Taka, the screen has a pretty decent rake on it......I'd just make sure the sensor has a clear screen directly above it. That way the midday summer sun will not be obscured and that is the time of day and year you will most need your aircond.

As you drive around at other times of the day the sensor will be cast in shade by your roof and "A" pillar anyway. I wouldn't worry unless the label was right over the sensor, the more clearance the better though, obviously.

Gomez.

 

And if the thumbwheel is at max, the NAV Screen goes bright white and STAYS that way and will not go to night time background. Very bright (and distracting) while driving at night. Thought the NAV was broken :o

 

And it we had NAV screens in the Australian Forum we might consider moving to the top of the list!!

No worries - no harm done. It is part of the Australian way to have a friendly dig when someone makes a genuine mistake. My American friends do it as well, so we are not alone.

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

Thanks to DMRH... warm your engine up before driving it like you stole it...
https://www.rx8club.com/australia-new-zealand-forum-37/warm-up-your-engines-else-41717/

 

Ok i have to admit I've got one.

Installing hymee'd "protection" i discovered that i did indeed have headlight squirters.

It took a reasonable amount of reading to figure out how to work them................then about 2 minutes slapping the missus who is rolling about on the garage floor laughing at how silly they looked and decide that that is about 250 grams too much excess weight simply for the laughs. (and i hate for them to go off anywhere someone else might see me!)

PS. Laughing is true, slapping is not, I'm not suicidal.

 

First post.

Picking up my RX8 here in Perth tomorrow morning. Winning Blue. Can't wait!!

Test drove the WRX WRP10 and had a look at the EVO and they did nothing for me, but after driving the RX8 I couldn't keep the smile off my face I imagine it needs to be treated gently for the first 1000 kays, yeah?

Cheers

 

Takahashi,

How about adding a list of "reset" stuff you can do, like stomping the brake 20 times to reset the learning computer? Hmmm stuff like that? Or is it in the manual???

 

I only know of a ECU reset that you can do by stomping the brake while the ignition is at "ON" position. Positive result is indicated by a right sweep of the oil pressure gauge.

Don't know how good it is. Good that ECU is learning about your driving again.

 

just another little observation, re, Fuel type....
I have owned rotaries for the past 8 Yrs! (and no the rotary wasn't released in 2003, more like 1969)

anyway, after 300,000 Km on a 13B 6 port engine (similar to a renisis except for rotor internal structure, and exhaust port location) I have Noticed NO increase in performance by Using Premium fuel. Lower octane fuel wont cause Knocking, dont forget, adding Oil to the fuel mix lowers octane anyway. I usually run standard unleaded. the neat little thing about a rotary engine is the Combustion chamber constantly changes shape and size! it expans at an exponential rate, wheras piston engines dont,
so a slower buring fuel will actually give a little more torque and better economy, not to mention lighter on the hip pocket!

and re Oil, make sure you replace the oil FILTER! on a regular basis!! its no good having clean oil in the engine if the filter is clogged and full of dirty oil!

 

I thought stomping on the brake 20 times was the way to check which ECU flash you had (in the states). AFAIK, the only way to reset the ECU is to get it re-flashed, or to disconnect the battery (read the manual if you do this though, 'cause you need to do the PCM reset procedure with the steering wheel).

 

You stomp on the brake pedal to erase the keep alive memory. The needle sweep confirms that it occured. The sweep was added in the G flash in australia and in the L flash in the US so it was one way to check if you had an old or new flash.

It is mentioned in this TSB: http://www.finishlineperformance.com...7-04-1298b.pdf

 

Wow, that's a whole bunch of kinky stuff to know about. Glad I have you guys before I get my car. I would have done bad on that warm up thing had I not read this, thanks Taka and all others who provided tips.

The tips on all the lighting stuff is valuable as I'm sure the manual doesn't explain some stuff well. Also all those tips on turning this and that and resetting whatever is good to know.

The 20 stomps has always cracked me up. Now that I'm getting one it's a great trick to know. I think my car has a 8/03 build date, what flash would i have?
Doesn't matter I guess the first time it sees a dealer they will change it, right?

Can't wait to start up a dealer relationship, these have never gone well for me.
I wonder why?

 

RP, I hope you were able to get the Nav system for you test bed. It would come in handy for calculating your mileage runs (as though you didn't have other devices), in terms of plotting out "standard" test routes.

 

Hi, just wonder where did U hear about the ABS self test from? I always wanna know what is that sound when every morning my 8 moves out from my house's drive way..

 

Do NOT lean on the center console lid - the tab will break. Resting your arm during shifting is OK (barely), but anything more and SNAP.

Keep a spare quart of oil in the trunk.

 

It's in the manual. At least, it's in mine. Don't know about other countries.

 

The OEM tyres cost around $400 per corner....

 

Hell, that's more than the P Zero's cost for my Testarossa!!!!!!

 

thinking of getting the Potenza G3... any ideas n comments?
what tyres are U using, prices and any comments...

 

Australian dollars, methinks.

Not that funny green stuff that isn't even plastic.

 

Taka, I noticed you have the Mazdaspeed rear spoiler. Can you recommend a good source of Mazdaspeed parts at all? City Mazda quoted me approx $3k a part.

I remember seeing a site that operated out of QLD a while back that did replicas for a few hundred a pop, but I can't find it anymore. Is there a directory of good Aussie retailers anywhere?

Thanks guys!

M

Edit: Doh, just figured out how to navigate Taka's site properly. Checking out japanparts.com now.

 

E5 E10 petrol info added.

 

Just a little point...

There is a big difference in saying that and saying...

"we recommend against using ..."

Because, as far as I can tell, they don't actually recommend against using it either.

What they do "actually" recommend is using Unleaded Petrol with a RON of 95 or higher.

Also see this... http://www.fcai.com.au/ethanol.php/2.../00000001.html

Cheers,
Hymee.