Oil??
#1
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Oil??
Yes I searched.
Ok what brand of oil are you guys using and where are you getting it?
I just checked my oil and need to top up, I went to Super Cheap around the corner and after 30 minutes of looking there is no oil they sale in the Mazda recommended W range that is not synthetic.
I read in another thread that MA does not recommend syn oil. So is the only place to get oil a MA dealer???
Ok what brand of oil are you guys using and where are you getting it?
I just checked my oil and need to top up, I went to Super Cheap around the corner and after 30 minutes of looking there is no oil they sale in the Mazda recommended W range that is not synthetic.
I read in another thread that MA does not recommend syn oil. So is the only place to get oil a MA dealer???
#3
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Short answer is yes, the only easily accessible place you can get non synthetic, RX-8 Spec oil is via MA.
Personally I think a semi synth is not a major issue and 10W30 is fine, even 5 or 10W40.
Cheers
Andrew
Personally I think a semi synth is not a major issue and 10W30 is fine, even 5 or 10W40.
Cheers
Andrew
#9
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try http://www.performancelub.com/Royal%...0pricelist.htm, speak to Harold, he's the man!
#11
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#12
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Total Base Number is just the number of milligrams of KOH per gram.
It determines how long the oil will last before the oil starts to oxidise. Therefore it gives you an idea as to how long the oil will last between changes.
It determines how long the oil will last before the oil starts to oxidise. Therefore it gives you an idea as to how long the oil will last between changes.
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#15
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I think it was the fact that that was the ONLY oil mazda tested with the engine that works...which is why they reccommend it.
It doesnt mean that other oils cant be used
#16
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10W30 most closely matches the temperature spec in the owners manual for where I live.
Australian conditions need oils suited to heat, not cold - unless you live in Canberra.
Australian conditions need oils suited to heat, not cold - unless you live in Canberra.
#17
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^^^
I agree what is wrong with using Castrol GTX3 it is a 15W40, heat range is great for our summers, it is mineral oil.
We already know that the oil pump and rotors are the same as the last RX-7 which can use GTX3, so why not use it in the 8??
I agree what is wrong with using Castrol GTX3 it is a 15W40, heat range is great for our summers, it is mineral oil.
We already know that the oil pump and rotors are the same as the last RX-7 which can use GTX3, so why not use it in the 8??
#18
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In what way do you mean the rotors are the same? I have seen threads identifying incompatabilities between the renesis housing and FD rotors. I have also read that the clearances on the renesis are also much smaller than on the FD, hence the need for a thinner oil.
#19
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Correct me if im wrong, but:
the first number is the viscosity when its cold
W = winter
the second number is the viscosity when its hot
Therefore, the second number is whats more important right and the first number is only important in colder temperatures (like when it hits the negatives)?
the first number is the viscosity when its cold
W = winter
the second number is the viscosity when its hot
Therefore, the second number is whats more important right and the first number is only important in colder temperatures (like when it hits the negatives)?
#21
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What possesses you to spend $90 for oil????? Please tell me the benefits outweigh the costs by about 110% otherwise I dont see a justification? It's a lot of money for student, hell, its a lot of money even for me, I tried to bump down the MA rotary oil price as much as I could lol
#22
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![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The clearances are also the same so a thicker grade oil 15w40 GTX3 (mineral) would pump OK.
#23
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Correct me if im wrong, but:
the first number is the viscosity when its cold
W = winter
the second number is the viscosity when its hot
Therefore, the second number is whats more important right and the first number is only important in colder temperatures (like when it hits the negatives)?
the first number is the viscosity when its cold
W = winter
the second number is the viscosity when its hot
Therefore, the second number is whats more important right and the first number is only important in colder temperatures (like when it hits the negatives)?
#24
Super Moderator
Correct me if im wrong, but:
the first number is the viscosity when its cold
W = winter
the second number is the viscosity when its hot
Therefore, the second number is whats more important right and the first number is only important in colder temperatures (like when it hits the negatives)?
the first number is the viscosity when its cold
W = winter
the second number is the viscosity when its hot
Therefore, the second number is whats more important right and the first number is only important in colder temperatures (like when it hits the negatives)?
So using 15W40 as an example the 40 degree Celsius temp is what we in Australia should use, a 5W30? how often does it get down to 5 degrees in Australia? and 30 max in Summer is an average summer temperature (well at least in SA). So why would you not use a 15w40.
Auzoom,,
I was always under the impression that the oil numbers are it min and max operating temps as a consumer guide in selecting the correct oils, at least old Mazda owners books and manuals say it that way.
Last edited by ASH8; 12-03-2007 at 04:31 AM.
#25
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What possesses you to spend $90 for oil????? Please tell me the benefits outweigh the costs by about 110% otherwise I dont see a justification? It's a lot of money for student, hell, its a lot of money even for me, I tried to bump down the MA rotary oil price as much as I could lol
I have only just started to use this oil (had mobil in before), have heard that RP is ment to be good for rotaries, and didnt know how much the rotary oil costs at mazda (assumed it would be an arm and a leg).
Meh, its not like I gotta change it every week, however I cant say that I notice anything different with the oils (besides that it looks alot cleaner when checking the levels compaired to when I used mobil)