REV-illusions

iTrader: (3)

oh.. and performance improvements has a sale on right now.. 155 for optima red tops :D

and a gas powered blender: "Amuse your friends, and annoy your neighbours" for only 269!

Bah... they PI only has silver in stock for the G2 kits

Thumper3322

+1 for high gloss!

rx8thunder

Didn't realize that... back to crappy tire for a refund. where you getting g2 from?

rx8thunder

Performance Improvement doesn't sell G2. JRP doesn't either.

Maybe we should order form the states -- as a group. Would be good if we could get stickers added to delivery. Tirerack sells G2 for $38.

Maybe we can get sticker people to buy g2 locally for us and ship with stickers via courier to arrive before the weekend?

prospectjtaz

iTrader: (1)

its like 41 bucks for the stuff at performance improvements.

Waiting on reply from decal guy

rx8thunder

The loser I talked to at the Brampton store said they didn't carry it? WTF? Which store did you talk to?

UPDATE: They no longer carry it, they cannot get it. They do have stock of blue though -- been sitting in inventory for a while. US is our only option

rx8thunder

Checking into these stickers as I would prefer curved Mazdaspeed sticker over rx8 one

rotarygreg

scott, i photocopied the page fromt he FSM about the maplight assy. removal. would you like me to scan it and PM you, or do you want me to just bring it with on saturday? Basically, there is a little tab you have to push in with the screwdriver, but you will need the picture to know where the tab is as you wont be able to see it until you have the hole thing out.

10am...you guys gonna still be doing stuff when i get there? I probably wont get there until like 2:30-3ish.

and marc, about the wiring thing, everyone has there way of doing it guess. the right way though for sure is soldering and heatshrinking over top. thats the best way, perfect connection and sealed from the elements. yes, the C crimp connectors and all those other things work, but in a few years when all that moisture in our atmosphere gets hold of it and starts corroding wires and you start burning bulbs, fuses, maybe even harnesses...its worth the extra effort on the long run.

DarkBrew

Hey, pros, I still have to do my tranny and diff fluid changes as well

rx8thunder

Thanks Greg, please bring the instructions with you. We will definitely still be modding when you arrive

rx8thunder

Yeah, going to put an order in? Do you want me to order bushing for you?

rotarygreg

I used silcone grease on my bushings and they dont make a sound. I tightened the hell out of them too. Silcone is the best lube with anything rubber IMO because there is no chance of it ruining the rubber at all.

droob

Hey

I've got an Agency pulley I've been meaning to install. Is there anybody going who could give a hand? Wish I knew about this sooner I just did plugs last weekend.

Also Thumper have these guys all seen your PRM intake? I just got mine, how's yours running? You took out all the VFAD ducting right?

rx8thunder

^ I'm sure there will be someone who can lend a hand, come on out. I will PM you the address

Thief

So Chris... it happened tonight as we discussed. About 8 stalls and an equal number of recoveries. Though my baby is none the worse for wear.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

I've done all the interior light changes before, so I can assist with anything related to that.

As for the footwell wiring, yes soldering and heatshrinking is the sure fire way to do it. However, given the space constraints, the loads in concern, and the environment to which it is exposed, using the crappy splicers is sufficient. If they go bad, you can always replace them.

Leave a little extra slack so that if it goes bad, you have room to fix it properly.

For the record, my footwells are wired with crappy splicers and labelled correctly for future review since Dec 2007, and I have no problems with them.

To address the concern of moisture and shorts. That cannot happen. You are dealing with 12V, and less than 100mA current. You're not going to get any arcing at those voltages. Once you use electrical tape and package everything properly and secure wires so they're not hanging around, it's good enough.

The worse you will get is a disconnection which means "flickering" in the footwell. if that happens, then you know you have to repair it, cause you didn't do a good job.

prospectjtaz

iTrader: (1)

I rather be safe than sorry, doesn't hurt to go the extra mile. My exhaust is already trying to burn my bumper, I don't need my trunk trying to burn off my spoiler.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

There are certain level of acceptable risks with all wiring installs. There's no doubt soldering is the best; but I wish you good luck trying to solder wires in the footwell area of the driver seat

Risk Management FTW!

prospectjtaz

iTrader: (1)

Who want's to cruise to thunder's house from Fairview on Saturday morning?

prospectjtaz

iTrader: (1)

I don't think we're soldering those wires. We're just soldering the connections the resistors will be making to the turn signals in the trunk area. Then we're heat shrinking them.

rx8thunder

^ So footman, what connectors do i need to buy for the footwell install?

Footman

iTrader: (2)

You need to buy the "quick splice" connectors... for AWG 16 - 22 size. What you will be using is AWG 18 wire. Preferably get black and white, as that is standard CSA color code for 2-wire connections.

rx8thunder

^ ok, will do. thx

Thumper3322

I like the curved ones! But hard to read and still gonna do RX 8 ones for me.

There is a DIY on removing that assy as well.

I wouldn't mind givin ya a hand (no idea how to do it) but interested. YUP everyone saw it last week on the cruise where the hell where you lol. Love it running perfect! U?? Yup I took it out when I had the MS CAI.

+1 I'm in!

I have lots of left over C clamps that footman mentioned. Left over from DRL/Fog rewire, anyone can have them.

REV-illusions

iTrader: (3)

I talked to the Toronto location... the manager was saying that he has the silver in stock in that location.. but is unable to get anything else. So if Pro's wants he's good to go.

According to G2's site the paint has a shelf life of about 6 months... if it's in one of the new containers.. about 18months. After that the seal / gloss starts to harden and it's useless.

I'm not sure at this point... If you're going to order from tirerack.. then I'll get in on that... the black. If not... then.. I don't know... was talking with Al yesterday and he was mentioning that the trimclad crap (high temp paint) would work just as well... but... I'd still rather the G2 stuff... heat resistant to like 980' and it's garanteed not to chip or fade.