Help Needed, Where to place Car Stands and Hydraulic Jack
#1
Help Needed, Where to place Car Stands and Hydraulic Jack
Dave, Michael, Trevor, ANYBODY.
Howdy,
I need your opinions/advice on the safest place to locate or position car stands on my RX-8.
I am wanting to use a large Hydraulic Jack to first lift the front of the car and then to place the car on stands, where is the correct position.
Then to lift the rear and do the same.
So..
1. where is the best position to locate 4 car stands.
2. where is the best position to use a 1200 kg Hydraulic Jack to lift either the front or rear of car.
Here is a under body pic of the Series II.
I was told not to use the side sill panel area where you would normally jack the car to replace a tyre with the car jack.
I am wanting to suspend the car on the 4 car stands.
So I can do my own servicing, etc.
Howdy,
I need your opinions/advice on the safest place to locate or position car stands on my RX-8.
I am wanting to use a large Hydraulic Jack to first lift the front of the car and then to place the car on stands, where is the correct position.
Then to lift the rear and do the same.
So..
1. where is the best position to locate 4 car stands.
2. where is the best position to use a 1200 kg Hydraulic Jack to lift either the front or rear of car.
Here is a under body pic of the Series II.
I was told not to use the side sill panel area where you would normally jack the car to replace a tyre with the car jack.
I am wanting to suspend the car on the 4 car stands.
So I can do my own servicing, etc.
#2
For the rear, I am thinking ON the black painted steel bracket (bolted to the rear chassis rail) near each fuel tank..see it?
For the Front...MMMmmm?
The Black Painted (Cross Member?) where the lower alloy suspension arms are fixed, near the sump guard.?
Where to use the Hydraulic Jack to lift the car?, any suggestions.
For the Front...MMMmmm?
The Black Painted (Cross Member?) where the lower alloy suspension arms are fixed, near the sump guard.?
Where to use the Hydraulic Jack to lift the car?, any suggestions.
#3
normally your diff case in the rear and the front cross member in front of the silver sump cover.
jack stands I'm not so sure of as they are normally shaped for a solid rear axle and don't suit many points?
jack stands I'm not so sure of as they are normally shaped for a solid rear axle and don't suit many points?
#4
there's a jack point on the front, I can't really see from the picture, but it's right in the middle of the car, between the stone tray and the silver coloured area. Get a light down there and you should be able something slightly stick out, made of metal (the body/chasis). For the rear, use the diff.
For jack stand, use the side, there should be 2 nooks on each side, behind front wheel and in front of rear wheel. This would be the same jack point as in if you are using the standard jack that comes with the car. check the manual for the location to be precise, but you should be able to see 2 nooks and the point is just in between.
For jack stand, use the side, there should be 2 nooks on each side, behind front wheel and in front of rear wheel. This would be the same jack point as in if you are using the standard jack that comes with the car. check the manual for the location to be precise, but you should be able to see 2 nooks and the point is just in between.
#5
I agree with not using the jacks on the side walls between the wheels, the metal is way too too thin. There are a few threads arounds on jacking the car up, with these pics articulating the best recommended position. https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1214047137
#6
The series 2 is a little different.
There is a silver alloy plate which covers the sump and cross member, it is held on with 7 hex bolts, to reveal sump, drain plug and I am sure X member, you can see from the pic above the cross member is covered.
There is a silver alloy plate which covers the sump and cross member, it is held on with 7 hex bolts, to reveal sump, drain plug and I am sure X member, you can see from the pic above the cross member is covered.
#8
The rear is as said previously (and marked below). The front you HAVE to use the side rails. When you jack the car up, use a block of wood if you are worried about marking things. Just dont use it with the jack stand.
Cheers
Andrew
Cheers
Andrew
#9
Thanks mate,
Your rear pic markings are where I though, do you think it is OK if I use my Floor Jack on rear diff to lift the back up and then put the stands at the rear locations you marked in the Pic?, I just have concerns jacking the car up by the diff, after all it is not like a live axle/diff set up like say a RWD 626, or 323.
I would like to think I could use my floor jack to lift the front and then put floor stands, perhaps if I make up similar steel adapters like the OEM scissor jack?
As we know the sill metal will bend easily.
The front cross-member is not exposed in series II's
#10
Hi Andrew,
Thanks mate,
Your rear pic markings are where I though, do you think it is OK if I use my Floor Jack on rear diff to lift the back up and then put the stands at the rear locations you marked in the Pic?, I just have concerns jacking the car up by the diff, after all it is not like a live axle/diff set up like say a RWD 626, or 323.
I would like to think I could use my floor jack to lift the front and then put floor stands, perhaps if I make up similar steel adapters like the OEM scissor jack?
As we know the sill metal will bend easily.
The front cross-member is not exposed in series II's
Thanks mate,
Your rear pic markings are where I though, do you think it is OK if I use my Floor Jack on rear diff to lift the back up and then put the stands at the rear locations you marked in the Pic?, I just have concerns jacking the car up by the diff, after all it is not like a live axle/diff set up like say a RWD 626, or 323.
I would like to think I could use my floor jack to lift the front and then put floor stands, perhaps if I make up similar steel adapters like the OEM scissor jack?
As we know the sill metal will bend easily.
The front cross-member is not exposed in series II's
Cheers
Andrew
#11
Checked out my new 2009 Mazda RX-8 workshop manual and it says that the Jacking points for a Hydraulic Floor Jack are the Rear Diff Housing and the Front Centre Cross-member.
Also stipulates that floor stands be used once the car is lifted and to be placed under/at side sill points mentioned in owners handbook.
Also stipulates that floor stands be used once the car is lifted and to be placed under/at side sill points mentioned in owners handbook.
#12
Hello Ash,
I have a 2009 R3 and am trying to figure out the exact steps that need to be done to get the vehicle up on 4 jack stands.
Does the plate have to be removed to expose the front center cross member to jack the front end up? If so, how do you remove this plate prior to jacking it up? Do you drive up on ramps first? I'm curious to learn your step-by-step process for getting your 2009 RX-8 off the ground.
Also, there is not much clearance to get a floor jack under the car and I cannot see how to do it without the aid of ramps.
Thanks for your help on this forum.
-ErikP
I have a 2009 R3 and am trying to figure out the exact steps that need to be done to get the vehicle up on 4 jack stands.
Does the plate have to be removed to expose the front center cross member to jack the front end up? If so, how do you remove this plate prior to jacking it up? Do you drive up on ramps first? I'm curious to learn your step-by-step process for getting your 2009 RX-8 off the ground.
Also, there is not much clearance to get a floor jack under the car and I cannot see how to do it without the aid of ramps.
Thanks for your help on this forum.
-ErikP
#13
I typically drive the front up on Rhino ramps (as even with a race jack it's close under the front) and then jack the rear at the differential, jackstanding it outboard when I get the rear up. Then it's easy to jack the front at the crossmember if I need the front wheels in the air. Very safe process.
#15
On the 2009, to get to the front crossmember, does the protective plate have to be removed, or can it be left in place? Going by the picture in this thread as well as the comments by Ash, it unfortunately sounds like the plate has to be removed.
I guess having to remove the plate is OK since that step is necessary to perform an oil change and that is a good time to rotate the tires.
#16
Thanks for the step-by-step!
On the 2009, to get to the front crossmember, does the protective plate have to be removed, or can it be left in place? Going by the picture in this thread as well as the comments by Ash, it unfortunately sounds like the plate has to be removed.
I guess having to remove the plate is OK since that step is necessary to perform an oil change and that is a good time to rotate the tires.
On the 2009, to get to the front crossmember, does the protective plate have to be removed, or can it be left in place? Going by the picture in this thread as well as the comments by Ash, it unfortunately sounds like the plate has to be removed.
I guess having to remove the plate is OK since that step is necessary to perform an oil change and that is a good time to rotate the tires.
To do an OIL Change ONLY you don't need to remove the Silver Plate, if you are replacing the oil filter you do....you need a long 8mm Hex Key (Allan key) to remove the sump drain plug.
You can Jack the back of your car with raiser on the rear Diff Housing fins.
I have modified Car Stands that have the same type of metal slotted bracket as your cars Scissor Jack, so once I jack my car up I place the Stands where the cars Jack would go on the Side Sill Panels...then slowly lower the car onto that.
Some guys put stands in other locations, sorry I can't recommend other locations, IMO a lot depends on your car stand (s) designs.
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