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Old 04-29-2011 | 09:59 AM
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Mazda Newmarket
Old 04-29-2011 | 10:07 AM
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you should check the service records and see if plugs and coils have been done as required according to the maintenance schedule.

once you can physically confirm that, then you might have other issues. But I would check, as mentioned above, to see if coils and plugs have been done, then check plug wires, and then see if the MAF sensor is clean.
Old 04-29-2011 | 10:11 AM
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other issues as in what..?
Old 04-29-2011 | 10:15 AM
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lol who knows, it could be a variety of things, heck even a lose spark plug.

But check the plugs and wires to see if they were replaced, check and see they are on tight, check the maf sensor, then check to see fuel economy.

the owners manual suggests gears for the speed you should be in. i think it was 0- 10 1st gear, 20 - 30 2nd, 30-40 - 4rd, .... 60+ 6th gear, but dont quote me on that.
Old 04-29-2011 | 10:17 AM
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okay ill give the dealership a call
im going to go through this tank first and see what i get.
would decarbing the engine help? is it expensive?
Old 04-29-2011 | 10:21 AM
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Nope $5 and an hour or two of your time.

Just buy a can of Seafoam at the local auto-parts store (liquid, not spray), pop the hood, disconnect the e-shaft sensor, remove the nipple from one of the lower intake manifold service ports, stick a tube over it that seals, drop the other end in the seafoam can, crank over the car (e-shaft sensor will prevent it from producing fuel injector or a spark) for about 10-15 seconds. Let it rest a minute, crank another 10-15, let it rest a minute, crank again.

Repeat with the 2nd service port, replacing the nipple on the first. Let everything sit for an hour to let it soak, then reconnect the e-shaft sensor and fire up the car. It's going to want to stall at first, and it's going to have alot of tailpipe smoke as it burns off the seafoam and disolved carbon.

There is a more accurate DIY around the site somewhere.

Or you can have the dealer do it all for maybe $60-$100, depending on the dealer.
Old 04-29-2011 | 10:35 AM
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yeah i just called the dealer they said around 100$
and if i were to do my plugs and coils would anybody help me instead of going to the dealer and dishing out 700$
Old 04-29-2011 | 10:36 AM
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If you have 2 hands and very common tools, you can do it with no help in less than an hour
Old 04-29-2011 | 10:39 AM
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I'm sure you can get some help if you can find anyone else local to you. Coils and Plugs are really easy to change even if you can't locate help. Just need the larger size plug socket (take a plug to the auto-parts store to make sure you are getting the right one), , a 10mm socket for the coils, a socket wrench with some extensions, either several small ones or a swivel-joint/u-joint/flex-joint. so you can get the rear rotor plugs from the wheel-well.

Easy stuff.
Old 04-29-2011 | 11:25 AM
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The manual's shift points are OVERLY conservative. You'll end up lugging the engine around and carbonizing everything.
Old 04-29-2011 | 11:26 AM
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Fera, search around, there are tons of threads on "NEW OWNERS: what you need to know", somewhere along those lines.

Ever tried BG44K? I haven't yet, I bought a can, and will try this weekend.
Old 04-29-2011 | 12:42 PM
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whats that? no i havent. ive read alot of the new owner threads
im going to clean the maf sensor for sure, and probably do a seafoam.
eventually towards the middle of the summer im going to change plugs and coils id rather have someone that knows what there doing to help me even though its an easy procedure.
Old 04-29-2011 | 01:33 PM
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its basically like a seafoam right
and i have a question

i just pulled my dipstick and there was some yellow buildup near the top
does this mean anything?
Old 04-29-2011 | 01:38 PM
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thats normal, i get that too, its just condensation. I asked my mechanic that too
Old 04-29-2011 | 01:44 PM
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thanks alot! thats a load off lol
Old 04-29-2011 | 02:17 PM
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The condensation in the oil DOES have negative side effects....
















...it scares new owners, causes them to post about it here, and get the long time owners irritated
Old 04-29-2011 | 02:37 PM
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its not in the oil, its just in the dipstick shaft.
Old 04-29-2011 | 02:40 PM
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It's in the oil too, you just don't see it down there, and it does tend to gather up the dipstick tube.

It's not a concern, I was just making a lighthearted comment towards the aggravation it causes the rest of us with the reoccuring question
Old 04-29-2011 | 02:41 PM
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lol k
Old 04-30-2011 | 04:17 PM
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You can also see this post re: where to get the plugs/coils/wires:
https://www.rx8club.com/canada-forum-35/coils-plugs-plug-wires-214906/

I am likely going to get mine done some time this summer.

Just got tires installed today and itching to go out for a drive
Old 05-03-2011 | 12:41 PM
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When it comes right down to it, changing the plugs, coils, and wires is never a bad thing, but if you do a lot of city driving, hitting 300k on a tank is like winning the lottery. A lot of highway driving, you'll break 350+ easy. It's the sitting in traffic idling, and constant stop and go that kills you. Not to mention the well-known but rarely mentioned fact that 8's are PIGS when it comes to go-juice. Harsh, I know, but the truth hurts sometimes. Fact is, none of us bought our 8's for the mpg.
Old 05-03-2011 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by lodi
Fact is, none of us bought our 8's for the mpg.
If you did the proper research before buying, you bought your 8 DESPITE the mpg!
Old 05-03-2011 | 01:17 PM
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You gotta pay to play
Old 05-04-2011 | 08:56 AM
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yeah, but for a 4 door sports car it does have some advantages... I can't exactly take my 2 kids in a 350z / 370z... mind you those are gas guzzlers too .

The smile on your face when you find that upper rev range is so worth it. Not to mention when you notice the kids staring at the car as you casually drive by the school.
Old 05-04-2011 | 08:57 AM
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So if this car had more power and better gas mileage it would be perfect?
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