How to run in your new engine
#1
How to run in your new engine
Another friend just picked up his base model Rx-8 today (paid $56500 on road) & what was the first thing he did after picking it up from the dealer??
Not fully warmed up, 8000 - change - 8000 - change - 8000 - change - back off.
Goes well for just 8km on the clock he commented..............
Before you all freak, (my natural tendancy here too) this guy owns one of Sydneys best known rotary shops & will be using the car as a test & development mule for his expected supercharger & turbocharger kits.
Will have to chat to his wife to whisper in his ear I think. What a way to run the engine in hey
Not fully warmed up, 8000 - change - 8000 - change - 8000 - change - back off.
Goes well for just 8km on the clock he commented..............
Before you all freak, (my natural tendancy here too) this guy owns one of Sydneys best known rotary shops & will be using the car as a test & development mule for his expected supercharger & turbocharger kits.
Will have to chat to his wife to whisper in his ear I think. What a way to run the engine in hey
#2
"Will have to chat to his wife to whisper in his ear I think. What a way to run the engine in hey"
Yup you better tell his wife, poor Renesis!!
Cheers
PS: You still got to tell me the secret to street register Innocent Blue FD3S RZ(series 8)!! Please, please, please:D :D :D
Yup you better tell his wife, poor Renesis!!
Cheers
PS: You still got to tell me the secret to street register Innocent Blue FD3S RZ(series 8)!! Please, please, please:D :D :D
#3
Not quite the way I would do it, but I guess if you own a workshop you don't fear engine wear and tear in the same way as the average owner.
Also, the Mazda running in instructions seem possibly even more concerned about lugging the engine, running at the same speed for long periods etc. For instance they say no cruise control while running in.
Some guy on another forum recommended running it in by leaving it idling in a car park - a bizarre strategy that would probably do more harm than the 8000 revving!
I've tried to give mine a good mix without either overly thrashing it or grannying about too much.
And I also try not to do too many very short runs. A Volvo mechanic once told me about an engine they'd had to rebuild after only around 90,000k (normal full service life of that engine being 400,000 to 500,000). It was completely shot, because the woman who owned it had simply done hundreds of tiny, careful little trips down to the shops in it and had never given the thing a decent long workout. Probably hardly ever got warmed up properly
Also, the Mazda running in instructions seem possibly even more concerned about lugging the engine, running at the same speed for long periods etc. For instance they say no cruise control while running in.
Some guy on another forum recommended running it in by leaving it idling in a car park - a bizarre strategy that would probably do more harm than the 8000 revving!
I've tried to give mine a good mix without either overly thrashing it or grannying about too much.
And I also try not to do too many very short runs. A Volvo mechanic once told me about an engine they'd had to rebuild after only around 90,000k (normal full service life of that engine being 400,000 to 500,000). It was completely shot, because the woman who owned it had simply done hundreds of tiny, careful little trips down to the shops in it and had never given the thing a decent long workout. Probably hardly ever got warmed up properly
#4
There are those that believe the best way to bed all the surfaces in on an engine is to drive it like you stole it!
But - there is a rev limiter that increases to the maximum when the engine is warmed up, so I don't think he could rev it more than the "ECU programmer" would have allowed. Anyway, my car was not cold when I got it. It had come straight from PD to tint to final PD, to the servo for a fill, then a short road test, then finally ready for me to take delivery.
And I can't keep away from it long enough to get cold anway
Cheers,
Hymee
But - there is a rev limiter that increases to the maximum when the engine is warmed up, so I don't think he could rev it more than the "ECU programmer" would have allowed. Anyway, my car was not cold when I got it. It had come straight from PD to tint to final PD, to the servo for a fill, then a short road test, then finally ready for me to take delivery.
And I can't keep away from it long enough to get cold anway
Cheers,
Hymee
#5
Huh ??????
Blue RZ ??????
the Series 8 RZ only comes in Snowflake white ????
Its a 2000 RZ limited (one of 175 ever made)
The last RZ.
Comes with carbon recaro seats (2seater only) RED
BBS wheels
Bilsteins
Red stitched wheel and ****
White dials
I have one for sale too. For $50k NZD
Blue RZ ??????
the Series 8 RZ only comes in Snowflake white ????
Its a 2000 RZ limited (one of 175 ever made)
The last RZ.
Comes with carbon recaro seats (2seater only) RED
BBS wheels
Bilsteins
Red stitched wheel and ****
White dials
I have one for sale too. For $50k NZD
Originally posted by Winning
"
PS: You still got to tell me the secret to street register Innocent Blue FD3S RZ(series 8)!! Please, please, please:D :D :D
"
PS: You still got to tell me the secret to street register Innocent Blue FD3S RZ(series 8)!! Please, please, please:D :D :D
#6
Originally posted by Winning
You still got to tell me the secret to street register Innocent Blue FD3S RZ(series 8)!! Please, please, please:D :D :D
You still got to tell me the secret to street register Innocent Blue FD3S RZ(series 8)!! Please, please, please:D :D :D
Just give me a call & I can explain the procedures to you. Its not that hard when you have been in the game.
Just expensive for the Aussie complaince costs.
That Kiwi "Type-RZ" is the same spec as the "Type-RS" with a few added goodies on top. Worth the buy if its priced right but still requires compliance.
REgards
#8
Originally posted by DMRH
G'day there.
Just give me a call & I can explain the procedures to you. Its not that hard when you have been in the game.
Just expensive for the Aussie complaince costs.
That Kiwi "Type-RZ" is the same spec as the "Type-RS" with a few added goodies on top. Worth the buy if its priced right but still requires compliance.
REgards
G'day there.
Just give me a call & I can explain the procedures to you. Its not that hard when you have been in the game.
Just expensive for the Aussie complaince costs.
That Kiwi "Type-RZ" is the same spec as the "Type-RS" with a few added goodies on top. Worth the buy if its priced right but still requires compliance.
REgards
When I was perving at your black FD(Paramatta rd), I almost hit a car in front of me.
The second time I saw your FD (walking, city center), I missed my green walking light.
This is my wallpaper(tile) at the moment.
#9
I think the most important part of the inital post was lost here..
Get your shop owner fellow to add Dez to the list of people who want the super charger option installed asap please.
--dez;
Get your shop owner fellow to add Dez to the list of people who want the super charger option installed asap please.
--dez;
#10
Price
$56,500 on the road !!! That's a good price for the base model, I've been quoted $60,800 on the road in Melbourne for the base model and the dealer won't budge. Which dealer was the 8 bought from ?
#13
:O
If he's not planning on keeping it long tem then I guess he doesnt care about engin wear. Lucking I not an Auz so wont have the unfortunate experiance of buying the carof him 2nd hand.
revving < 1000km is ok I guess, but let the engine warm up before!
If he's not planning on keeping it long tem then I guess he doesnt care about engin wear. Lucking I not an Auz so wont have the unfortunate experiance of buying the carof him 2nd hand.
revving < 1000km is ok I guess, but let the engine warm up before!
#14
Re: Price
Originally posted by vafuncool
$56,500 on the road !!! That's a good price for the base model, I've been quoted $60,800 on the road in Melbourne for the base model and the dealer won't budge. Which dealer was the 8 bought from ?
$56,500 on the road !!! That's a good price for the base model, I've been quoted $60,800 on the road in Melbourne for the base model and the dealer won't budge. Which dealer was the 8 bought from ?
Get some friends together that want to buy an RX-8 & talk turkey.
Watch them come to play..............
#15
Hi,
I will have 2 cars and only a one car garage at the moment and since I will be keeping the 8 in the garage and the other car parked behind it in the driveway, I will need move the other car out of the way before setting off with the 8.
My question is: will starting the 8 cold, moving it a very short distance and then turning it off, then after a few minutes turn it on again before setting off, do any harm to the engine ?
Or should I start it cold, move it and then leave it running before setting off ?
Thanks for any advice.
tony
PS The 8 has less than 50 k at the moment.
I will have 2 cars and only a one car garage at the moment and since I will be keeping the 8 in the garage and the other car parked behind it in the driveway, I will need move the other car out of the way before setting off with the 8.
My question is: will starting the 8 cold, moving it a very short distance and then turning it off, then after a few minutes turn it on again before setting off, do any harm to the engine ?
Or should I start it cold, move it and then leave it running before setting off ?
Thanks for any advice.
tony
PS The 8 has less than 50 k at the moment.
#16
Originally posted by vafuncool
My question is: will starting the 8 cold, moving it a very short distance and then turning it off, then after a few minutes turn it on again before setting off, do any harm to the engine ?
Or should I start it cold, move it and then leave it running before setting off ?
My question is: will starting the 8 cold, moving it a very short distance and then turning it off, then after a few minutes turn it on again before setting off, do any harm to the engine ?
Or should I start it cold, move it and then leave it running before setting off ?
Apparently quite a bit of overall engine wear occurs when the motor is first started and the oil has not yet circulated around the moving parts. You are also getting a hit of richer fuel mixture on starting which apparently has a slightly greater tendency to 'wash' the oil off.
However, I doubt that the oil is going to all dart back into the sump in the short time involved. You're probably only talking minute wear differences particularly if the engine is warm enough for the idle speed to have dropped back to 1000rpm from the original 2000+ on starting. My preference would be to keep it running, but I doubt that it's going to make a huge difference. All guesswork though....
What do others think??
Just watch out for opportunists though. One of our local dealers was shifting stock around and left a key in an RX8 for a short time and a couple of guys who'd been lurking around jumped in and drove off. Used the car in a robbery the next day too! Much amusement amongst the other dealers, but also everybody taking a lot more care when moving stock now....
Last edited by BVD; 12-14-2003 at 07:59 PM.
#18
I keep seeing the subject of this post, and sometimes my eyes tells me it read "How to ruin a new engine"
Like was mentioned (in other words)...
Would you buy an abused car form this man?
Sorry - I am getting too tired and opinionated.
Cheers,
Hymee.
Like was mentioned (in other words)...
Would you buy an abused car form this man?
Sorry - I am getting too tired and opinionated.
Cheers,
Hymee.
#19
is your mate the guy from pac performance?
he has a nice cosmo to doesnt he?
should get a cosmo cruze together one day
do you know lance warren at all
4 cosmos 20b would be nice in a line
will wait till mines breathing 600kw flames
he has a nice cosmo to doesnt he?
should get a cosmo cruze together one day
do you know lance warren at all
4 cosmos 20b would be nice in a line
will wait till mines breathing 600kw flames
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