Questions about protecting the 8
10-19-2004, 02:45 AM
#1
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Questions about protecting the 8
Hey guys
There have recently been a couple of threads on protecting the 8. I want to know which are ABSOLUTELY necessary and which can be considered "optional".
1) KROWN for rust protection - costs about $110 and has to be applied every year. Holes may or may not need to be drilled (some guys have claimed no holes needed). Is this worth it for a Calgarian where they don't use salt on roads?
2) 3M Clear Bra - clear coating of plastic that's a bit expensive. This idea I like because it protects from rock chips. What areas SHOULD be covered (ie hood, fender, bumper, etc)? Roughly what kind of price should I be aiming at (I know it depends on what I get protected)? Dumb question but I assume that areas protected by the clear bra don't require waxing, right? Which brings me to the next question ....
3) Waxing/Zaino/Meguire - don't know if I can do this now seeing as that it's snowing, cold and all wintery in Calgary. I don't think this is pressing but tell me if I'm wrong!
Anything else I missed? Feeling kinda neurotic about my new toy. I appreciate the input!
There have recently been a couple of threads on protecting the 8. I want to know which are ABSOLUTELY necessary and which can be considered "optional".
1) KROWN for rust protection - costs about $110 and has to be applied every year. Holes may or may not need to be drilled (some guys have claimed no holes needed). Is this worth it for a Calgarian where they don't use salt on roads?
2) 3M Clear Bra - clear coating of plastic that's a bit expensive. This idea I like because it protects from rock chips. What areas SHOULD be covered (ie hood, fender, bumper, etc)? Roughly what kind of price should I be aiming at (I know it depends on what I get protected)? Dumb question but I assume that areas protected by the clear bra don't require waxing, right? Which brings me to the next question ....
3) Waxing/Zaino/Meguire - don't know if I can do this now seeing as that it's snowing, cold and all wintery in Calgary. I don't think this is pressing but tell me if I'm wrong!
Anything else I missed? Feeling kinda neurotic about my new toy. I appreciate the input!
10-19-2004, 06:22 AM
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I'm leasing my 8 for 3 years. At the end of that it will probably go (much to the disgust of my other half who tends to keep hers a long time). So:
1. No rustproofing - if it rusts, then either Mazda didn't do its job during manufacture or I didn't do mine with attending to stone chips, frequent cleaning/inspection of paintwork, seams, under the doors etc.
2. No clear bra - it's a touch too expensive for me considering the situation. If you plan on keeping the car, it's probably worth it - more so if you do a lot of highway or gravel type travelling.
3. Any good car polish is better than nothing to protect the paintwork from deterioration (UV exposure, pollutants etc.). Besides, you want your 8 to look good. A good wax finish also makes it easier to clean. My 8 had obviously sat in a Mazda yard for a while before it got to me. Where there was none of the white plastic, the paint was really rough. I have worked on that (using the Meguiars 3 Step stuff - can't remember the name right now) and it has come back really nicely. There's still more work to do and I'm looking forward to seeing cars with Zaino and NXT finishes to decide whether to go there in the spring.
1. No rustproofing - if it rusts, then either Mazda didn't do its job during manufacture or I didn't do mine with attending to stone chips, frequent cleaning/inspection of paintwork, seams, under the doors etc.
2. No clear bra - it's a touch too expensive for me considering the situation. If you plan on keeping the car, it's probably worth it - more so if you do a lot of highway or gravel type travelling.
3. Any good car polish is better than nothing to protect the paintwork from deterioration (UV exposure, pollutants etc.). Besides, you want your 8 to look good. A good wax finish also makes it easier to clean. My 8 had obviously sat in a Mazda yard for a while before it got to me. Where there was none of the white plastic, the paint was really rough. I have worked on that (using the Meguiars 3 Step stuff - can't remember the name right now) and it has come back really nicely. There's still more work to do and I'm looking forward to seeing cars with Zaino and NXT finishes to decide whether to go there in the spring.
10-19-2004, 09:32 AM
#3
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Originally Posted by ChrisP
I'm leasing my 8 for 3 years. At the end of that it will probably go (much to the disgust of my other half who tends to keep hers a long time). So:
1. No rustproofing - if it rusts, then either Mazda didn't do its job during manufacture or I didn't do mine with attending to stone chips, frequent cleaning/inspection of paintwork, seams, under the doors etc.
2. No clear bra - it's a touch too expensive for me considering the situation. If you plan on keeping the car, it's probably worth it - more so if you do a lot of highway or gravel type travelling.
3. Any good car polish is better than nothing to protect the paintwork from deterioration (UV exposure, pollutants etc.). Besides, you want your 8 to look good. A good wax finish also makes it easier to clean. My 8 had obviously sat in a Mazda yard for a while before it got to me. Where there was none of the white plastic, the paint was really rough. I have worked on that (using the Meguiars 3 Step stuff - can't remember the name right now) and it has come back really nicely. There's still more work to do and I'm looking forward to seeing cars with Zaino and NXT finishes to decide whether to go there in the spring.
1. No rustproofing - if it rusts, then either Mazda didn't do its job during manufacture or I didn't do mine with attending to stone chips, frequent cleaning/inspection of paintwork, seams, under the doors etc.
2. No clear bra - it's a touch too expensive for me considering the situation. If you plan on keeping the car, it's probably worth it - more so if you do a lot of highway or gravel type travelling.
3. Any good car polish is better than nothing to protect the paintwork from deterioration (UV exposure, pollutants etc.). Besides, you want your 8 to look good. A good wax finish also makes it easier to clean. My 8 had obviously sat in a Mazda yard for a while before it got to me. Where there was none of the white plastic, the paint was really rough. I have worked on that (using the Meguiars 3 Step stuff - can't remember the name right now) and it has come back really nicely. There's still more work to do and I'm looking forward to seeing cars with Zaino and NXT finishes to decide whether to go there in the spring.
1...ya, what he said!
10-19-2004, 10:22 AM
#4
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1. No rustproofing for me. I would only consider the Krown type (not Ziebart etc.), but in Calgary there's much less need for this than in Ontario.
2. 3M clearbra - absolutely! I had it done 1 week after picking up the car. If you're planning to drive in winter, I'd consider it essential. Even for 3 season driving, it will prevent the stone chips in the paint that will eventually make your car look old. I had the bumper, front of hood and fenders, and mirrors done. Also had a heavier film put on the head lights and fog lights to prevent wear on the lights. I posted last year on the costs (search for my ID and xpel or clear bra in the Canada forum), but the best place in town is Shadow Tint, they're a xpel dealer.
3. Wax (or equivalent polymer protectant) if you can. NuFinish is the most durable and gives good protection, and pretty good shine as well. Wash it well, then take it to a heated garage to do the job if you have to!
Regards,
Gordon
2. 3M clearbra - absolutely! I had it done 1 week after picking up the car. If you're planning to drive in winter, I'd consider it essential. Even for 3 season driving, it will prevent the stone chips in the paint that will eventually make your car look old. I had the bumper, front of hood and fenders, and mirrors done. Also had a heavier film put on the head lights and fog lights to prevent wear on the lights. I posted last year on the costs (search for my ID and xpel or clear bra in the Canada forum), but the best place in town is Shadow Tint, they're a xpel dealer.
3. Wax (or equivalent polymer protectant) if you can. NuFinish is the most durable and gives good protection, and pretty good shine as well. Wash it well, then take it to a heated garage to do the job if you have to!
Regards,
Gordon
10-21-2004, 12:18 AM
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1. Krown for sure. I did mine. Winnipeg doesn't use a lot of salt, but for 109 bucks, pretty cheap insurance. Rust happens, salt or not. If there is dew on the grass when you wake up, you are rusting.
2. Clear bra? Not sure on this one. But if Gord believes in it than so will I. He is an ex- pegger and knows full well how hard weather can be on cars. He is probally one of a few Calgarians that know what a "social" is too!
3. waxing, for the price, and a self gratifying experience that borders a sexual one......well ok its not that great....... why would you not?
I am not a lease for 3 years and hand in the keys kinda guy. My cars are personal to me and I tend to keep them a long time, especially my 8. It is my first real nice car.
My 95 Protege would be lookin a lot better today if I had Krowned, and waxed it from day one.
2. Clear bra? Not sure on this one. But if Gord believes in it than so will I. He is an ex- pegger and knows full well how hard weather can be on cars. He is probally one of a few Calgarians that know what a "social" is too!
3. waxing, for the price, and a self gratifying experience that borders a sexual one......well ok its not that great....... why would you not?
I am not a lease for 3 years and hand in the keys kinda guy. My cars are personal to me and I tend to keep them a long time, especially my 8. It is my first real nice car.
My 95 Protege would be lookin a lot better today if I had Krowned, and waxed it from day one.
10-21-2004, 07:37 AM
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I blame the 3 years and change it philosophy on my dad. I don't think he ever had a car for longer than 18 months. I have at least had one for 7 years - once. But Bean438 is right. If you plan to keep the vehicle and want it to look and be good 8-10 years down the road, rustproof it, clear-bra it, polish it, clean it regularly, maintain it, park it in a garage, enjoy it - but don't thrash it. Did I leave out anything?
10-21-2004, 12:57 PM
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My dad is the same way. Lease for 3, maybe 4 if the incentive is there, and get rid of it, and let it become someone else's problem.
He accepts a permanent monthly payment, but always has a new car under warranty, with the latest features, and safety. No surprises, maybe brakes and possibly a set of tires.
Maybe he is right. My 95 protege has cost me 1200 bucks over the last month. Exhaust, rotors/pads, wheel bearing.
Do I want to pump alot of money into a 9 year old car that is starting to rust, or do I want to lease a Hyundai accent for 149 a month?
Same average monthly cost, but I drive a newer car.
He accepts a permanent monthly payment, but always has a new car under warranty, with the latest features, and safety. No surprises, maybe brakes and possibly a set of tires.
Maybe he is right. My 95 protege has cost me 1200 bucks over the last month. Exhaust, rotors/pads, wheel bearing.
Do I want to pump alot of money into a 9 year old car that is starting to rust, or do I want to lease a Hyundai accent for 149 a month?
Same average monthly cost, but I drive a newer car.
10-21-2004, 01:52 PM
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1. Rust proofing is not really necessary if it is properly maintained (ie. fix rock chips, regularly wash the car, clean out areas where dirt and moisture could build up). I believe that most cars these days are built with a lot more plastic and aluminum thus cars rusting out is not as much a problem.
2. I got the clear bra for my car, but that is becasue I plan to keep the car for 5 years and then sell it. Clear bra was mainly purcahsed to keep up the resale value, so it all depends on your situation. In terms of quality it is hardly noticeable, but there are minor inflections in the film (ie. bubbles or dirt particles). Not to sure if this was because it was done by a poor installer or if the product is just not user friendly. Census on the street seems to favor the later.
3. They put a pretty good coat of paint on the car, but if you do want to use a wax I would highly reccomend Mother's. Great product, but again this can sometimes come down to personal preference.
2. I got the clear bra for my car, but that is becasue I plan to keep the car for 5 years and then sell it. Clear bra was mainly purcahsed to keep up the resale value, so it all depends on your situation. In terms of quality it is hardly noticeable, but there are minor inflections in the film (ie. bubbles or dirt particles). Not to sure if this was because it was done by a poor installer or if the product is just not user friendly. Census on the street seems to favor the later.
3. They put a pretty good coat of paint on the car, but if you do want to use a wax I would highly reccomend Mother's. Great product, but again this can sometimes come down to personal preference.
10-21-2004, 03:22 PM
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Cars rust fron the inside out. Fixing chips, yes it will help but you will still rust from the inside.
I may buy one of those new smart cars from Benz. They have plastic body panels, and I will still have it Krowned. There is metal under the car and behind the panels. Not to mention locking mechanisms, and electrical wiring.
People have to stop thinking of rust in terms of strictly cosmetic.
Oil spray type rustproofing will help all of these areas. It has been proven to work better than the dealer applied once only rust proofing.
I may buy one of those new smart cars from Benz. They have plastic body panels, and I will still have it Krowned. There is metal under the car and behind the panels. Not to mention locking mechanisms, and electrical wiring.
People have to stop thinking of rust in terms of strictly cosmetic.
Oil spray type rustproofing will help all of these areas. It has been proven to work better than the dealer applied once only rust proofing.
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