New RX8 owner. Car has some problems.
08-18-2020, 05:37 AM
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New RX8 owner. Car has some problems.
Hi. So I bought this RX8 (2005, 141KW/192HP) 2 months ago from Germany. Its engine has been rebuild 1 year ago.The car has been sitting, not even turned on, for at least 5 months before I bought it.That one guy who sold it to my mother (she had my money, she was in Germany.), told her that one sparkplug is "almost destroyed" and we should replace them. He also told her that the car has a issue "somewhere in the vacuum".
He wasn't a car enthusiast. He just bought it because he liked how the car looks. With that out of the way, these are the issues I've had so far:Before replacing the spark plugs, it took several tries to start the engine. Engine will eventually start, but run rough. Now, that the sparkplugs are changed, it starts from the first try, but it starts pretty hard. I gotta crank it 10 to 15 seconds to start.After it starts, it idles rough. After my mechanic installed the new spark plugs (NGK), we took a short drive. And it was a very harsh ride. And it seemed like the car lost some power, but not too much. Sometimes it idles perfectly and doesn't have any problem with the idle even if it starts so hard. The only codes I've got so far are:P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire detected)P2096 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean) after cleaning the contacts P2097 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich)P0300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected) [after cleaning the contacts it disappeared]Flashing Check engine light Flashing DSC off light that won't go away. And also, after it warms up, it is impossible to start it up.
The fuel consumption was 30.6l/100km (9 MPG) Let me know if you had this type of issues and how did you get rid of them.Thanks a lot
He wasn't a car enthusiast. He just bought it because he liked how the car looks. With that out of the way, these are the issues I've had so far:Before replacing the spark plugs, it took several tries to start the engine. Engine will eventually start, but run rough. Now, that the sparkplugs are changed, it starts from the first try, but it starts pretty hard. I gotta crank it 10 to 15 seconds to start.After it starts, it idles rough. After my mechanic installed the new spark plugs (NGK), we took a short drive. And it was a very harsh ride. And it seemed like the car lost some power, but not too much. Sometimes it idles perfectly and doesn't have any problem with the idle even if it starts so hard. The only codes I've got so far are:P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire detected)P2096 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean) after cleaning the contacts P2097 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich)P0300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected) [after cleaning the contacts it disappeared]Flashing Check engine light Flashing DSC off light that won't go away. And also, after it warms up, it is impossible to start it up.
The fuel consumption was 30.6l/100km (9 MPG) Let me know if you had this type of issues and how did you get rid of them.Thanks a lot
08-18-2020, 07:15 AM
#2
Well, welcome aboard.
Difficulty starting when warm: possible poor compression. Could be the rebuild was botched or never broken in. Have you had a compression test?
Flashing DSC that won't go away: check the wheel speed sensor wires at each wheel. One may be damaged. If not that, get a code reader that can read ABS codes as well.
Poor fuel consumption: clogged catalytic converter, old/worn out ignition coils. This is the number one killer of engines. The cat you can remove and inspect from the inside, the coils should be replaced with new ones or with a GM D585- based coil set.
Another possibility is you have a vacuum leak. With your code reader see if you can read the airflow, AFR, and short and long term fuel trim values while the car is warmed up and idling. Report back.
Have a read at RX8help.com in the new and potential buyers section for complete info.
Difficulty starting when warm: possible poor compression. Could be the rebuild was botched or never broken in. Have you had a compression test?
Flashing DSC that won't go away: check the wheel speed sensor wires at each wheel. One may be damaged. If not that, get a code reader that can read ABS codes as well.
Poor fuel consumption: clogged catalytic converter, old/worn out ignition coils. This is the number one killer of engines. The cat you can remove and inspect from the inside, the coils should be replaced with new ones or with a GM D585- based coil set.
Another possibility is you have a vacuum leak. With your code reader see if you can read the airflow, AFR, and short and long term fuel trim values while the car is warmed up and idling. Report back.
Have a read at RX8help.com in the new and potential buyers section for complete info.
08-18-2020, 12:09 PM
#3
Smoking turbo yay
To me, it sounds like you need new ignition coils and also need to check the catalytic converter. I would start there.
09-18-2020, 04:04 AM
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Well, welcome aboard.
Difficulty starting when warm: possible poor compression. Could be the rebuild was botched or never broken in. Have you had a compression test?
Flashing DSC that won't go away: check the wheel speed sensor wires at each wheel. One may be damaged. If not that, get a code reader that can read ABS codes as well.
Poor fuel consumption: clogged catalytic converter, old/worn out ignition coils. This is the number one killer of engines. The cat you can remove and inspect from the inside, the coils should be replaced with new ones or with a GM D585- based coil set.
Another possibility is you have a vacuum leak. With your code reader see if you can read the airflow, AFR, and short and long term fuel trim values while the car is warmed up and idling. Report back.
Have a read at RX8help.com in the new and potential buyers section for complete info.
Difficulty starting when warm: possible poor compression. Could be the rebuild was botched or never broken in. Have you had a compression test?
Flashing DSC that won't go away: check the wheel speed sensor wires at each wheel. One may be damaged. If not that, get a code reader that can read ABS codes as well.
Poor fuel consumption: clogged catalytic converter, old/worn out ignition coils. This is the number one killer of engines. The cat you can remove and inspect from the inside, the coils should be replaced with new ones or with a GM D585- based coil set.
Another possibility is you have a vacuum leak. With your code reader see if you can read the airflow, AFR, and short and long term fuel trim values while the car is warmed up and idling. Report back.
Have a read at RX8help.com in the new and potential buyers section for complete info.
This is the only thing I could get. I'm going to try and get something more as I'll return home.
09-19-2020, 03:18 AM
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Update:
I removed the air box yesterday. I just realized that my car doesn't have a VFAD actuator, nor a vacuum chamber or a VFAD solenoid valve.
Could this be the issue?
I removed the air box yesterday. I just realized that my car doesn't have a VFAD actuator, nor a vacuum chamber or a VFAD solenoid valve.
Could this be the issue?
11-30-2020, 12:01 PM
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Update
Hi. So I bought this RX8 (2005, 141KW/192HP) 2 months ago from Germany. Its engine has been rebuild 1 year ago.The car has been sitting, not even turned on, for at least 5 months before I bought it.That one guy who sold it to my mother (she had my money, she was in Germany.), told her that one sparkplug is "almost destroyed" and we should replace them. He also told her that the car has a issue "somewhere in the vacuum".
He wasn't a car enthusiast. He just bought it because he liked how the car looks. With that out of the way, these are the issues I've had so far:Before replacing the spark plugs, it took several tries to start the engine. Engine will eventually start, but run rough. Now, that the sparkplugs are changed, it starts from the first try, but it starts pretty hard. I gotta crank it 10 to 15 seconds to start.After it starts, it idles rough. After my mechanic installed the new spark plugs (NGK), we took a short drive. And it was a very harsh ride. And it seemed like the car lost some power, but not too much. Sometimes it idles perfectly and doesn't have any problem with the idle even if it starts so hard. The only codes I've got so far are:P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire detected)P2096 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean) after cleaning the contacts P2097 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich)P0300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected) [after cleaning the contacts it disappeared]Flashing Check engine light Flashing DSC off light that won't go away. And also, after it warms up, it is impossible to start it up.
The fuel consumption was 30.6l/100km (9 MPG) Let me know if you had this type of issues and how did you get rid of them.Thanks a lot
He wasn't a car enthusiast. He just bought it because he liked how the car looks. With that out of the way, these are the issues I've had so far:Before replacing the spark plugs, it took several tries to start the engine. Engine will eventually start, but run rough. Now, that the sparkplugs are changed, it starts from the first try, but it starts pretty hard. I gotta crank it 10 to 15 seconds to start.After it starts, it idles rough. After my mechanic installed the new spark plugs (NGK), we took a short drive. And it was a very harsh ride. And it seemed like the car lost some power, but not too much. Sometimes it idles perfectly and doesn't have any problem with the idle even if it starts so hard. The only codes I've got so far are:P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire detected)P2096 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean) after cleaning the contacts P2097 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich)P0300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected) [after cleaning the contacts it disappeared]Flashing Check engine light Flashing DSC off light that won't go away. And also, after it warms up, it is impossible to start it up.
The fuel consumption was 30.6l/100km (9 MPG) Let me know if you had this type of issues and how did you get rid of them.Thanks a lot
Here are some videos. Hope they are useful for some diagnosis.
11-30-2020, 12:11 PM
#8
Where?
Should have said this sooner but if you're getting 9PMG definitely stop driving the car before the cat and engine are destroyed further.
It's not the lack of VFAD. You need a compression test before you spend any money on things that won't bring back a low compression engine.
Should have said this sooner but if you're getting 9PMG definitely stop driving the car before the cat and engine are destroyed further.
It's not the lack of VFAD. You need a compression test before you spend any money on things that won't bring back a low compression engine.
02-23-2021, 04:28 AM
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Update
I got in touch with the cars second owner. He sold it with a broken engine. The third owner (the one I bought the car from) says he did a rebuild in a unknown garage.
Searching more information about my car, the rebuild was done poorly. I contacted the “unknown garage”. I found out that the Mecanic didn’t know sh*t about the Wankel. He threw the side seals in without getting the clearance done and other sh*ts he just looked at in internet.
It has such a low compression that it surprises me now that it started then.
I got the car in a Mazda Service to have a true understanding of what is happening. They gave me a troubleshooting sheet:
Low Compression
Catalytic convertor glows yellow-red after being in the first 10 minutes of use
Minor oil leaking
Now, my question is: Should I buy a new engine or should I rebuild this one?
If I should rebuild it, can you recommend me a good service in the East Central Europe?
Searching more information about my car, the rebuild was done poorly. I contacted the “unknown garage”. I found out that the Mecanic didn’t know sh*t about the Wankel. He threw the side seals in without getting the clearance done and other sh*ts he just looked at in internet.
It has such a low compression that it surprises me now that it started then.
I got the car in a Mazda Service to have a true understanding of what is happening. They gave me a troubleshooting sheet:
Low Compression
Catalytic convertor glows yellow-red after being in the first 10 minutes of use
Minor oil leaking
Now, my question is: Should I buy a new engine or should I rebuild this one?
If I should rebuild it, can you recommend me a good service in the East Central Europe?
02-23-2021, 06:54 AM
#10
You almost never want to rebuild your engine. You want to buy a new or professionally rebuilt one. Especially given the history here. You will also need to replace your cat and some other things like ignition coils, to avoid killing your new engine.
Mazda is one good source, I'm not sure what the rebuilder situation is like but there appear to be a few rotary shops in Poland. If you're willing to have an engine shipped to you Essex Rotary in the UK is a good bet.
Mazda is one good source, I'm not sure what the rebuilder situation is like but there appear to be a few rotary shops in Poland. If you're willing to have an engine shipped to you Essex Rotary in the UK is a good bet.
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