Burnt ignition coils...
11-18-2007, 06:44 AM
#26
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On the strength of this post. I checked the coils in my 03-model today. A picture speak the thousand words in this case but needless to say I am now going to order a set from Online Mazda parts as suggested by "erx8" & bypass Mazda Australia's ripp off pricing.
Note:....... 1 coil appears better than the other 3, thats because l wiped it prior to taking the pics. (doh!)
The end pic shows my "short-term" solution until I can source new coils. May even make up a rubber mat under them to reduce the risk again in the future by reducing the "Negative potential". Can tell you all that the factory intake piping will be used (via another source once the Odula intake is purchased) to duct cool air over the coils for the sake of reliability.
The pitting on all 4 coils makes for an easy explanation of the slight mis-firing at idle. For reference. There is just 53k km on the clock.
REgards
Note:....... 1 coil appears better than the other 3, thats because l wiped it prior to taking the pics. (doh!)
The end pic shows my "short-term" solution until I can source new coils. May even make up a rubber mat under them to reduce the risk again in the future by reducing the "Negative potential". Can tell you all that the factory intake piping will be used (via another source once the Odula intake is purchased) to duct cool air over the coils for the sake of reliability.
The pitting on all 4 coils makes for an easy explanation of the slight mis-firing at idle. For reference. There is just 53k km on the clock.
REgards
Last edited by DMRH; 11-18-2007 at 06:56 AM.
11-18-2007, 03:27 PM
#27
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David .....
You will find your car should run way more efficiently after changing those coils man they seem far worse then the ones i replaced .Totally burnt
Dont forget to reset your ECU after you replaced your coils .
When you find a solution to as per your "quote" :.............. Let us know
"Can tell you all that the factory intake piping will be used (via another source once the Odula intake is purchased) to duct cool air over the coils for the sake of reliability."
Cheers
Michael
You will find your car should run way more efficiently after changing those coils man they seem far worse then the ones i replaced .Totally burnt
Dont forget to reset your ECU after you replaced your coils .
When you find a solution to as per your "quote" :.............. Let us know
"Can tell you all that the factory intake piping will be used (via another source once the Odula intake is purchased) to duct cool air over the coils for the sake of reliability."
Cheers
Michael
Last edited by erx8s; 11-18-2007 at 03:58 PM.
11-19-2007, 03:51 AM
#28
Hmmmmmm.........
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On the strength of this post. I checked the coils in my 03-model today. A picture speak the thousand words in this case but needless to say I am now going to order a set from Online Mazda parts as suggested by "erx8" & bypass Mazda Australia's ripp off pricing.
Note:....... 1 coil appears better than the other 3, thats because l wiped it prior to taking the pics. (doh!)
The end pic shows my "short-term" solution until I can source new coils. May even make up a rubber mat under them to reduce the risk again in the future by reducing the "Negative potential". Can tell you all that the factory intake piping will be used (via another source once the Odula intake is purchased) to duct cool air over the coils for the sake of reliability.
The pitting on all 4 coils makes for an easy explanation of the slight mis-firing at idle. For reference. There is just 53k km on the clock.
REgards
Note:....... 1 coil appears better than the other 3, thats because l wiped it prior to taking the pics. (doh!)
The end pic shows my "short-term" solution until I can source new coils. May even make up a rubber mat under them to reduce the risk again in the future by reducing the "Negative potential". Can tell you all that the factory intake piping will be used (via another source once the Odula intake is purchased) to duct cool air over the coils for the sake of reliability.
The pitting on all 4 coils makes for an easy explanation of the slight mis-firing at idle. For reference. There is just 53k km on the clock.
REgards
Cheers
Andrew
11-19-2007, 07:00 AM
#29
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I recall the 26B powered Auto-Exe car at Le-mans in 02 for this issue. They lost IGN modules & coils at the 12-HR Pettit Le Mans due to all electronics sealed in a box. For the actual Le Mans, they ducted flow through air into the box & it was never an issue again. Racing brings these issues to the surface quickly as we all know.
I'll make something up as I feel it cant hurt the cause & most will know that cooler electronics run better anyway. It will be descreet & tasteful too. Water splash issues will use a high-tech S-bend & drain holes for added excitment........lol
REgards
11-20-2007, 01:27 AM
#30
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DMRH,
Way time poor atm.
Would be grateful if you could post (or PM) what you're paying for 4 coils from Online Mazda Parts and how quickly they can be delivered.
Thanks
Rev
Way time poor atm.
Would be grateful if you could post (or PM) what you're paying for 4 coils from Online Mazda Parts and how quickly they can be delivered.
Thanks
Rev
11-20-2007, 01:47 AM
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Dave ..............Revolver
As posted earlier
by me
Mazda Australia as usual rips us off on thePARTS prices , so go to Online mazda parts get ontu Jason MC BAGGIE get four Ignition coils for$27.56 EACH +29.50 Postage = ... $150 aus delivered to your door within 10 days a
.......................BIG SAVING OF $ 450.00
THE PART NUMBER IS ............N3H1-18-100-9U
Cheers
Michael
As posted earlier
by me Mazda Australia as usual rips us off on thePARTS prices , so go to Online mazda parts get ontu Jason MC BAGGIE get four Ignition coils for$27.56 EACH +29.50 Postage = ... $150 aus delivered to your door within 10 days a
.......................BIG SAVING OF $ 450.00
THE PART NUMBER IS ............N3H1-18-100-9U
Cheers
Michael
11-20-2007, 02:33 AM
#32
Hmmmmmm.........
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Understood where you are coming from Andrew but end result is these coils require replacement. Hoping the new coils are more resistant to arcing, burning out etc.
I recall the 26B powered Auto-Exe car at Le-mans in 02 for this issue. They lost IGN modules & coils at the 12-HR Pettit Le Mans due to all electronics sealed in a box. For the actual Le Mans, they ducted flow through air into the box & it was never an issue again. Racing brings these issues to the surface quickly as we all know.
I'll make something up as I feel it cant hurt the cause & most will know that cooler electronics run better anyway. It will be descreet & tasteful too. Water splash issues will use a high-tech S-bend & drain holes for added excitment........lol
REgards
I recall the 26B powered Auto-Exe car at Le-mans in 02 for this issue. They lost IGN modules & coils at the 12-HR Pettit Le Mans due to all electronics sealed in a box. For the actual Le Mans, they ducted flow through air into the box & it was never an issue again. Racing brings these issues to the surface quickly as we all know.
I'll make something up as I feel it cant hurt the cause & most will know that cooler electronics run better anyway. It will be descreet & tasteful too. Water splash issues will use a high-tech S-bend & drain holes for added excitment........lol
REgards
Make sure you make your "design" is repeatable and patent it cause it looks like a few people will be wanting to do it.
Cheers
Andrew
11-20-2007, 05:48 AM
#33
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Dave ..............Revolver
As posted earlier by me
Mazda Australia as usual rips us off on thePARTS prices , so go to Online mazda parts get ontu Jason MC BAGGIE get four Ignition coils for$27.56 EACH +29.50 Postage = ... $150 aus delivered to your door within 10 days a
.......................BIG SAVING OF $ 450.00
THE PART NUMBER IS ............N3H1-18-100-9U
Cheers
Michael
As posted earlier
by me Mazda Australia as usual rips us off on thePARTS prices , so go to Online mazda parts get ontu Jason MC BAGGIE get four Ignition coils for$27.56 EACH +29.50 Postage = ... $150 aus delivered to your door within 10 days a
.......................BIG SAVING OF $ 450.00
THE PART NUMBER IS ............N3H1-18-100-9U
Cheers
Michael
IGNITION COIL $110.24 Sub Total: $110.24 Tax $0.00 Shipping $20.00 Total: $130.24
Placed order today as per your suggestions. Based on exchange rates. I should have order shipped to my door for less than the cost Mazda Australia try to rip us off for a single coil or AU$150 onto my credit card.
REgards
11-21-2007, 05:52 AM
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Yeah, the HKS Twin power is still there. Was it a contributing factor...?? Hard to say. All the 03 + 04 cars are losing their coils around the 40k km to 80k km area & mine was right in the meat of that.
Even if the HKS Twin power contributes to coil failure, at US$27 ea (plus postage) they are cheap enough for me to use, get another 50k km from them & replace again
Foo77.......... I'm guessing that issue will pop up when I go to fit the new ones. Fingers crossed it wont be an issue but "We shall see"
REgards
11-22-2007, 04:51 AM
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OK.. an update and a few tips..
1. I'm still waiting on my new plugs and leads, but i decided to install the new coil packs first so that I could be 100% sure that they were the root cause.
Yes. My diagnosis (with much help from this forum) was correct. My baby runs much better now. In fact she's running better than she's been running for well over a year. Idle is much more stable than before but not perfect.
Throttle response is so much better. I wonder how much difference new plugs and leads will do...
2. I didn't unplug the battery before doing this as I didn't think it would be necessary. Although she was running 100% on first crank, none of the reset procedures would clear the CEL. (20x brake tap or the Hold speedo reset whilst turning ignition on.)
I unplugged the battery then did both resets and voila! she's now back to normal, lights and all.
I'm now eagerly awaiting my new plugs and leads.
1. I'm still waiting on my new plugs and leads, but i decided to install the new coil packs first so that I could be 100% sure that they were the root cause.
Yes. My diagnosis (with much help from this forum) was correct. My baby runs much better now. In fact she's running better than she's been running for well over a year. Idle is much more stable than before but not perfect.
Throttle response is so much better. I wonder how much difference new plugs and leads will do...
2. I didn't unplug the battery before doing this as I didn't think it would be necessary. Although she was running 100% on first crank, none of the reset procedures would clear the CEL. (20x brake tap or the Hold speedo reset whilst turning ignition on.)
I unplugged the battery then did both resets and voila! she's now back to normal, lights and all.
I'm now eagerly awaiting my new plugs and leads.
11-22-2007, 04:16 PM
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L J
Glad to see your ride is back running well , and that you havent been raped by the Mazda Stearlerships unlike others on this forum ..........
The other piece of kit to help put all your upgrades into the zone may be a
Optima D51 R Higher crancking capacity Battery .
Cheers
Michael
Glad to see your ride is back running well , and that you havent been raped by the Mazda Stearlerships unlike others on this forum ..........
The other piece of kit to help put all your upgrades into the zone may be a
Optima D51 R Higher crancking capacity Battery .
Cheers
Michael
Last edited by erx8s; 11-22-2007 at 09:35 PM.
11-22-2007, 04:18 PM
#41
OK.. an update and a few tips..
1. I'm still waiting on my new plugs and leads, but i decided to install the new coil packs first so that I could be 100% sure that they were the root cause.
Yes. My diagnosis (with much help from this forum) was correct. My baby runs much better now. In fact she's running better than she's been running for well over a year. Idle is much more stable than before but not perfect.
Throttle response is so much better. I wonder how much difference new plugs and leads will do...
2. I didn't unplug the battery before doing this as I didn't think it would be necessary. Although she was running 100% on first crank, none of the reset procedures would clear the CEL. (20x brake tap or the Hold speedo reset whilst turning ignition on.)
I unplugged the battery then did both resets and voila! she's now back to normal, lights and all.
I'm now eagerly awaiting my new plugs and leads.
1. I'm still waiting on my new plugs and leads, but i decided to install the new coil packs first so that I could be 100% sure that they were the root cause.
Yes. My diagnosis (with much help from this forum) was correct. My baby runs much better now. In fact she's running better than she's been running for well over a year. Idle is much more stable than before but not perfect.
Throttle response is so much better. I wonder how much difference new plugs and leads will do...
2. I didn't unplug the battery before doing this as I didn't think it would be necessary. Although she was running 100% on first crank, none of the reset procedures would clear the CEL. (20x brake tap or the Hold speedo reset whilst turning ignition on.)
I unplugged the battery then did both resets and voila! she's now back to normal, lights and all.
I'm now eagerly awaiting my new plugs and leads.
11-24-2007, 02:13 AM
#42
Hmmmmmm.........
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Well inspired by Dave (DRMH) I had a go at (amongst other things) my coils today.
The pictures show the state which to me look similar, but not as bad as Dave's.
I wanted to do the same as Dave and try to insultate the coils from the metal plate, but based on the thought train that the coils are getting quite hot, I wanted to steer clear of plastics/rubbers. I ended up using a piece of Engine Gasket paper.
Cheers
Andrew
The pictures show the state which to me look similar, but not as bad as Dave's.
I wanted to do the same as Dave and try to insultate the coils from the metal plate, but based on the thought train that the coils are getting quite hot, I wanted to steer clear of plastics/rubbers. I ended up using a piece of Engine Gasket paper.
Cheers
Andrew
11-24-2007, 02:29 AM
#43
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Andrew
You seem to have a lot of dust in your engine compartment , needs a spring clean the oil vapours have trapped the dust /dirt , your coils show the hot white spots as well .
Cheers
Michael
You seem to have a lot of dust in your engine compartment , needs a spring clean
the oil vapours have trapped the dust /dirt , your coils show the hot white spots as well .Cheers
Michael
11-24-2007, 03:12 AM
#44
Hmmmmmm.........
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Spot on about the dirt/dust. I had an off at last years nats where I ended up being called the plough man by a a few here 
its been there since then and I have no idea how to clean it out. I am to scared to use water via a hose in the engine bay.
Hopefully the gasket paper will stop the arcing.
Cheers
Andrew
its been there since then and I have no idea how to clean it out. I am to scared to use water via a hose in the engine bay.Hopefully the gasket paper will stop the arcing.
Cheers
Andrew
11-24-2007, 02:31 PM
#46
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Taka's right. You can get your engine bay professionally cleaned.
Sounds like you need to order some spare coils though Andrew...(or should I say Farmer Andy, lol)?
Sounds like you need to order some spare coils though Andrew...(or should I say Farmer Andy, lol)?
11-24-2007, 10:40 PM
#48
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OK, been thinking about this and I dont understand something. What is actually failing here?
People have talked about something arcing. Is there voltage coming into/leaving the coils "leaking" out of the connectors and arcing on the metal plate holding the coils?
Or is there something internal in the coil failing?
Cheers
Andrew
People have talked about something arcing. Is there voltage coming into/leaving the coils "leaking" out of the connectors and arcing on the metal plate holding the coils?
Or is there something internal in the coil failing?
Cheers
Andrew
11-24-2007, 11:22 PM
#49
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here is my old coil and i already replace the new one. till now. its seem all fine.
as you can see my old coils have water mark and crack on where i circle it.
and as i been told it should be water proof, but when it gets too hot or water drops on them, it makes damage.
as you can see my old coils have water mark and crack on where i circle it.
and as i been told it should be water proof, but when it gets too hot or water drops on them, it makes damage.
11-25-2007, 12:14 AM
#50
I inspected my coils and there were signs of the white marks but not as bad as the photos posted.
I would guess this isn't so much a heat issue and more to do with high rpm and high duty cycle. if it was a heat issue then I'm in a hotter climate so I should be more prone to heat issues.
I don't think the coils would arc to the mount. I guess the coils inside are heating up breaking down the plastic material. moving them to a cooler spot will help them get rid of heat but I'm guessing they will still show signs of burning if used at high rpm frequently.
I would guess this isn't so much a heat issue and more to do with high rpm and high duty cycle. if it was a heat issue then I'm in a hotter climate so I should be more prone to heat issues.
I don't think the coils would arc to the mount. I guess the coils inside are heating up breaking down the plastic material. moving them to a cooler spot will help them get rid of heat but I'm guessing they will still show signs of burning if used at high rpm frequently.