Mazdaspeed Struts & Springs
#2
The MS Shocks & springs set are really nice. Lowers you car anywhere from .75" to 1.25" I would recommend that you get them together as some people that have done just the MS springs on stock shocks have gotten some really funny handling behavior.
#3
Originally Posted by Fanman
I would recommend that you get them together as some people that have done just the MS springs on stock shocks have gotten some really funny handling behavior.
Something to do with the spring rates of the MS springs not matching up with the standard shocks I believe.
If you want to keep the stock shocks and lower the car, best to go with Racing Beat, H&R and Eibachs IMO.
#4
By far one of the cheapest and best upgrades that you can do, but Nojooc is right do both the shocks and springs. Its like night and day between the stock and the MS, and the ride isn't too much rougher.
#6
the springs and shocks won't need bushings, you will need to cut your bump stops though.
now, the MS sways don't come with bushings, like the Racing Beat sways, so you will need to order some universal 27mm from energy suspension if you want them, they aren't required, I'm running without them now and its fine, I'm get some for the front just b/c i want the sharpest steering possible.
now, the MS sways don't come with bushings, like the Racing Beat sways, so you will need to order some universal 27mm from energy suspension if you want them, they aren't required, I'm running without them now and its fine, I'm get some for the front just b/c i want the sharpest steering possible.
#7
For the price I'd go with some sort of coilover setup. That way you have the ability to change your set up depending on what you are doing.
Factory type performance stuff is usually way overpriced too.
Factory type performance stuff is usually way overpriced too.
#8
Well, the Mazdaspeed springs and shocks are priced quite wel IMO, given the rave reviews they have gotten, for someone who doesn't want to tune the suspension themselves, $650 is pretty good for the spring/shock combo. Now the sways are overpriced, I know I bought them, but I wanted to have a matched system. $1200 for matching springs/shocks/sways is a pretty good deal.
#10
Yes, do not get the springs without the shocks. I went with the springs first; one week later I had my shocks being shipped to me. Springs with stock shocks are way too harsh. The MS springs have one of the greatest spring rate increase of all the shocks. Stock shocks cannot handle them.
If you want to just get springs, I would say Racing Beat. Good rep within the Mazda community.
If you want to just get springs, I would say Racing Beat. Good rep within the Mazda community.
#11
Originally Posted by 310Guy
Yes, do not get the springs without the shocks. I went with the springs first; one week later I had my shocks being shipped to me. Springs with stock shocks are way too harsh. The MS springs have one of the greatest spring rate increase of all the shocks. Stock shocks cannot handle them.
If you want to just get springs, I would say Racing Beat. Good rep within the Mazda community.
If you want to just get springs, I would say Racing Beat. Good rep within the Mazda community.
Generally Mazdaspeed does not make their equipment that aggressive...
Last edited by HorsepowerFreaks; 10-26-2004 at 12:04 PM.
#12
Originally Posted by HorsepowerFreaks
What are the spring rates of the RB and MS compared to stock? I can't imagine it being that different.
Generally Mazdaspeed does not make their equipment that aggressive...
Generally Mazdaspeed does not make their equipment that aggressive...
Stock RX8 6spd
F 155.61 lb/in
R 112.86 lb/in
Stock RX8 Automatic
F 144.21 lb/in
R 101.46 lb/in
Mazdaspeed Spring
F 280 lb/in
R 190.4 lb/in
Racing Beat
F 187 lb/in (calculated 20% Stiffer than Stock)
R 136 lb/in (calculated 20% Stiffer than Stock)
#15
Here's a stupid question. The spring rates are given in lb/in, which I am guessing is the force required to compress the springs, right?
If that is the case, the MS springs are about 75% stiffer then the stock Rx8 springs (using the fronts as an example). Wouldn't a car with these spring give an extremely bumpy ride?
If that is the case, the MS springs are about 75% stiffer then the stock Rx8 springs (using the fronts as an example). Wouldn't a car with these spring give an extremely bumpy ride?
#17
Ok, well I have another question. Why do I always see "they lower the car anywhere from 0.75" to 1.25""? Do I have controller over the amount I choose to lower my car with the MS shocks and springs? Why does it differ so much? Thanks in advance!
#18
From what I have seen... most off the shelf springs you can buy (for any vehicle) seem to be around 20-30% 'stiffer' than stock. Also keep in mind linear and progressive ratings....
As for smoothrx8's question about height.... Usually that is due to the different weights of different trim levels of the vehicle. They may also build a little margin so people won't be expecting something exact.
As for smoothrx8's question about height.... Usually that is due to the different weights of different trim levels of the vehicle. They may also build a little margin so people won't be expecting something exact.
#19
I have the MS shocks, springs, and sways. It is like driving a new car! My question is, my personal mechanic, (non-stealership), tightened everything while the car was up on the lift. I heard that something, not knowing what, should be tightened after the car is lowered to the ground. Anybody know this? Or, am I OK with the way he did it.
#20
Nem,
If the car appears evenly lowered and your not feeling or hearing anything funny, your probably ok. If you want to be safe and make sure, you could just jack the front and rear ends up, break the bolts "Only" on the upper a-arm and the lower shock nut in front (lower shock nut and control arm in back), then retighten them by hand to a good hand tight, put the wheels back on, then let the car settle for about 30 minutes. after that, simply turn the steering wheel to move the front wheels out of your way to torque down to spec the a-arm & stock bolts in front and the shock bolt and lower control arm in the rear. (the rear is pretty easy to reach on the ground)
If the car appears evenly lowered and your not feeling or hearing anything funny, your probably ok. If you want to be safe and make sure, you could just jack the front and rear ends up, break the bolts "Only" on the upper a-arm and the lower shock nut in front (lower shock nut and control arm in back), then retighten them by hand to a good hand tight, put the wheels back on, then let the car settle for about 30 minutes. after that, simply turn the steering wheel to move the front wheels out of your way to torque down to spec the a-arm & stock bolts in front and the shock bolt and lower control arm in the rear. (the rear is pretty easy to reach on the ground)
#21
Originally Posted by brillo
...If the car appears evenly lowered and your not feeling or hearing anything funny, your probably ok....
#22
can't see how that would happen, I would maybe run your car by the shop that did your tires and see if they can spot your problem. How do you like the ride on the MS? with my MS sways it still feels stock, my buddies Racing Beat setup actually rode better than stock I thought. Have you done any road trips with it? How is it over long distances?
#23
The ride is awesome - my co-worker says it now handles better than his '91 911, and after getting a chance to drive the 911 I have to agree. As for long rides, how about Washington to Sevenstock and back this year? The car felt great the whole way, and did not wear on me like I thought it might. I highly recommend this setup for the 8.