Silicone based fluid is the DOT 5 stuff you should NOT use.

Like Mr. Bangle said, DOT 3 or 4.

 

Clutch bleeder? is on the slave see pic and NO silicone

 

Not all DOT 5 fluids have a silicone base, the one I use - Motul 5.1 is non-silicone:

http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/brak...S_%28GB%29.pdf

The only reason I use DOT 5 is because my car usually sees some decent track usage even with that not everyone uses DOT 5 for the track. At a place like Mosport you can use a fluid with a lower boiling point. There is no real need in of using RBF600, 660, DOT5 fluid or stainless steel lines if the car does not see allot of track time. In a normal street car, being driven around the streets of Toronto you will not know what kind of fluid or lines you have.

I have the ss lines and I can't say they improved pedal, just did this as a precaution for track use.

Allot of people at the track do not trust speed bleeders so I don't use them and if you are not tracking and changing fluid every couple of years there is no need for them.

My suggestion is instead of putting money into things like RBF600 and stainless steel lines: go out for a track day with good instruction like the Trillium BMW School or Hanson. There are other schools like the Saab school at Shannonville. You don't need any special mods or r compound tires and you will enjoy yourself.


Cheers

 

I already ordered the ss lines though. Oh well. Do I have to do that clutch assembly line? Is it recommended?

 

So i can used the Motul 5.1 for road use then, and a once in a blue moon track day? I see it claims it is also long lasting and excellent for ABS systems. I think im conviced to get the 5.1, just seeking your final approval lol

 

It is non-silicone based, there should be no problems using it. I have been "on it" for the last 4-5 years. Remember to brake in your pads / rotors - that is probably more important than the rest, will makes sure you have good stopping power and a longer pad / rotor life.

Happy Rotoring.

 

well, a shop is installing them, so hopfully they know how to bed them in properly

 

Bedding in is something you do. I do this with my track pads and street pads.

From TireRack website:

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder... (http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85)

Each manufacturer has their recommendation so check with the EBC instructions that came with your pads / rotors. There is usually a small piece of paper that tells you their recommended procedure. Or they should be available online.

The basic idea is: get the pads / rotors warmed up, through some usage. Then - perform a series of near stops. First moderate speeds then higher speeds. Enjoy the lovely scent of burning metal, let them rest for at least 30 minutes and voila - you have a set of perfectly bedded in pads/rotors that will provide many km of joyful usage. Whole process takes 15 minutes.