, be sure a little stick through the bottom of the PCB, if it doesnt, strip a bit off and re tin the wire.
6. solder the brown wire from the bottom to the appropriate pad, use an exacto knife to isolate the solder from any neighboring pads
7. repeate steps 1 and 2 in reverse, being sure no wires get in the way of closing the box
done!
2. remove the two screws holding the ignition board to the chassis
3. locate the brown wire soldered to the half rpm output point
4. heat the solder from the BOTTOM of the board while gently pulling on the brown wire, it will come free.
5. reroute the wire to the full rpm output pad, be sure a little stick through the bottom of the PCB, if it doesnt, strip a bit off and re tin the wire.
6. solder the brown wire from the bottom to the appropriate pad, use an exacto knife to isolate the solder from any neighboring pads
7. repeate steps 1 and 2 in reverse, being sure no wires get in the way of closing the box
done!
#24
Mazda Mole
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I was going to comment on that. I don't remember seeing more agressive AFR map
. The Stage 1.1 I thought was the combination of the Stage 1 and 2
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#25
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stage 2 was always suppose to be more aggressive and require a high temp cat or midpipe.
Looking at these maps I'm glad I'm just starting from scratch... gee, i wonder if everyone is pinging because the damn map is adding 5 degrees of advance when the cars in closed loop aka 14.7 a/f !!!!
Looking at these maps I'm glad I'm just starting from scratch... gee, i wonder if everyone is pinging because the damn map is adding 5 degrees of advance when the cars in closed loop aka 14.7 a/f !!!!