MS Exhaust rattle: *Info owners should know*
#1
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Dodging those Corollas
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From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
MS Exhaust rattle: *Info owners should know*
FYI to peeps that own the MS Exhaust...
I bought mine in 2008. Around spring 2009, it started to develop a rattle. The rattle is not heat shields, or broken chunks of the CAT. It's a rattle cause by cracked welds between the final exhaust tips and the canisters (before the bend).
At first, I thought it may have been a manufacturing defect, so under MS parts 1 year warranty, I had mine replaced in spring 2009.
Now onto my 2nd MS Exhaust, the rattle is back, and the same issue is happening. The same welds are cracking making the exhaust tips dislocate themselves from the canister slowly.
The rattling noise occurs only under load between 1000 - 2000 rpm, and it happens again somewhere between 2200 - 2800 rpm. There are precisely two frequencies to which it rattles. Therefore, in city driving during rush hour, you look like a ricer with a shitty *** exhaust as it rattles everytime you move 10 ft and stop.
The rattling sounds like a tin can ringing. After one drives the car for awhile and the exhaust is all up to temp, if you stop to get out and kick the tips you can hear the same rattle.
The solution is to reinforce the joint with additional welding. I had the joint welded with additional solder today, and it fixed the rattling.
I hope this information is useful for someone in the future.
Car is:
- Canadian winter climate
- Daily driven
I don't know if environmental factors play a role in the rapid deterioration of the weld joints.
I bought mine in 2008. Around spring 2009, it started to develop a rattle. The rattle is not heat shields, or broken chunks of the CAT. It's a rattle cause by cracked welds between the final exhaust tips and the canisters (before the bend).
At first, I thought it may have been a manufacturing defect, so under MS parts 1 year warranty, I had mine replaced in spring 2009.
Now onto my 2nd MS Exhaust, the rattle is back, and the same issue is happening. The same welds are cracking making the exhaust tips dislocate themselves from the canister slowly.
The rattling noise occurs only under load between 1000 - 2000 rpm, and it happens again somewhere between 2200 - 2800 rpm. There are precisely two frequencies to which it rattles. Therefore, in city driving during rush hour, you look like a ricer with a shitty *** exhaust as it rattles everytime you move 10 ft and stop.
The rattling sounds like a tin can ringing. After one drives the car for awhile and the exhaust is all up to temp, if you stop to get out and kick the tips you can hear the same rattle.
The solution is to reinforce the joint with additional welding. I had the joint welded with additional solder today, and it fixed the rattling.
I hope this information is useful for someone in the future.
Car is:
- Canadian winter climate
- Daily driven
I don't know if environmental factors play a role in the rapid deterioration of the weld joints.
#11
#13
Thread Starter
Dodging those Corollas
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
My friend's shop. If any of you need it welded... just $20 a pop. He welded mine, and of course backs up his work.
If you need your exhaust tips weld/reinforced, let me know and I'll help you arrange it with him. He is located near McCowan / 7 (Bullock drive).
If you need your exhaust tips weld/reinforced, let me know and I'll help you arrange it with him. He is located near McCowan / 7 (Bullock drive).
#14
Thread Starter
Dodging those Corollas
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
So far, there has been no reports of this from any Racing Beat owner. Perhaps there is truth that the RB Exhaust is a higher quality product than Mazdaspeed's.
I know the RB is individually welded by a person, while the Mazdaspeed one is machine welded by robots on an assembly line.
Shame on you Mazda!
I know the RB is individually welded by a person, while the Mazdaspeed one is machine welded by robots on an assembly line.
Shame on you Mazda!
#15
Thanks for the info Footman! Will send you a pm when I'm back from HK.
That rattling sound is killing me.
That rattling sound is killing me.
#16
________
COACH PURSES
Last edited by 2hit6; 05-02-2011 at 11:46 PM.
#21
Do you have a manufacture date on your exhaust? I've got the exact same (dual canister) MS exhaust, and I don't have any of the rattling sounds. I checked the welds last time the car was up on the hoist, and other than the standard discolouration, they seem to be intact. Were the welds completely cracked and flaking off or just slighty cracking?
#23
Thread Starter
Dodging those Corollas
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From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
Amkorp,
The weld edges had noticable cracks. As in, you can see that weld material has expanded and is no longer flush with the canister.
I don't know if you drive your car in the winter or not, but I suspect this only happens to those who have MS Exhaust and drive in our winter. My hypothesis for the failures is the constant rapid expansion and cooling of the exhaust in the winter.
At speeds, in winter, air flow underneath car could be like -20 C, so the underside of the exhaust metal is being cooled off while the exhaust gas from the engine is like 900 F on the inside. The large temperature difference between the inside and the outside maybe causing fatigue to the weld material.
Moreover, all MS parts are *technically designed* for competition use where the climate is relatively consistently warm/hot. Never below 0 C.
The weld edges had noticable cracks. As in, you can see that weld material has expanded and is no longer flush with the canister.
I don't know if you drive your car in the winter or not, but I suspect this only happens to those who have MS Exhaust and drive in our winter. My hypothesis for the failures is the constant rapid expansion and cooling of the exhaust in the winter.
At speeds, in winter, air flow underneath car could be like -20 C, so the underside of the exhaust metal is being cooled off while the exhaust gas from the engine is like 900 F on the inside. The large temperature difference between the inside and the outside maybe causing fatigue to the weld material.
Moreover, all MS parts are *technically designed* for competition use where the climate is relatively consistently warm/hot. Never below 0 C.
#24
Ya that makes a lot of sense. I don't strictly store the car in the winter. I roll it around on occasion during the winter months. I suspect that may be why my welds are holding longer. I just checked my 1995 acura's exhaust welds last night, and they seem to be cracking in various places and that car is driven all year. What are your thoughts on the extra welds you got put on, do you think they will hold or will they be back to cracking in a year?
#25
Thread Starter
Dodging those Corollas
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From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
The extra welds should hold at least a year. I wouldn't consider this a design defect, as MS parts are not meant to be used in all-weather climate.
If you compare the stock exhaust with the MS exhaust... the stock one has an extra plate that forms like a 45 degree angle bolstering the exhaust tip with the canister. This means, there are now 3 points of weld: a) The pipe to the canister, b) one edge of the angle plate welded to the canister, and c) the other edge of the angle plate welded to the tip.
This triangle form probably gives it the strength and rigidity to last all-year round driving without vibrations for a lot longer than the MS one (after all, all exhausts in the end will break/crack over time).
Even if it cracks again next year around this time, simple spot welding will only cost me $20 to fix. It's an affordable maintenance for the MS Exhaust if driven all year round.
If you compare the stock exhaust with the MS exhaust... the stock one has an extra plate that forms like a 45 degree angle bolstering the exhaust tip with the canister. This means, there are now 3 points of weld: a) The pipe to the canister, b) one edge of the angle plate welded to the canister, and c) the other edge of the angle plate welded to the tip.
This triangle form probably gives it the strength and rigidity to last all-year round driving without vibrations for a lot longer than the MS one (after all, all exhausts in the end will break/crack over time).
Even if it cracks again next year around this time, simple spot welding will only cost me $20 to fix. It's an affordable maintenance for the MS Exhaust if driven all year round.