Please help - engine light is on - intake valve:
#1
Please help - engine light is on - intake valve:
Hello, I'm really hoping you guys can help me.
I had my car outside (but plugged in) overnight in Winnipeg (-30) and in the am drove with no issue to underground parking (for 3 hours). When I started the car, the engine light came on and upon inspection by a Mazda dealer, he said the intake valve was open due to the cold weather and moving between outdoor and indoor parking (the value got unstuck or something). He cleared the code and I then drove for 5 minutes when the engine light re-appeared.
I don't have extended warranty and he said it would be a costly repair to rip apart the manifold to inspect. In the meantime, he said to keep the car in heated underground parking until I move to Vancouver in 2 weeks. What do you guys think? He said that I will burn more fuel while the light is on.
Normally it never spends the night outside in Winnipeg so this must be the cause. A very big thank you. David
I had my car outside (but plugged in) overnight in Winnipeg (-30) and in the am drove with no issue to underground parking (for 3 hours). When I started the car, the engine light came on and upon inspection by a Mazda dealer, he said the intake valve was open due to the cold weather and moving between outdoor and indoor parking (the value got unstuck or something). He cleared the code and I then drove for 5 minutes when the engine light re-appeared.
I don't have extended warranty and he said it would be a costly repair to rip apart the manifold to inspect. In the meantime, he said to keep the car in heated underground parking until I move to Vancouver in 2 weeks. What do you guys think? He said that I will burn more fuel while the light is on.
Normally it never spends the night outside in Winnipeg so this must be the cause. A very big thank you. David
#2
grass hopper
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i suggest you call a dealer near where you are going in vanc. and see if its cheaper there. if so wait and do it there, if not get it done where you are now. you havent explained the issue very well so i dont think it will be easy for the really experienced guys to help you. there isnt just one valve in the intake on these engines AFAIK. also, there are many other valves assosiated with the intake and not directly located in the intake. emissions controlls that all gum up over time...also, try searching on the forums here. you might get some info relating to what your issue is that way.
Greg
Greg
#4
Zoom Zoom....
I've seen many problems emerge with taking cars from -30 to heated parking, and then back outside.
If it is the SSV, then since it is vacuum actuated, no harm should come to it. The APV, has an electric motor and gears.
Park the car in the heated overnight, and then start and idle the engine inside until it's warm. Take the car out and drive it reasonably-hard. Get the revs up to above 7,000 under load several times. This should exercise both valves. Put the car back inside.
Hopefully, it was just frozen moisture, and no harm done.
You can clear the codes yourself...
BTW, it's below freezing in Vancouver too.... And, I laughed when I read that Vancouver dealers might be cheaper....
If it is the SSV, then since it is vacuum actuated, no harm should come to it. The APV, has an electric motor and gears.
Park the car in the heated overnight, and then start and idle the engine inside until it's warm. Take the car out and drive it reasonably-hard. Get the revs up to above 7,000 under load several times. This should exercise both valves. Put the car back inside.
Hopefully, it was just frozen moisture, and no harm done.
You can clear the codes yourself...
That won't clear the KAM and can do some other funky things if it isn't complete. It will also erase your radio presets and clock settings.
There are two reset procedures, one for the NVRAM and the other for the KAM. Neither will erase your radio presets and such like the method SpooledUp7 posted:
1) With the key in the off position, press and hold the odometer reset button and turn the key to on;
Continue to hold the odo button until the odometer reads "TEST" and then release.
2) Turn the key to off and repeat step one.
This will reset the entire PCM except the KAM which contains the sensor profiles amongst other things. You can reset it with the familiar procedure:
1) Turn the key to on
2) Depress the brake pedal rapidly 20 times in a row until the oil pressure gauge sweeps to halfway and back again.
There are two reset procedures, one for the NVRAM and the other for the KAM. Neither will erase your radio presets and such like the method SpooledUp7 posted:
1) With the key in the off position, press and hold the odometer reset button and turn the key to on;
Continue to hold the odo button until the odometer reads "TEST" and then release.
2) Turn the key to off and repeat step one.
This will reset the entire PCM except the KAM which contains the sensor profiles amongst other things. You can reset it with the familiar procedure:
1) Turn the key to on
2) Depress the brake pedal rapidly 20 times in a row until the oil pressure gauge sweeps to halfway and back again.
BTW, it's below freezing in Vancouver too.... And, I laughed when I read that Vancouver dealers might be cheaper....
#6
Silver 06 - it looks like it was the SSV issue:
I just spoke with the service technician at Mazda and that's what came up on his computer. Will follow your instructions. The technician said to leave it indoors. Thanks again. David
#7
Zoom Zoom....
You're welcome.
The SSV is one of those (few) things that can be fixed without taking the entire car apart - just the intake.
It could either be the solenoid gone bad, or the vacuum actuator, or the valve itself could be stuck.
PM'd.
The SSV is one of those (few) things that can be fixed without taking the entire car apart - just the intake.
It could either be the solenoid gone bad, or the vacuum actuator, or the valve itself could be stuck.
PM'd.
#9
Yeah - I barely drive the car. I bought the car in Oct 04 (it's a 2005 model), and the Mazda guy said the SSV or APV problem / intake valve is not part of the core warranty that covers the engine.
#11
Registered
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Do what Silver06 and go from there. 22k on the car shouldn't be anything more than that. I would get a little portable heater and fix it pointing at the engine leave it like that for a few days in hopes to dry it out.
What RMPs does the light start to come on?
GL!!
What RMPs does the light start to come on?
GL!!
#12
Thanks guys, very generous - Thumper, the light comes on upon engine start up (very low RPMs 1k or so). I have it plugged in outside tonight where it's the winter version of hell - in Winnipeg. I expect the engine light to be on when I start it tomorrow.
Will follow Silver06's instructions to a "t" and will also leave it overnight in heated underground parking Friday night.
Fingers crossed. David
Will follow Silver06's instructions to a "t" and will also leave it overnight in heated underground parking Friday night.
Fingers crossed. David
#13
mine was actually like that too...engine light came on...bad idling too....but wen it's warm it starts, runs fine doesnt seem to be a problem but light stays on ( pissesme off ), i fixed it after 3 days quite randomly, i pop the hood..check oil put dipstick back in...engine light gone...never came bak... but i changed sparks neways due to bad idling while in below freezing weather, i am also in burnaby/vancouver
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