No Block Heater for the rx8?
#1
No Block Heater for the rx8?
So I just called Probart Mazda, officially the worst mazda dealership I have ever dealt with, and they informed me that it is IMPOSSIBLE to have a block heater with the rx8. The reason being was that "it is not a normal engine".
My car is having some difficulty starting since it has been parked outdoors for the most part since december. Any suggestions?
My car is having some difficulty starting since it has been parked outdoors for the most part since december. Any suggestions?
#3
They're right.
Wouldnt do that much good anyway. Block heaters warm the oil, oil isnt the problem in this car with starting... 90% of the time anyway. Whats happening when you start it? Need more info. I live in Canada too, and have had no issue, even at colder than -20.. I was told the car should start to -45, provided the battery and plugs were good.
Wouldnt do that much good anyway. Block heaters warm the oil, oil isnt the problem in this car with starting... 90% of the time anyway. Whats happening when you start it? Need more info. I live in Canada too, and have had no issue, even at colder than -20.. I was told the car should start to -45, provided the battery and plugs were good.
#4
#5
^^ Good link. There were at least two or three other Canadian forum members here that have had block heaters installed. I believe they were Doctorr, Chrisss and Bean438(??). From what I remember, they had block heaters installed but they weren't "official" Mazda heaters. I'll find you a link
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=block+heater
Canadian8, did you get the latest recall done? I found that this year, the car starts up a bit quicker in -25C, vs last year's R flash(?). I attribute it to the new spark plugs or the new PCM program (not that I have any proof or anything).
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=block+heater
Canadian8, did you get the latest recall done? I found that this year, the car starts up a bit quicker in -25C, vs last year's R flash(?). I attribute it to the new spark plugs or the new PCM program (not that I have any proof or anything).
#6
Dealer....
I use a stick-on heater pad under the sump. Put it on after my first winter (spent whining to the dealer about the lack!) Dealer saw it during service and now STOCKS them, even though they are, of course, not official Mazda bits.
I think its 250 watts, and makes a huge difference. The block gets to about 5*C (about 40*F) even when it's -20* or so. I also have a 70 watt battery warmer pad, besides my 800 watt in-car warmer. All very necessary, and well used.....
S
I think its 250 watts, and makes a huge difference. The block gets to about 5*C (about 40*F) even when it's -20* or so. I also have a 70 watt battery warmer pad, besides my 800 watt in-car warmer. All very necessary, and well used.....
S
#7
Originally Posted by BlueFrenzy
Canadian8, did you get the latest recall done? I found that this year, the car starts up a bit quicker in -25C, vs last year's R flash(?). I attribute it to the new spark plugs or the new PCM program (not that I have any proof or anything).
#8
Flooded? Mine's been fine in the one year of ownership, it did crank and not start a few times until after two-three tries, in the past, but since the recent recall (got new sparks) I haven't had that yet.
I think the coldest I started her was in -29ish or worse...That was when I cracked a piece of my handbrake handle thingy trying to release it
I think the coldest I started her was in -29ish or worse...That was when I cracked a piece of my handbrake handle thingy trying to release it
Last edited by LiTTleRX-8; 02-07-2007 at 12:59 PM.
#9
No problem in Quebec:O) start fine every morning, even at -30c.
I never in my live at to use a block heater...For sure if you leave your car without starting it for a couple of day you can have problem and oil will not be usefull...batery with big AMP will help...
Maybe you don't run your car enough time between your travel...you need at least to run it 20 minute per day to make sure your batery is full charge.
Also I see alot of people starting their car with radio, heated seat and fans at full power..please before you stop your car..close down everything for a minute before turning the key off....when you star back all power will go to the motor...;O)
And don't put your handbrake on winter...just put it in the lowest gears and that is the reverse...
I never in my live at to use a block heater...For sure if you leave your car without starting it for a couple of day you can have problem and oil will not be usefull...batery with big AMP will help...
Maybe you don't run your car enough time between your travel...you need at least to run it 20 minute per day to make sure your batery is full charge.
Also I see alot of people starting their car with radio, heated seat and fans at full power..please before you stop your car..close down everything for a minute before turning the key off....when you star back all power will go to the motor...;O)
And don't put your handbrake on winter...just put it in the lowest gears and that is the reverse...
#11
Cold weather tends to beat up the interiors and the electrics something fierce.
Lowest gear ratio is first; reverse in somewhere between first and second. However, if you are on a slope somewhat, it'll be better to leave it in first if the car is tipped nose up, and reverse if nose down.
Lowest gear ratio is first; reverse in somewhere between first and second. However, if you are on a slope somewhat, it'll be better to leave it in first if the car is tipped nose up, and reverse if nose down.
#12
Originally Posted by YT1300
Cold weather tends to beat up the interiors and the electrics something fierce.
Lowest gear ratio is first; reverse in somewhere between first and second. However, if you are on a slope somewhat, it'll be better to leave it in first if the car is tipped nose up, and reverse if nose down.
Lowest gear ratio is first; reverse in somewhere between first and second. However, if you are on a slope somewhat, it'll be better to leave it in first if the car is tipped nose up, and reverse if nose down.
and you need to claim it to the dealers and not your insurrance..
If you put it in first gears and your car hit another car in front, your car dealer will not pay damage if the spec book mention to put it in reverse...:O(
#13
So I got my car back yesterday from the dealer. They swapped my plugs, gave me a new flash, which they told me they gave me last time, and sent me on my way... Drove home. Today I go to buy some groceries. Nothing. Dead again. I am so frustrated with this piece of crap. Honestly, this car has been way more of a hastle than I ever could have imagined.
#20
9000 km is nothing. Live with it or buy another car like I did. Block heater may help, but I doubt it!, a nice toasty garage over freezing will help. But then the mazda rust set in, no win win.
Last edited by RXeckless; 11-18-2014 at 06:03 PM.
#23
Got rid of the 8, traded her in for a 2013 BMW 135i M Sport. Just did want to deal with another winter with of 200-250 Km's to a tank. So far I'm getting up to 500-600 Km's on a smaller tank, but it's also a pig in the snow!
PS* theres no block heater for rx8's apparently, oil pan heater is another option.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...heater-162097/
PS* theres no block heater for rx8's apparently, oil pan heater is another option.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...heater-162097/
#24
I used the oil pan heater when I had mine out in the winter; Worked well.
Synthetic trans and diff fluid are a must in winter to improve cold shifting and to reduce gear drag while the fluid warms up.
Might want to consider an engine oil temp gauge and then some oil cooler covers when you see the temps you're running.
Synthetic trans and diff fluid are a must in winter to improve cold shifting and to reduce gear drag while the fluid warms up.
Might want to consider an engine oil temp gauge and then some oil cooler covers when you see the temps you're running.