Stance coilovers in stock!!!!!
#81
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I haven't posted in here in awhile, but I think it's time I did.
I've been to four events so far this season. In the first event, I was second overall on index and since then I've taken FTDI at every one.
Yesterday we had an event with 84 total drivers. I was the fastest car on street tires, and only about a half-second off the fastest car with fenders, which was on race tires.
I haven't made many adjustments to the coilovers since last season. I lowered the rear slightly, since I am running narrower tires, but other than that my settings are the same.
I'll probably post more in the STX thread on the competition forum, but I wanted to say a big 'thank you' to Rishie and Stance! I've never done so well, and the support they gave me last season laid the foundation for my success so far this year.
I've been to four events so far this season. In the first event, I was second overall on index and since then I've taken FTDI at every one.
Yesterday we had an event with 84 total drivers. I was the fastest car on street tires, and only about a half-second off the fastest car with fenders, which was on race tires.
I haven't made many adjustments to the coilovers since last season. I lowered the rear slightly, since I am running narrower tires, but other than that my settings are the same.
I'll probably post more in the STX thread on the competition forum, but I wanted to say a big 'thank you' to Rishie and Stance! I've never done so well, and the support they gave me last season laid the foundation for my success so far this year.
#83
I haven't posted in here in awhile, but I think it's time I did.
I've been to four events so far this season. In the first event, I was second overall on index and since then I've taken FTDI at every one.
Yesterday we had an event with 84 total drivers. I was the fastest car on street tires, and only about a half-second off the fastest car with fenders, which was on race tires.
I haven't made many adjustments to the coilovers since last season. I lowered the rear slightly, since I am running narrower tires, but other than that my settings are the same.
I'll probably post more in the STX thread on the competition forum, but I wanted to say a big 'thank you' to Rishie and Stance! I've never done so well, and the support they gave me last season laid the foundation for my success so far this year.
I've been to four events so far this season. In the first event, I was second overall on index and since then I've taken FTDI at every one.
Yesterday we had an event with 84 total drivers. I was the fastest car on street tires, and only about a half-second off the fastest car with fenders, which was on race tires.
I haven't made many adjustments to the coilovers since last season. I lowered the rear slightly, since I am running narrower tires, but other than that my settings are the same.
I'll probably post more in the STX thread on the competition forum, but I wanted to say a big 'thank you' to Rishie and Stance! I've never done so well, and the support they gave me last season laid the foundation for my success so far this year.
+1
Though I haven't actually tracked my car since installing the coilovers, I have driven it quite a few thousand miles (+10,000). And I am 100% satisfied. I can't even tell you how many people have been impressed with the "Stance" of the car as well as the ride quality. Big ups to Stance and Rishie!
<----------Satisfied customer
#84
悪魔のR
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It's funny how I keep hearing everyone wanting 6k rear. A lot of the cars I drive with lower spring rates, I don't really enjoy that much and I feel like the feedback is awkward, yet with my 10k and 7k, it feels excellent, and even a national champ or two that have driven my car agree. Interesting to always hear that though. I'm also running 8 clicks from soft. But regardless, very happy with these coilovers, and highly recommend to anyone. People love watching my car take slaloms and offsets because the car is already settled, and it just moves like one of those dogs in a dog show going between cones. :D
#85
Former Sponsor
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It's funny how I keep hearing everyone wanting 6k rear. A lot of the cars I drive with lower spring rates, I don't really enjoy that much and I feel like the feedback is awkward, yet with my 10k and 7k, it feels excellent, and even a national champ or two that have driven my car agree. Interesting to always hear that though. I'm also running 8 clicks from soft. But regardless, very happy with these coilovers, and highly recommend to anyone. People love watching my car take slaloms and offsets because the car is already settled, and it just moves like one of those dogs in a dog show going between cones. :D
I switched around and stick with my 10K/7K as well....
I switched out to the 200mm rear spring instead of the 175mm spring though.
anyone do that??
what do you run Rishie??
did you get our message earlier today BTW??
Adam
THM
#86
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I was working on a car all day today so didn't get a chance to check the vm, i'll do that right now. Please leave the messages on 2#, wholesale line.
I traded in my RX8 a year ago. I was running the Endless/Zeal combo on my 8 when I had it.
Rishie
I traded in my RX8 a year ago. I was running the Endless/Zeal combo on my 8 when I had it.
Rishie
#88
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Alright so I made a video of how to setup the REAR RX8 coilovers. They have an unconventional design so I took the initiative to give you the basics.
Step 1: Reset all spring preloads
Step 2: Install on car
Step 3: Put car on ground and take baseline measurements
Step 4: Determine where you want the car to sit.
i.e. If car is ground to fender at 25" and you want 26", please note the 1" Difference or whatever the delta is on each corner.
Step 5: Put car back in air. Adjust front coilover lower brackets with their respective "delta" value. Meaning up or down 1", whichever direction. Since we're raising the car the bracket goes in a direction to "lengthen" the unit.
VIDEO WILL HELP YOU HERE" STEP 6
Step 6: REAR COILS: remove lower bolt so that the coilover has some room to drop the spring. you might need to remove a suspension arm to gain clearance. Remove spring, then loosen the small inner collar that remains so you can adjust the ride height/inner tube by 1".
Step 7: Once bracket is position and locked into place you can install the spring, washer, spring perch, and locking collar. Add the preload back to the spring.
HERE'S THE PROBLEM PEOPLE HAD AND NOW YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO VISUALIZE IT:
1. WHEN YOU RAISE OR LENGTHEN THE REAR DAMPER, IT REMOVES PRELOAD FROM THE SPRING SO YOU NEED TO ADD PRELOAD BACK TO IT.
2. WHEN YOU LOWER OR SHORTEN THE REAR DAMPER, IT ADDS PRELOAD TO THE SPRING SO YOU NEED TO LOOSEN IT BACK TO NORMAL PRELOAD.
BY RULE OF THUMB FOR THE REAR YOU SHOULD ALWAYS REMOVE PRELOAD OR SPRING ALTOGETHER BEFORE MAKING THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENTS. THEN PUT THE SPRING BACK OR ADD PRELOAD BACK AFTERWARDS.
Rishie
Step 1: Reset all spring preloads
Step 2: Install on car
Step 3: Put car on ground and take baseline measurements
Step 4: Determine where you want the car to sit.
i.e. If car is ground to fender at 25" and you want 26", please note the 1" Difference or whatever the delta is on each corner.
Step 5: Put car back in air. Adjust front coilover lower brackets with their respective "delta" value. Meaning up or down 1", whichever direction. Since we're raising the car the bracket goes in a direction to "lengthen" the unit.
VIDEO WILL HELP YOU HERE" STEP 6
Step 6: REAR COILS: remove lower bolt so that the coilover has some room to drop the spring. you might need to remove a suspension arm to gain clearance. Remove spring, then loosen the small inner collar that remains so you can adjust the ride height/inner tube by 1".
Step 7: Once bracket is position and locked into place you can install the spring, washer, spring perch, and locking collar. Add the preload back to the spring.
HERE'S THE PROBLEM PEOPLE HAD AND NOW YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO VISUALIZE IT:
1. WHEN YOU RAISE OR LENGTHEN THE REAR DAMPER, IT REMOVES PRELOAD FROM THE SPRING SO YOU NEED TO ADD PRELOAD BACK TO IT.
2. WHEN YOU LOWER OR SHORTEN THE REAR DAMPER, IT ADDS PRELOAD TO THE SPRING SO YOU NEED TO LOOSEN IT BACK TO NORMAL PRELOAD.
BY RULE OF THUMB FOR THE REAR YOU SHOULD ALWAYS REMOVE PRELOAD OR SPRING ALTOGETHER BEFORE MAKING THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENTS. THEN PUT THE SPRING BACK OR ADD PRELOAD BACK AFTERWARDS.
Rishie
Last edited by Endless Rotaries; 12-09-2009 at 12:29 AM.
#94
The Angry Wheelchair
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Rishie, you need to clear out your msg box, it's full.
On a separate note, I got the coilovers but there is no adjuster cables with them for adjusting the rears. There is also no information whatsoever included in regards to installation, or instructions for them. Can you look into getting these out? Thanks.
On a separate note, I got the coilovers but there is no adjuster cables with them for adjusting the rears. There is also no information whatsoever included in regards to installation, or instructions for them. Can you look into getting these out? Thanks.
Last edited by Vlaze; 03-14-2010 at 10:13 PM.
#95
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Vlaze please send me an email sales@autornd.com with this information. As for instructions, hehe, that's a good one. I think you'll need to simply use my "preload" and ride hight training video along with some good ol' common sense.
I will definitely get some cables sent out to you BUT PLEASE EMAIL ME SO I CAN FORWARD TO STANCE. This happened on another order as well.
Thanks, Rishie
I will definitely get some cables sent out to you BUT PLEASE EMAIL ME SO I CAN FORWARD TO STANCE. This happened on another order as well.
Thanks, Rishie
#97
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Rishie, you need to clear out your msg box, it's full.
On a separate note, I got the coilovers but there is no adjuster cables with them for adjusting the rears. There is also no information whatsoever included in regards to installation, or instructions for them. Can you look into getting these out? Thanks.
On a separate note, I got the coilovers but there is no adjuster cables with them for adjusting the rears. There is also no information whatsoever included in regards to installation, or instructions for them. Can you look into getting these out? Thanks.
Rear:
1. Disconnect headlight leveling sensor (may not be present on your car) from lower control arm.
2. Disconnect rear swaybar endlinks.
3. Remove inboard bolts for lower control arms (the ones you just disconnected the swaybar from).
4. Remove trunk lining.
5. Remove middle strut hardware (two nuts accessible from inside the trunk, one bolt from outside the car)
6. Remove upper strut bolts (way at the top of the strut, accesible from inside the trunk).
7. Remove stock coilover.
8. Install Stance coilover.
9. Reassemble.
Front:
1. Remove strut brace.
2. Disconnect swaybar endlinks.
3. Remove inboard bolts from upper wishbone.
4. Remove upper strut mounting hardware (3 nuts and a plate).
5. Install Stance coilover.
6. Reassemble.
I'm certain I forgot one or two steps in there. You may find that you need to remove more hardware to wrestle the stock coilovers out and the new ones in. The more I do it, the less I remove.
The process takes me under three hours these days; the rears take me about an hour and a half and the fronts about 45min. It's more difficult to get the stock coilovers back in, I find.
REMEMBER TO SUPPORT THE CAR SECURELY ON JACK STANDS, and follow my directions at your own risk.
By the way, I won my local autocross championship last season. I absolutely destroyed everybody locally. I attempted my first two national-level events and did alright, finishing in the top half in both. Thanks again to Rishie and Stance. I look forward to building on what I learned last season.
#98
The Angry Wheelchair
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^ I read up on your comments regarding your experience with Stance which was part of my motivation getting them myself, good stuff. I figured there wasn't going to be step by step installation instructions and with what both you and Rishie already have provided it's more than sufficient.
However I did read there was some information along with them in regards to what changes in the dampening per adjustment on the shocks and so forth, basic stuff I thought should of been included with any typical adjustable shock.
However I did read there was some information along with them in regards to what changes in the dampening per adjustment on the shocks and so forth, basic stuff I thought should of been included with any typical adjustable shock.
#99
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I couldn't tell you what's 'typical.' The only adjustable dampers I've bought are these and the set of Koni Sports I put on my MR2. Maybe you're more familiar with adjustable suspension parts than I am, but neither came with any directions other than 'turn this way for stiff and that way for soft.'
If it's advice you're looking for, I can offer you this. I have mine set very soft in the adjustment range. The fronts are set to full soft and the rears are two clicks up from there. Honestly, if I could set the fronts a little softer than that, even, I would.
If it's advice you're looking for, I can offer you this. I have mine set very soft in the adjustment range. The fronts are set to full soft and the rears are two clicks up from there. Honestly, if I could set the fronts a little softer than that, even, I would.