ASH8

Thanks Dave, I never really liked the rear lower black plastic on the Series one, to me it cheapened the car.

The new black plastic nose (mustache) was an issue for me too, but with white, black or even grey paint job, you hardly notice it, then with the number plate it blends in much better.

The side indicator fender lamp is growing on me and to be honest it is the only thing I really dislike about my car (Incidentally you have to replace the entire unit if the LCD lamp burns out). The headlamps for the Australian spec cars look great with the Clear clean lenses. The FOG Lamps have a Glass lens not plastic BTW.

The only other thing I was not keen on were the multi spoked alloys in silver instead of chrome, but again IMO they look the best on white, black or grey paint jobs.

You have to check it out in the flesh Dave, the RED leather is really smick, the only other option is black and it is too much black inside, it looks dark and heavy.

Ash

ASH8

You know differently, or are you being sarcastic...

I guess Mazda just added two extra oil injection nozzles for the heck of it with and electric OMP which is controlled more efficiently and effectively by the cars PCM.

ASH8

Already have mate, so far there are only 2 of the same cars in Australia.

So I guess that sets my car apart from the rest.

I may add a few thing inside, but externally, no. Why spoil a masterpiece!!

ASH8

DAVE,

Need your advice, views.

This morning (cold engine) I checked the oil level, the new dip stick is nearly 2 feet long!, according to the manual it would require about a litre to top up already, that's if I was to checked it hot.

BUT, then we are told (owners manual) you have to check the oil when the engine is at normal operating temperature and exactly 5 minutes after you turn car off.

Obviously the rotary is a lot different to a banger as far as gravity is concerned, but I am a little perplexed as to why Mazda would have a policy which requires a hot engine to check oil.

I would have thought they could of calibrated the dipstick markings so the procedure is the same as any other brand of car.

Past rotaries I have owned and bangers, you (I) were always advised to check engine oil levels on a cold or warm motor.

Any thoughts.

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

For some reason your car is making me think of the 67 Cosmo. Must be the white playing with my brain.

Beautiful! Enjoy.

Paul.

Revolver

I agree the rear end of the series I car is a bit too busy and the black plastic doesn't help. I've tried hard to keep mine looking good by liberal use of Meguiars trim detailer - looks even worse if you allow it to fade, etc. I think that's one area where aftermarket body kit plastic improves the look of the car, as does debadging - Kall's car was a case in point - a big improvement on stock IMHO. So that's why I was a little disappointed that they cleaned up the rear end on series II but then added fussy **** like the reflectors over the exhausts.

As for the side indicator fender lamp and cut-out on series II, I don't understand why they tried to toughen up the look of the car with more aggressive grille openings, etc but then softened the flanks. I think the series I cutout with strakes was a really good bit of detailing that helps distinguish the car and I think the change to series II was change for change's sake rather than an improvement.

I know what you mean about black leather - I've got that and although I like it with my TiGrey, the red does lift the interior, particularly on a white car.

Anyway, this is just discussion and small stuff really. Not trying to take the shine off your new pride and joy, she's a beaut. Have fun mate, you've earned it.

Revolver

I'll assume this is for DMRH Dave.

There has been discussion on this in the past though. Have you tried searching?...

ASH8

Thanks Paul, I will take that one, a Cosmo...MMM never thought of that!

ASH8

Not necc, you can answer if you want to REV

takahashi

Ash I assume you have a luxury model with GT front?

ASH8

No taka, that is the Standard Luxury front, the GT is a little more..umm ..detailed with an extra splitter I think and more curvy under the fog lights.

Rotary Xperiment

Yeah Ash, I am quite similar to you in the sense that I too don't like to modify cars too much once they're out of the factory---so I got mine ordered with the RS (JDM for R3) kit on!

As for oil, ever since I first checked it (car had around 800 km on the clock), it was a bit less than half, I have been checking it regularly since and a couple of weeks ago, it was at the 1/4 mark. and I've just added a liter of Castrol 10W30. Seems like either the oil wasnt topped up from the factory, or the initial oil consumption (during break in) is pretty high).

I've checked my oil on a cold engine and as Mazda recommended (warm/hot engine), didnt find any difference in the measurment. Asked one of the mechanics at the dealership, he recommends checking it on a cold engine.

robrecht

I've wondered about this too. How much of a difference have you noticed when checking the oil with the Renesis cold vs hot???

Revolver

Think about that. The only way you'd pick it up is if you checked it cold, then warmed it up and then checked it again. I personally haven't bothered to do so but I bet someone has...anyone?

ASH8

Hi RX,

Yes, I have just come back from my selling dealer and talked to the parts manager I have known for over 20 years, he is looking after me with parts, etc.

I also asked a few service guys about the oil checking thing and they say check when engine is HOT?, wait 5 minutes then get the correct reading.

I also have some other BORING information that I post in a new thread.
Ash

takahashi

You know what Ashley. You need to drive to Melbourne, to Winton, to break in the engine. Then open the tab on the track to get rid of some early carbon deposits.

ASH8

Not a Bad Idea there Taka!, got a spare bedroom!...the shed!!

takahashi

You can stay in my motel room. I am going up there Friday night.

ASH8

Sorry Taka, thanks for the offer, this weekend is not good for me, very kind mate, thanks anyway.

DMRH

Mazda give precise advise to suit the "****" USA market. You know, the same country that requires a "For USA. Do not swallow" sticker on batteries. The 5-MIN part is to ensure all oil has drained into the sump just like a banger. Reads better than "Wait a few minutes for engine oil to drain to the sump"

The reason why it would show another litre required is due to the original assembly in Japan. Mazda fill the exact amount for every engine in every car. When the engine is first started, it circulates & drops a certain amount to fill the coolers, filter etc. Then in Oz, it's unlikely the PD guys at the dealership would top it up as the rotary oil is more expensive than normal oil, their always rushed, they dont understand rotaries etc etc.

In the real world. You will find a 10% - 20% difference between hot & cold readings which could make a difference when the stick is reading MIN.

Just keep it topped up & you will be fine. To keep you in the good books for warranty reasons, make sure you use the dealer supplied "ROTARY OIL". I usually pay $50 per container so expect the same if you can score trade price.

FWIW, a 13B-MSP will have the same oil drain characteristics as a 13B-REW, 13B-TII, 13B-RESI etc etc only the sump capacity varies hence the need for the correct dip stick, so dont read too much into the oil reading issue. Keep it simple.

REgards

ASH8

Yeah, thanks Dave,

Personally I have always checked oil levels (obviously on flat surrounds) with a stone cold motor (in most cases, or luke warm), so I will continue to do so, out of curiosity I will again check when cold and then when hot and the 5 minute delay.

And see the difference, I don't think there will be a huge reading variation.

Dave, did you notice that I said the new Dip stick is nearly 2 feet long!, the new add on outer tube sits just below the engine cover, so it is a lot more convenient to get at a read.

mdr

Good looking car ASH.

I just wish they would sell the GT with the Lux seats.
I am too big and fat to sit in the GT seats for long but I prefer the look and feel of the GT.

Revolver

Hehehe, I wish they'd sell the GT without the bodykit...

ASH8

Agree Dave,
I think the GT Body Kit spoils the lines of the car, it just don't look right.

Revolver

I'm kinda stuffed with the series II because I want the suspension, seats and rims on the GT (but not the body kit) and the fruit in the Luxury (but hate sunroofs).

So, I've either got to learn to love the body kit or have it removed...or just keep saving for a 911...