Summer tires suggestion?
03-21-2014, 12:37 PM
#51
Spinning Dorito Junkie
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Honestly, most people I know who run the R888 as track tires don't like them and prefer the old RA1.
If you want a track tire that is street legal, like the R888, look into the Nitto NT01. Nitto is made by Toyo, and the NT01 uses the same compound as the RA1, but with a different tread pattern. Popular as a DOT endurance racing tire. I have a set for my RX7 but haven't had a chance to run them yet.
If you want a track tire that is street legal, like the R888, look into the Nitto NT01. Nitto is made by Toyo, and the NT01 uses the same compound as the RA1, but with a different tread pattern. Popular as a DOT endurance racing tire. I have a set for my RX7 but haven't had a chance to run them yet.
03-21-2014, 12:41 PM
#52
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To add to Footman's comments, I would never run Dunlop tires. I've had 3 bad experiences with those tires, on 2 different vehicles, and those vehicles came with those tires stock!
I immediately changed them out when I knew they were trying to kill me!!
I run only Bridgestone's. I took a look at Michelin's for a bit... but something about running on a French tire on a Japanese car kinda makes me cringe a bit.
The S-04's are definitely a daily driver type of tire. Just 1 notch below the RE11A's. Great tire! I run it on the Miata. I did run the first gen RE11's on the Miata when they first came out. They were an awesome tire. But they're life expectency was not up to daily driving duty. So I went 1 below to the S-04's. Grip is only slightly decreased (and we're only talking slightly here) and they get better mileage.
The RE11A's are better suited to your "play-toy" car. The FD rarely sees 3-4K a season.
P.S. The RE11's I did run on the Miata gave up after 30-40k on the clock. Not too bad!
I immediately changed them out when I knew they were trying to kill me!!
I run only Bridgestone's. I took a look at Michelin's for a bit... but something about running on a French tire on a Japanese car kinda makes me cringe a bit.
The S-04's are definitely a daily driver type of tire. Just 1 notch below the RE11A's. Great tire! I run it on the Miata. I did run the first gen RE11's on the Miata when they first came out. They were an awesome tire. But they're life expectency was not up to daily driving duty. So I went 1 below to the S-04's. Grip is only slightly decreased (and we're only talking slightly here) and they get better mileage.
The RE11A's are better suited to your "play-toy" car. The FD rarely sees 3-4K a season.
P.S. The RE11's I did run on the Miata gave up after 30-40k on the clock. Not too bad!
The Bridgestone's I've had have been a mix bag ranging from a set of Blizzaks on an old truck I really liked, all the way down to the OEM tires on the RX8, the less of which is said about them the better.
I LOVE my Pilot Super Sports for how I use the car now.
03-22-2014, 09:16 AM
#53
Only suggestion, do not go asymetric if it is a street only tire. I just tossed my Sumitomos because of camber wear (HRTZIII I think). It was not crazy camber (-1.5 degree) but the sidewall was so stiff the tire only ran on the edge. They could not be turned around. I just bought a set of the G-Force Sport C2 for the street. When they wear, I can flip them in a year.
03-22-2014, 10:34 PM
#55
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I'm switching to the AD08R this year after running BFG Rivals last year.
03-23-2014, 08:18 AM
#56
@MC8..
Normally, you are right.. but...
Rear camber will not go more positive than -1.5. That is pretty much the center of the spec.
A tire with a softer sidewall, or lower load range, will flex a bit and distributed the load. These do not have a soft sidewall and are in the 1500 pound load range. Also, the heavy cornering rubber is on the outside, grooves are more on the inside. That puts the load on the part of the tire with the least rubber. I upped the pressure to get more of the center of the tire involved, but it did not do much. The outside edge is barely scuffed. It barely touches the road.
Alignment was checked.
In the past, I have only had to do this to track tires (the swap) when I tore up the outside edges. Maintaining the option for the street is a plus.
The data is provided as-is, with no warranty.
Normally, you are right.. but...
Rear camber will not go more positive than -1.5. That is pretty much the center of the spec.
A tire with a softer sidewall, or lower load range, will flex a bit and distributed the load. These do not have a soft sidewall and are in the 1500 pound load range. Also, the heavy cornering rubber is on the outside, grooves are more on the inside. That puts the load on the part of the tire with the least rubber. I upped the pressure to get more of the center of the tire involved, but it did not do much. The outside edge is barely scuffed. It barely touches the road.
Alignment was checked.
In the past, I have only had to do this to track tires (the swap) when I tore up the outside edges. Maintaining the option for the street is a plus.
The data is provided as-is, with no warranty.
03-24-2014, 11:11 AM
#59
I am The One!
When will people learn when a tire is rated "all-seasons" it's basically telling you it's No-Seasons!
Get the dedicated summer tire. You'll be much happier.
Get the dedicated summer tire. You'll be much happier.
03-25-2014, 11:29 PM
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03-28-2014, 08:54 PM
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I'm running Yoko S Drive with about 27,000km and I'm down to 4/32 tread when I took them off last Fall. Likely will replace soon with same - really like the tires.
I need to replace soon since I noticed I'm down past the wear bars on both inside rear wheel edges despite an alignment last summer. Re-aligned after mounting the snows last Nov. No cupping or uneven wear and didn't 't hit pot holes or curbs, so I'm wondering if the Mosport lapping either "re-adjusted" the alignment or I just scrubbed-off more rubber (15 min track lapping shouldn't be significant).
I need to replace soon since I noticed I'm down past the wear bars on both inside rear wheel edges despite an alignment last summer. Re-aligned after mounting the snows last Nov. No cupping or uneven wear and didn't 't hit pot holes or curbs, so I'm wondering if the Mosport lapping either "re-adjusted" the alignment or I just scrubbed-off more rubber (15 min track lapping shouldn't be significant).
Last edited by Rocketman1956; 03-28-2014 at 09:00 PM.
03-29-2014, 09:51 AM
#65
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03-29-2014, 05:36 PM
#66
Hey Gents,
I thought I would throw in an update to this thread in case anyone was thinking about getting summers for 2014. Similar to DaddG, I sold my house and I am now in a condo so ordering logistics have changed from the past.
ContinentalExtremeContact DW @174 per tire = $696.00
245/45ZR18XL 100Y B
Include TPMS Rebuild Kit @$5 per tire = $20
$25 Online Order Savings -$25.00
UPS Standard Shipping (ship 4-10 business days) FREE
Prepaid Canadian Tarriff Fees $160.00
Total for Delivery is $851.00
Add in $18.95 per Tire for installation at Limitless Tires (still looking for a better deal....$15 per tire) but they are very close to my condo.
Looking at $931.00. No mail in rebate listed on discounttiresdirect
If anyone has a better deal, let me know
Henry
I thought I would throw in an update to this thread in case anyone was thinking about getting summers for 2014. Similar to DaddG, I sold my house and I am now in a condo so ordering logistics have changed from the past.
ContinentalExtremeContact DW @174 per tire = $696.00
245/45ZR18XL 100Y B
Include TPMS Rebuild Kit @$5 per tire = $20
$25 Online Order Savings -$25.00
UPS Standard Shipping (ship 4-10 business days) FREE
Prepaid Canadian Tarriff Fees $160.00
Total for Delivery is $851.00
Add in $18.95 per Tire for installation at Limitless Tires (still looking for a better deal....$15 per tire) but they are very close to my condo.
Looking at $931.00. No mail in rebate listed on discounttiresdirect
If anyone has a better deal, let me know
Henry
Here are a list of MANUFACTURERS REBATES from most of the big name brands:
Manufacturers Rebates
03-30-2014, 11:54 PM
#67
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04-08-2014, 07:37 AM
#68
nowakm99
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You might be fine on no-seasons, but the performance between that and a dedicated extreme performance summer tire is huge.
If you want to extract all the performance that our great chassis has to offer, a good performance summer tire is the only way to go. I got the Michelin PSS last year and they are phenomenal. Much smoother ride than the stock Potenza and the grip is tenacious!
If you want to extract all the performance that our great chassis has to offer, a good performance summer tire is the only way to go. I got the Michelin PSS last year and they are phenomenal. Much smoother ride than the stock Potenza and the grip is tenacious!
04-08-2014, 01:12 PM
#69
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Some other suggestions, but hard to get tires, for your specific driving purpose.
- Dunlop Z2
- BF Goodrich Rivals
- Bridgestone RE-11A (my new setup)
- Dunlop Z2
- BF Goodrich Rivals
- Bridgestone RE-11A (my new setup)
Really?! I've been doing some research on them and they seem good.
I'll be using it off and on the track. I'm doing some major upgrades to the fd so i need some sticky tires to hold me on the track, and take me home after lol
Other tires I have in mind are:
-Yokohama AD08
-Hankook Rs3
-Toyo RA1
I'll be using it off and on the track. I'm doing some major upgrades to the fd so i need some sticky tires to hold me on the track, and take me home after lol
Other tires I have in mind are:
-Yokohama AD08
-Hankook Rs3
-Toyo RA1
04-09-2014, 12:33 PM
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^ From your avatar, you appear to at least sometimes frequent tracks? Have you tried the RE-11As on the track? Any other general impressions? Based on reviews, it sounds like the RE-11As are the most streetable of the extreme performance tires (eg. rain, standing water).
04-09-2014, 07:38 PM
#71
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I have not tried the re-11a, but heard great things about them...and that why I'm trying them out. I was on BFGoodrich r1 slicks for track was very happy with those but it takes longer to warm up and is useless when the track is a little wet. At least teh re-11a could see a bit of rain. lolz
I really wanted to test out dunlop z2....but very hard to get in Toronto, plus I got a deal with re-11a...to good to give up a good thing.
Will let you guys know once I do some test runs at SMP or DDT.
I really wanted to test out dunlop z2....but very hard to get in Toronto, plus I got a deal with re-11a...to good to give up a good thing.
Will let you guys know once I do some test runs at SMP or DDT.
04-10-2014, 08:35 AM
#72
I am The One!
The RE11's are a very good overall tire. Even if you do end up taking it to the track.
I did a couple of runs at Mosport on the RE11's with the Miata. This tire was daily driven so it's seen some good rain days too.
It's a fantastic tire!
I can't wait to pick up a set for my FD.
I did a couple of runs at Mosport on the RE11's with the Miata. This tire was daily driven so it's seen some good rain days too.
It's a fantastic tire!
I can't wait to pick up a set for my FD.
04-15-2014, 10:50 AM
#73
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This car just seems to be completely undertired in the back, and the OEM alignment is so gentle on the tires it's almost comical for a sports car. I'd imagine you can probably get 100,000km out of a set of A/S tires, so you'll almost be replacing tires and engine at the same time, LOL.
04-21-2014, 05:49 PM
#74
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FWIW, I am thoroughly enjoying my Bridgestone S04 tires. They replaced my old Bridgestone RE050A and I got them for just under $700 including shipping from TireRack.
04-24-2014, 01:06 PM
#75
Order the better tires from TireRack and get them shipped somewhere nearby in the states and drive over...pick them up and install down there...drive back over and voila! new tires at 60% the cost here in Canada.
If you're in Ontario...CBI USA charges $5 a package and they are 1 min from Rainbow Bridge (Niagara falls, NY)...then enjoy that extra cash and splooge on some new outfits/shoes.
Cheers.
If you're in Ontario...CBI USA charges $5 a package and they are 1 min from Rainbow Bridge (Niagara falls, NY)...then enjoy that extra cash and splooge on some new outfits/shoes.
Cheers.