On the strength of this post. I checked the coils in my 03-model today. A picture speak the thousand words in this case but needless to say I am now going to order a set from Online Mazda parts as suggested by "erx8" & bypass Mazda Australia's ripp off pricing.

Note:....... 1 coil appears better than the other 3, thats because l wiped it prior to taking the pics. (doh!)

The end pic shows my "short-term" solution until I can source new coils. May even make up a rubber mat under them to reduce the risk again in the future by reducing the "Negative potential". Can tell you all that the factory intake piping will be used (via another source once the Odula intake is purchased) to duct cool air over the coils for the sake of reliability.

The pitting on all 4 coils makes for an easy explanation of the slight mis-firing at idle. For reference. There is just 53k km on the clock.











REgards

 

David .....

You will find your car should run way more efficiently after changing those coils man they seem far worse then the ones i replaced .Totally burnt

Dont forget to reset your ECU after you replaced your coils .

When you find a solution to as per your "quote" :.............. Let us know

"Can tell you all that the factory intake piping will be used (via another source once the Odula intake is purchased) to duct cool air over the coils for the sake of reliability."


Cheers
Michael

 

Dave, my understanding was that the issue you have identified in your pictures is due to an arc being created, not a heat issue. Therefore running air to the coils wouls seem pointless (and add a risk of getting water in there?).

Cheers

Andrew

 

Understood where you are coming from Andrew but end result is these coils require replacement. Hoping the new coils are more resistant to arcing, burning out etc.

I recall the 26B powered Auto-Exe car at Le-mans in 02 for this issue. They lost IGN modules & coils at the 12-HR Pettit Le Mans due to all electronics sealed in a box. For the actual Le Mans, they ducted flow through air into the box & it was never an issue again. Racing brings these issues to the surface quickly as we all know.

I'll make something up as I feel it cant hurt the cause & most will know that cooler electronics run better anyway. It will be descreet & tasteful too. Water splash issues will use a high-tech S-bend & drain holes for added excitment........lol

REgards

 

DMRH,

Way time poor atm.

Would be grateful if you could post (or PM) what you're paying for 4 coils from Online Mazda Parts and how quickly they can be delivered.

Thanks

Rev

 

Dave ..............Revolver


As posted earlier by me


Mazda Australia as usual rips us off on thePARTS prices , so go to Online mazda parts get ontu Jason MC BAGGIE get four Ignition coils for$27.56 EACH +29.50 Postage = ... $150 aus delivered to your door within 10 days a

.......................BIG SAVING OF $ 450.00

THE PART NUMBER IS ............N3H1-18-100-9U

Cheers
Michael

 

Yep, good point, well taken. I think the main issue looks to be the arcing, but if you put ruber under it and it heats up then you are going to end up with a mess of molten plastic, bakalite and possibly even engine.

Make sure you make your "design" is repeatable and patent it cause it looks like a few people will be wanting to do it.

Cheers

Andrew

 

4 OEM Catalog
IGNITION COIL $110.24 Sub Total: $110.24 Tax $0.00 Shipping $20.00 Total: $130.24

Placed order today as per your suggestions. Based on exchange rates. I should have order shipped to my door for less than the cost Mazda Australia try to rip us off for a single coil or AU$150 onto my credit card.

REgards

 

^+1 OnlineMazdaParts FTW anyway,just wonder how do you guys(03 model) reset the ecu?because 20x brakes pedal doesn't work for us (03 model)

 

dmrh, are you still using the HKS twin-powerII?

do you think it shortened the coil life?

 

Yeah, the HKS Twin power is still there. Was it a contributing factor...?? Hard to say. All the 03 + 04 cars are losing their coils around the 40k km to 80k km area & mine was right in the meat of that.

Even if the HKS Twin power contributes to coil failure, at US$27 ea (plus postage) they are cheap enough for me to use, get another 50k km from them & replace again

Foo77.......... I'm guessing that issue will pop up when I go to fit the new ones. Fingers crossed it wont be an issue but "We shall see"

REgards

 

Mine's an 4/04 build and I didn't even make 40K!!

 

I guess then that mine is due for problems too :D

 

OK.. an update and a few tips..

1. I'm still waiting on my new plugs and leads, but i decided to install the new coil packs first so that I could be 100% sure that they were the root cause.
Yes. My diagnosis (with much help from this forum) was correct. My baby runs much better now. In fact she's running better than she's been running for well over a year. Idle is much more stable than before but not perfect.
Throttle response is so much better. I wonder how much difference new plugs and leads will do...

2. I didn't unplug the battery before doing this as I didn't think it would be necessary. Although she was running 100% on first crank, none of the reset procedures would clear the CEL. (20x brake tap or the Hold speedo reset whilst turning ignition on.)
I unplugged the battery then did both resets and voila! she's now back to normal, lights and all.

I'm now eagerly awaiting my new plugs and leads.

 

L J

Glad to see your ride is back running well , and that you havent been raped by the Mazda Stearlerships unlike others on this forum ..........

The other piece of kit to help put all your upgrades into the zone may be a

Optima D51 R Higher crancking capacity Battery .

Cheers
Michael

 

That is actually the first process of clearing the CEL. You will have to drive around for about 100 miles. For some cars, it requires a certain number of starting the car as well.

 

Well inspired by Dave (DRMH) I had a go at (amongst other things) my coils today.

The pictures show the state which to me look similar, but not as bad as Dave's.

I wanted to do the same as Dave and try to insultate the coils from the metal plate, but based on the thought train that the coils are getting quite hot, I wanted to steer clear of plastics/rubbers. I ended up using a piece of Engine Gasket paper.

Cheers

Andrew

 

Andrew

You seem to have a lot of dust in your engine compartment , needs a spring clean the oil vapours have trapped the dust /dirt , your coils show the hot white spots as well .

Cheers
Michael

 

Spot on about the dirt/dust. I had an off at last years nats where I ended up being called the plough man by a a few here its been there since then and I have no idea how to clean it out. I am to scared to use water via a hose in the engine bay.

Hopefully the gasket paper will stop the arcing.

Cheers

Andrew

 

Andrew - there are professional who does this thing....

My time can be spend in better place.

 

Taka's right. You can get your engine bay professionally cleaned.

Sounds like you need to order some spare coils though Andrew...(or should I say Farmer Andy, lol)?

 

Never thought of it. Will have a look. Thanks guys.

Cheers

Mr Plough

 

OK, been thinking about this and I dont understand something. What is actually failing here?

People have talked about something arcing. Is there voltage coming into/leaving the coils "leaking" out of the connectors and arcing on the metal plate holding the coils?

Or is there something internal in the coil failing?

Cheers

Andrew

 

here is my old coil and i already replace the new one. till now. its seem all fine.

as you can see my old coils have water mark and crack on where i circle it.

and as i been told it should be water proof, but when it gets too hot or water drops on them, it makes damage.

 

I inspected my coils and there were signs of the white marks but not as bad as the photos posted.

I would guess this isn't so much a heat issue and more to do with high rpm and high duty cycle. if it was a heat issue then I'm in a hotter climate so I should be more prone to heat issues.

I don't think the coils would arc to the mount. I guess the coils inside are heating up breaking down the plastic material. moving them to a cooler spot will help them get rid of heat but I'm guessing they will still show signs of burning if used at high rpm frequently.