Apex seals
#1
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Apex seals
hi guys,
could anyone please tell me where the apex seals are located, and what components would i lose if it breaks while on the road.
Thanks,
could anyone please tell me where the apex seals are located, and what components would i lose if it breaks while on the road.
Thanks,
#4
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This is something you should have known before buying the car ... since it is the reason a lot of us bought it in the first place.
Watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BCgl...eature=related
For information, have a quick read of these:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pistonless_rotary_engine
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm
Anyway, get a good understanding of how it works. Once you understand how it works, you'll realise there's nothing to worry about. If you're still worried, an engine rebuild doesn't cost all that much at the end of the day and you should get 200+km out of the engine if you look after it properly.
Last edited by Cromax; 02-20-2009 at 07:01 PM.
#8
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#9
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Thanks guys, much appreciated. Just another thing, how many times should i redline the car a day to clear the carbon. i drive approximately 120kms a day just to and from work.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#10
Metatron
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I think 'redline' is a bit misleading, what is needed is a bit of wide-open-throttle, only high engine output, high intake volumes and high exhaust gas temps will clear carbon.
The old RX-7 phrase 'drive it like you stole it' applies even more to the '8.....
S
The old RX-7 phrase 'drive it like you stole it' applies even more to the '8.....
S
#12
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I don't consider this to be correct. I give mine a boot every now and again, but most of the time I'm driving it as a GT car, not as a sports car (as it's not a sports car at all!). You don't drive GT cars on the limit all the time ... they're not made to be driven that way!
I'm also heading towards 120k with no issues with my engine or drivetrain ... and I'm on my first set of coils!
I'm also heading towards 120k with no issues with my engine or drivetrain ... and I'm on my first set of coils!
#13
I don't buy Kool-Aid
![Lol2](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/lol2.gif)
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yeah i just vary my driving, i dont boot it 24/7 but time to time i will. Not a full trip offcourse, maybe when im late for work ill drive like a maniac. haha, anyways what sort of oils do u guys recommend?
#15
I don't buy Kool-Aid
I use Mobil 5-W30 in the summer and 5-w20 in the winter. Its been getting really cold out here in Las Vegas NV (USA). I also change it ever 2,000 miles and flush it. Keeps my engine running great and clean.
#16
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this may also sound silly, but if i get my rx8 serviced theyll obviously change the oil. If i dont know what oil there using say 10-w40 and i top up with 5-w30 after 1-2 weeks. Will that cause any harm?
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I was thinking more along the lines of 10w-40, the weather here it probably gets as cool as 5degrees around the 5am peak during winter, and as hot as 40degrees in the summers. What you think?
#21
Metatron
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A good tip is NOT to go 'thicker' on the first number - that is the cold viscosity, and NO oil is thin enough on cold startup.
A low first number usually indicates a very good oil. I use 0w30 in winter, and 0w40 in summer.
S
A low first number usually indicates a very good oil. I use 0w30 in winter, and 0w40 in summer.
S
#23
I don't buy Kool-Aid
Thanks for posting that StealthTL (someone who knows wtf he is talking about). I was to lazi to dig up all them post you stated about the oil weight.
For the OG poster check this out-> http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...?articleid=171
Also use some idemitsu pre-mix. Best stuff hands down.
For the OG poster check this out-> http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...?articleid=171
Also use some idemitsu pre-mix. Best stuff hands down.
#25
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Penrite HPR 5 5W-50?
Mobil 1 5W-30 (It's semi-synthetic and is rated the same as MRO)
Motul 5W-30 (I think it's the 8100 series one) or better.
I've personally only used Mazda Rotary Oil, Penrite and Mobil (in that order). I haven't used the Motul in my RX8 yet, but after playing with what I've used for fuel economy/performance etc. Mobil 1 comes out best by a long shot.
I find HPR5 to be too thick for everyday use fpr my application ... and the decreased oil use made me a bit nervous (as there was obviously less oil being pumped into the rotars) ... it goes a bit gritty like Mazda Rotary Oil does toward the 10000km change as well. which means it's oxidising before the oil change even with our 2+ litres of topups, which is bad!
Mobil 1 doesn't seem to oxidise as quickly as the others ... meaning it's the better oil out of those I've used. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't work out what's best for you!