Power loss advice - pretty please!
#26
'06 Nats coolest car!
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Well - according to the dealer there's no problem with my car. They had it for the day, checked plugs, coils, cat and said that everything's fine - and that the power is normal!
I said that's not my experience when I drive my car - and it still isn't. Nothing's changed.
But if they can't diagnose what's wrong I imagine they probably couldn't fix it either. Oh, and I'm out of warranty now anyway. Think I'll take it to a rotary specialist - I don't think Mazda dealers are rotary specialists.
Watch this space.
I said that's not my experience when I drive my car - and it still isn't. Nothing's changed.
But if they can't diagnose what's wrong I imagine they probably couldn't fix it either. Oh, and I'm out of warranty now anyway. Think I'll take it to a rotary specialist - I don't think Mazda dealers are rotary specialists.
Watch this space.
#27
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Auzoom, Taka and myself are going to dyno our RX8 just to make sure we know what our baseline figure is like. Perhaps it is a good idea to join us Will - if there is still a spot available. It'll be this Saturday.
#31
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https://www.rx8club.com/australia-new-zealand-forum-37/%5Bvic%5D-exe-dyno-day-%2435-per-car-3-runs-printed-result-100158/ Here is the link. See you around 11am
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#37
'06 Nats coolest car!
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OK... here's what I did today after the dyno yesterday showed (we thought) a slight lack of torque below 4000 revs (but it was all fine above that):
Cleaned the MAF sensor (there's a good description HERE)
Did a 3-part ECU reset:
1. Disonnect the battery, press brake pedal for 10+ secs, reconnect battery
2. Odometer reset - press tripmeter button in while turning on the ignition, keep it pressed until 'test' appears in the odometer display)
3. Brake pedal reset - turn on ignition, press brake pedal 20 times in under 8 secs, oil pressure gauge moves in confirmation
Then I started the car and let it idle for 10 minutes, turned the wheels full left then full right to reset the DSC, and drove to Healesville and back (great day for it!) without the aircon on.
It feels MUCH better, I reckon - the idle is clean again, and there's a much smoother and more progressive power delivery.
We'll see what it's like over the next few days!
Cleaned the MAF sensor (there's a good description HERE)
Did a 3-part ECU reset:
1. Disonnect the battery, press brake pedal for 10+ secs, reconnect battery
2. Odometer reset - press tripmeter button in while turning on the ignition, keep it pressed until 'test' appears in the odometer display)
3. Brake pedal reset - turn on ignition, press brake pedal 20 times in under 8 secs, oil pressure gauge moves in confirmation
Then I started the car and let it idle for 10 minutes, turned the wheels full left then full right to reset the DSC, and drove to Healesville and back (great day for it!) without the aircon on.
It feels MUCH better, I reckon - the idle is clean again, and there's a much smoother and more progressive power delivery.
We'll see what it's like over the next few days!
#40
'06 Nats coolest car!
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Update...
The symptoms hadn't fully gone away after last weekend's drive, so Simon at Promaz took a look today.
He found that one of the (new at 60K service) spark plugs was loose, and also that the leading plugs they'd put in were hotter than standard plugs (6 instead of 7). So he put in some 7s (and some new 9s trailing) and cleaned the throttle body too. I'll see it's like after a bit more driving; the initial impression is good but not yet great. He suggests one step at a time...
I'll look at the coils next - maybe it's easy to do them myself.
It was good to be driven in his (FI'ed) 8, too...
EDIT: as it says elsewhere on here, the hotter plugs are a warranty fix by Mazda, apparently to try and reduce plug fouling.
The symptoms hadn't fully gone away after last weekend's drive, so Simon at Promaz took a look today.
He found that one of the (new at 60K service) spark plugs was loose, and also that the leading plugs they'd put in were hotter than standard plugs (6 instead of 7). So he put in some 7s (and some new 9s trailing) and cleaned the throttle body too. I'll see it's like after a bit more driving; the initial impression is good but not yet great. He suggests one step at a time...
I'll look at the coils next - maybe it's easy to do them myself.
It was good to be driven in his (FI'ed) 8, too...
EDIT: as it says elsewhere on here, the hotter plugs are a warranty fix by Mazda, apparently to try and reduce plug fouling.
Last edited by yellowrx8inoz; 10-30-2006 at 03:05 AM.
#41
Hmmmmmm.........
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That reminds me...Anyone looking for a turbo'd black RX-8 should contact Simon at ProMaz.
Will, I was reading a post yesterday about how easy it was to change the coils. I am also going to Mazda tomorrow to have my plugs looked at.
Will, I was reading a post yesterday about how easy it was to change the coils. I am also going to Mazda tomorrow to have my plugs looked at.
#43
Hmmmmmm.........
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depending how much they are I might just ask Mazda to change them. I read that there are new coils around but not sure if they are better in any way.
Was also looking at the Denso (Colder) Iridium Racing plugs http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1416844
Was also looking at the Denso (Colder) Iridium Racing plugs http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1416844
#46
Hmmmmmm.........
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Unfortunately I wont have them installed by Wakefield Dave. And Mazda decided that the fix to my problems wasn't plugs but an ECU Flash and to change my aftermarket leads back to factory. I took the flash but have booked on with ProMaz to have my plugs and leads changed.
Last edited by auzoom; 11-03-2006 at 01:40 AM.
#47
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Originally Posted by auzoom
Unfortunately I wont have them installed by Wakefield Dave.
#48
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Originally Posted by auzoom
Mazda decided that the fix to my problems wasn't plugs but an ECU Flash and to change my aftermarket leads back to factory. I took the flash but have booked on with ProMaz to have my plugs and leads changed.
Nooooooo No problem here Mazda!!!