rx8 computer wiring
#3
Re: rx8 computer wiring
Originally posted by RIC SHAW
help!!!!
i need a ecu pin out diagram. a wiring fig for the rx8 computer. any one please.
help!!!!
i need a ecu pin out diagram. a wiring fig for the rx8 computer. any one please.
michael
#4
Ric,
I know this is not exactly what you are looking for, but the OBDII port uses CAN (ISO15765 & SAE J2534). I purchased that SAE document last week, and am having an interesting read at the moment
Also, there is a good thread related to this. It doesn't have pinouts as such of the computer itself, but some pictures and good discussion.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=10988
Cheers,
Hymee.
I know this is not exactly what you are looking for, but the OBDII port uses CAN (ISO15765 & SAE J2534). I purchased that SAE document last week, and am having an interesting read at the moment
Also, there is a good thread related to this. It doesn't have pinouts as such of the computer itself, but some pictures and good discussion.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=10988
Cheers,
Hymee.
#6
Haven't got it all downloaded yet ... https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=16678
... but it can't hurt to have it - whatever it is :D
... but it can't hurt to have it - whatever it is :D
#9
I'd like to investigate how to put a pulse/waveform on the front wheel sensors to trick the computer not to go into "safe mode" on the dyno. From yeterdays dyno session it appeard obvious to my independant, experienced operator that something was going on. The Hymee Catback started to show some promise until the ECU seemed to start holding things back. Unless we hook in a compatible scan tool / data logger we won't be able to see what is really going on (timing taken out, fuel dumped in etc). He needs to get an updated ODBII interface, as the RX-8 uses a newer CAN protocol.
Any hardware buffs out there want to have a crack at a "wheel spinner" simulator?
Cheers,
Hymee.
Any hardware buffs out there want to have a crack at a "wheel spinner" simulator?
Cheers,
Hymee.
#13
Thanks for the tipoff Kev.
Anybody know where we can get any other service information or manuals?
The Mazdatechinfo site apparently has the whole lot (which I've seen quoted as 2700 pages) available on a pay to view basis, but it seems to need a US credit card.
Mazdatechinfo site
I imagine that it's already all been downloaded by US enthusiasts, but no doubt there are copyright/piracy issues involved. So presumably those who have them won't be shouting about it.
Mazda Australia seem keen to keep it all within the dealer network for as long as they can. I asked if I could buy the set of manuals and got the runaround. Initially they gave a bunch of lame excuses about needing to print more first. When I pointed out that it would cost almost nothing in time and money to burn some more CDs they then said they might consider it, but they'd cost over $1000. When that didn't appear to frighten me off there was a bit of mumbling about how they have to look into it all. They didn't get back to me though.
I've no doubt that they do have them available, but the system involves selling them to the dealers only first (at a fairly substantial premium for exclusive rights in Australia). Then later (which can be 2 years or more) they sell the copyright to Bookworks who can print commercially available versions.
Understandable, but a pain to genuine enthusiasts who just want to work on their own cars, not set up rival workshops.
Anybody know where we can get any other service information or manuals?
The Mazdatechinfo site apparently has the whole lot (which I've seen quoted as 2700 pages) available on a pay to view basis, but it seems to need a US credit card.
Mazdatechinfo site
I imagine that it's already all been downloaded by US enthusiasts, but no doubt there are copyright/piracy issues involved. So presumably those who have them won't be shouting about it.
Mazda Australia seem keen to keep it all within the dealer network for as long as they can. I asked if I could buy the set of manuals and got the runaround. Initially they gave a bunch of lame excuses about needing to print more first. When I pointed out that it would cost almost nothing in time and money to burn some more CDs they then said they might consider it, but they'd cost over $1000. When that didn't appear to frighten me off there was a bit of mumbling about how they have to look into it all. They didn't get back to me though.
I've no doubt that they do have them available, but the system involves selling them to the dealers only first (at a fairly substantial premium for exclusive rights in Australia). Then later (which can be 2 years or more) they sell the copyright to Bookworks who can print commercially available versions.
Understandable, but a pain to genuine enthusiasts who just want to work on their own cars, not set up rival workshops.
#14
(I posted this elsewhere - but incase you missed it...)
Guys - I have been thinking (maybe that is a bad idea ) They (Mazda) say the only way to measure engine power is on an engine dyno. That part is correct. But on an engine dyno you still need your ECU hooked up, as it is what is controlling what is going on... So what about the wheels turning etc... when they are not even there? Then it hit me like a light bulb. Are you thinking what I'm thinking???
Instead of fooling the computer to think the front wheels are going the same speed at the rear wheels - why not disconnect the rear wheel sensors, and make the computer think the rear wheels are going the same speed as the front - 0 RPM???
Worthy of injecting into the discussion I think!
Cheers,
Hymee.
Guys - I have been thinking (maybe that is a bad idea ) They (Mazda) say the only way to measure engine power is on an engine dyno. That part is correct. But on an engine dyno you still need your ECU hooked up, as it is what is controlling what is going on... So what about the wheels turning etc... when they are not even there? Then it hit me like a light bulb. Are you thinking what I'm thinking???
Instead of fooling the computer to think the front wheels are going the same speed at the rear wheels - why not disconnect the rear wheel sensors, and make the computer think the rear wheels are going the same speed as the front - 0 RPM???
Worthy of injecting into the discussion I think!
Cheers,
Hymee.
#15
Friggin' awesome idea. I know guys in the states do the opposite, ie rewire the signal from the back wheels to the front wheel sensors, but your idea sounds a lot easier. Lets just hope disconnecting the rear wheel sensors doesn't require indicator-like-zen!
#16
OK - go disconnect them and see if it drives OK!
Carefully, carefully.
If that works - then it is off to PT again!
BTW - I sent my ideas to Mark at PT via PM to see what he reckons.
Carefully, carefully.
If that works - then it is off to PT again!
BTW - I sent my ideas to Mark at PT via PM to see what he reckons.
#18
Ah well - that was interesting. I should stop having those crazy ideas...
Disconnecting the front sensors (same Zen rating as front indicators, gotten to up inside the inner guard) made the same lights come on as we see on the Dyno - the ABS light, and the Car/Wiggly lines picture. But it goes to that condition as soon as the Ignition is turned on. Reconnecting, restarting, and driving forward resets the warning lights once you get to about 12 km/h.
Diconnecting the rear sensors (these have a lower Zen rating, and can be gotten to from behind the boot trim) has the same effect. An interesting side effect was the power steer de-activated shortly after I got mobile, and threw it's light. Reconnecting and restarting reset things once I was moving again, just like the fronts.
So the next thing is to find out what they do to parallel the fronts into the rears, or find out if a simple resistor (or something more complex) could do the job.
Cheers,
Hymee
Disconnecting the front sensors (same Zen rating as front indicators, gotten to up inside the inner guard) made the same lights come on as we see on the Dyno - the ABS light, and the Car/Wiggly lines picture. But it goes to that condition as soon as the Ignition is turned on. Reconnecting, restarting, and driving forward resets the warning lights once you get to about 12 km/h.
Diconnecting the rear sensors (these have a lower Zen rating, and can be gotten to from behind the boot trim) has the same effect. An interesting side effect was the power steer de-activated shortly after I got mobile, and threw it's light. Reconnecting and restarting reset things once I was moving again, just like the fronts.
So the next thing is to find out what they do to parallel the fronts into the rears, or find out if a simple resistor (or something more complex) could do the job.
Cheers,
Hymee
#19
Thanks for your brave pioneering work Hymee. What a shame it wasn't that easy. The RX-8 sounds like everything else electronic - if it stops working.... turn it off, tap you foot for a few seconds, then turn it back on again and hey presto! The same trick fixes 90% of the problems on my work vehicle too.
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