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Camber problem after lowering 8?

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Old 11-12-2004, 02:20 AM
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Question Camber problem after lowering 8?

Just a general question for people who have lowered the 8.

On my old car I lowered it about 2 inch and after about 2 years, noticed the inside part of the tires wearing out first. My question is would this also happen to the 8 once it's lowered?

I've been thinking about getting lowering springs for mine but not really sure if I'm going to get the same "camber" problems as with my old car or is the 8 a bit more sophisticated that it should be fine lowering it 2 inch.
Old 11-12-2004, 02:31 AM
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Dropping your car followed by a good wheel alignment should help alleviate some of these cambering issues.

However, dropping your car 2 inches is bound to give you too much negative camber that even a good wheel alignment won't be able to fix.

Hondas which have double wishbone suspension seem to suffer the most negative camber after excessive lowering due to the inherent nature of the suspension setup.

The 8 should camber out slightly with a mild lowering, but lowering it 2" is a bit much.
You'll end up getting funny handling characteristics.
Old 11-12-2004, 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by nojooc
The 8 should camber out slightly with a mild lowering, but lowering it 2" is a bit much.
You'll end up getting funny handling characteristics.

Thanks, I had a feeling the 8 would have the same problem.

There in lies my delima. To lower or not to lower, that is the question...

If I lowered it 2 inches, would a camber correction kit help alleviate the wearing on the inside of the tires?
Old 11-12-2004, 03:42 AM
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First of all, you need to ask yourself why you want to lower it 2"?

Is it for cosmetic purposes?
If so, you trade off handling performance for style over substance and pay the price with increased risk of premature tyre wear.

Is it due to a misguided belief your car will handle better?
Maybe it will, but the extra money spent over the next few years replacing tyres is better spent on lowering it 1-1.5" and swaybars. Plus your car will be more comfortable on bumpy roads and you don't risk damaging the undercarriage.
Old 11-12-2004, 09:48 AM
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[QUOTE=nojooc]However, dropping your car 2 inches is bound to give you too much negative camber that even a good wheel alignment won't be able to fix./QUOTE]

My 8 was dropped 1 3/4 inches and there was enough camber adjustment to get it back to factory specs. I don't know why people are claiming there isn't enough adjustment.
Old 11-12-2004, 09:56 AM
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negative camber on the 8 will equal to a little more oversteer.. =)
Old 11-12-2004, 10:15 AM
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Why are you lowering it 2"? Is this just for looks? Anytime you lower a car you will have to have the car aligned, be it an RX8 or a chevette. Find a good reputable shop in your area and have them do the alignment. If there is still accessive negative camber after your drop and alignment, you may have to get a camber adjustment kit or you'll wear out your tires pretty quick.
Old 11-12-2004, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Dark8
My 8 was dropped 1 3/4 inches and there was enough camber adjustment to get it back to factory specs. I don't know why people are claiming there isn't enough adjustment.
I have a question to add here, I have the MS suspension shocks, springs, and sways. It lowered it about 1". I was told that I did not need an alignment, was this wrong? Should I have it aligned? Also, I don't think my wheel gap is the same on the front as the back. The installer tightened everything with the car up on the lift. I was told that if the car appears evenly lowered and your not feeling or hearing anything funny, your probably ok. If you want to be safe and make sure, you could just jack the front and rear ends up, break the bolts "Only" on the upper a-arm and the lower shock nut in front (lower shock nut and control arm in back), then retighten them by hand to a good hand tight, put the wheels back on, then let the car settle for about 30 minutes. after that, simply turn the steering wheel to move the front wheels out of your way to torque down to spec the a-arm & stock bolts in front and the shock bolt and lower control arm in the rear. (the rear is pretty easy to reach on the ground).

What should I do? Loosen, retighten, and then align?
Old 11-12-2004, 11:54 AM
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I would at least get the toe aligned. My toe changed almost a full degree on a 1 3/4" drop. Excess toe either neg. or pos. will wear your tires quickly.
Old 11-12-2004, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Dark8
My 8 was dropped 1 3/4 inches and there was enough camber adjustment to get it back to factory specs. I don't know why people are claiming there isn't enough adjustment.
There lies the problem.... have you seen the tolerance levels for the factory specs?
Old 11-12-2004, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemesis8
I have a question to add here, I have the MS suspension shocks, springs, and sways. It lowered it about 1". I was told that I did not need an alignment, was this wrong? Should I have it aligned? Also, I don't think my wheel gap is the same on the front as the back. The installer tightened everything with the car up on the lift. I was told that if the car appears evenly lowered and your not feeling or hearing anything funny, your probably ok. If you want to be safe and make sure, you could just jack the front and rear ends up, break the bolts "Only" on the upper a-arm and the lower shock nut in front (lower shock nut and control arm in back), then retighten them by hand to a good hand tight, put the wheels back on, then let the car settle for about 30 minutes. after that, simply turn the steering wheel to move the front wheels out of your way to torque down to spec the a-arm & stock bolts in front and the shock bolt and lower control arm in the rear. (the rear is pretty easy to reach on the ground).

What should I do? Loosen, retighten, and then align?

I'm sure if you used a reputable shop to install your MS suspension bits, they torqued all the bolts to spec. you should definately have a 4 wheel alignment done, and the fact that they told you that you didn't need an alignment makes me question the shop.

Anytime you lower (or raise) your car the camber will be off. I'd get it to an alignment shop soon.
Old 11-12-2004, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by nojooc
First of all, you need to ask yourself why you want to lower it 2"?

It was just a question. With all the tire problems I had with my last car after lowering it between 1"-1 1/2", there's no way I'd go to 2".

Originally Posted by Nemesis8
Also, I don't think my wheel gap is the same on the front as the back.
Funny, I was looking at mine today and also notice the wheel gap isn't even although I haven't lowered my 8 yet. On the front tires, I could almost fit my whole fist while in the back tires, I could only fit two fingers (index and middle).

Is this normal or should I bring it up to the dealer and I'm being serious here cause I know I'm leaving myself open for some jokes... :D
Old 11-12-2004, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ssjelite23
On the front tires, I could almost fit my whole fist while in the back tires, I could only fit two fingers (index and middle).

Is this normal or should I bring it up to the dealer and I'm being serious here cause I know I'm leaving myself open for some jokes... :D

Can't help myself, but, the front always is more "accomodating" than the back. :D

Seriously, the difference shouldn't be that much, the front gap is larger but it shouldn't be to the point where you can insert your whole fist.

Are you measuring on a level surface?

Last edited by nojooc; 11-12-2004 at 09:20 PM.
Old 11-12-2004, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nojooc
Can't help myself, but, the front always is more "accomodating" than the back. :D


Are you measuring on a level surface?
hehehe, I'm more of a "front" person myself. Anyway, yeah, it was pretty level. I'll have to check again tonight after I get out of work cause the parking lot is pretty level.

If I'm on a level surface and the difference between the front and back gaps are still significant, what could it be? Should I bring it up to the dealer's attention?

The 8 drive's fine on smooth surfaces, the only thing I've noticed is a bit more "hopping" of both the front and back tires on bumpy roads or freeways.
Old 11-12-2004, 10:32 PM
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Get it checked out if it's a huge difference front and back.
Old 11-12-2004, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nojooc
There lies the problem.... have you seen the tolerance levels for the factory specs?
Well, first of all you go to a shop that will do "race" alignments and they set it to what you tell them. If you go to your local Firestone or such shop they will set it somewhere within the factory specs. You get what you pay for.
Old 11-13-2004, 09:34 AM
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i usually allow 1/4" higher for the front because of the engine, it wont apply to mid engine cars though.
whenever there is a change in height, it is always recommended to have wheel alignment done.
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