Front Strut Bar
06-02-2005, 07:54 AM
#2
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MHO, not realli.
If u are really looking at better overall performance when taking corners i.e less body roll and a firmer feel, then you may have to change not only the stabiliser but also the coilovers , lower stabilisers, the whole works basically.
My best guess is prolly the guy selling the stabiliser is 'blowing' the advantages of his product out of proportion and coupled with the fact you are not realli sure if hes telling the truth and whether its worth the $$ & hence, this post rite?
However, if the front stabiliser does come with a brake stopper and this is the reason y u r askin, then i would recommend you to buy it. Originals do not have the brake stopper and basically it serves to prolong the physical integrity of your brake drum (reservior located in ur engine bay).
Cheers
If u are really looking at better overall performance when taking corners i.e less body roll and a firmer feel, then you may have to change not only the stabiliser but also the coilovers , lower stabilisers, the whole works basically.
My best guess is prolly the guy selling the stabiliser is 'blowing' the advantages of his product out of proportion and coupled with the fact you are not realli sure if hes telling the truth and whether its worth the $$ & hence, this post rite?
However, if the front stabiliser does come with a brake stopper and this is the reason y u r askin, then i would recommend you to buy it. Originals do not have the brake stopper and basically it serves to prolong the physical integrity of your brake drum (reservior located in ur engine bay).
Cheers
06-02-2005, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Neon
MHO, not realli.
If u are really looking at better overall performance when taking corners i.e less body roll and a firmer feel, then you may have to change not only the stabiliser but also the coilovers , lower stabilisers, the whole works basically.
My best guess is prolly the guy selling the stabiliser is 'blowing' the advantages of his product out of proportion and coupled with the fact you are not realli sure if hes telling the truth and whether its worth the $$ & hence, this post rite?
However, if the front stabiliser does come with a brake stopper and this is the reason y u r askin, then i would recommend you to buy it. Originals do not have the brake stopper and basically it serves to prolong the physical integrity of your brake drum (reservior located in ur engine bay).
Cheers
If u are really looking at better overall performance when taking corners i.e less body roll and a firmer feel, then you may have to change not only the stabiliser but also the coilovers , lower stabilisers, the whole works basically.
My best guess is prolly the guy selling the stabiliser is 'blowing' the advantages of his product out of proportion and coupled with the fact you are not realli sure if hes telling the truth and whether its worth the $$ & hence, this post rite?
However, if the front stabiliser does come with a brake stopper and this is the reason y u r askin, then i would recommend you to buy it. Originals do not have the brake stopper and basically it serves to prolong the physical integrity of your brake drum (reservior located in ur engine bay).
Cheers
Carbing RULES!!! :D
06-02-2005, 06:43 PM
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Thanks for the advise. I couldn't grasp the concept of how it would improve the stability by alot since there is already one.(maybe lighter and stiffer due to the material).
However, there is the brake stopper factor. Just curious, how much did you get the carbing for? The titanium cusco one is ridiculously priced!
However, there is the brake stopper factor. Just curious, how much did you get the carbing for? The titanium cusco one is ridiculously priced!
06-02-2005, 09:25 PM
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Solid advise by bro Neon.
Car mod has to be planned and executed, not done on impulse when something nice and fancy caught ur attention when u browse at the showroom.
General guidelines?
1. What are the things u don't like abt the car?
2. What is the budget u are prepared to spend?
3. Are there any alternatives? Are u prepared to live with the consequences?
4. Then ask for specifics in the forum. With so many bros experienced in modding, they can then give specific advise to help.
When in doubt, keep ur money in ur wallet :D :D
Car mod has to be planned and executed, not done on impulse when something nice and fancy caught ur attention when u browse at the showroom.
General guidelines?
1. What are the things u don't like abt the car?
2. What is the budget u are prepared to spend?
3. Are there any alternatives? Are u prepared to live with the consequences?
4. Then ask for specifics in the forum. With so many bros experienced in modding, they can then give specific advise to help.
When in doubt, keep ur money in ur wallet :D :D
06-02-2005, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Siesta
Thanks for the advise. I couldn't grasp the concept of how it would improve the stability by alot since there is already one.(maybe lighter and stiffer due to the material).
However, there is the brake stopper factor. Just curious, how much did you get the carbing for? The titanium cusco one is ridiculously priced!
However, there is the brake stopper factor. Just curious, how much did you get the carbing for? The titanium cusco one is ridiculously priced!
Me curious U may wanna consider getting one for the boot as well! :D
06-02-2005, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Naughty Boy
Close to S$400. How much is the cusco? Me curious
U may wanna consider getting one for the boot as well! :D
Me curious U may wanna consider getting one for the boot as well! :D
my incoming toys include
- autoexe front 4 point strut bar, rear strut bar
- autoexe undercarriage brace
- autoexe stabilisers
- autoexe matervac brace (supposedly better than brake stopper)
if u guys wan, let me fix it up and let u noe whether the effect is good. Goods reaching spore tmr!!!! :D
06-02-2005, 10:59 PM
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off topic a bit, those guys eager to do up ur air intake, u may wan to hold out for AEM complete cold air intake. difference between short ram and cold air is: for short ram intake the air suction is located in the engine bay, while for cold air, its usually a long pipe down to either the fog light area or any area around there to take in cold air
refer to pic for example of AEM upcoming intake. Looks GOOD!!
refer to pic for example of AEM upcoming intake. Looks GOOD!!
06-02-2005, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by coupe07
off topic a bit, those guys eager to do up ur air intake, u may wan to hold out for AEM complete cold air intake. difference between short ram and cold air is: for short ram intake the air suction is located in the engine bay, while for cold air, its usually a long pipe down to either the fog light area or any area around there to take in cold air
refer to pic for example of AEM upcoming intake. Looks GOOD!!
refer to pic for example of AEM upcoming intake. Looks GOOD!!
one alternative, as you would have known, would be using short ram open pod, with pipes to draw air in from outside.
06-02-2005, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sandman369
comparing with short ram (losing low-end and it's hot)
As for hot air, like i explained to many bros, when the car is moving, theres no way the filter can suck in the hot air.
1. air intake is not a strong vacuum. They dun suck in air so readily. U have to induce air to the filter so that the pipe can take air in.
2. when car is moving, the hot air will escape thru the bonnet sides and from our side grilles. dats when the outside moving cold air comes in.
06-03-2005, 03:55 AM
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short ram = losing low end, this is apparent when anyone decides to go for open pod. However, changing to an open pod, the driveability of the car becomes so much better than stock filter box. Proven, cos cars with and without were being test-driven and the former has better response from test drivers.
[SM] agree. never mention short ram is bad. in fact short ram is the best esply when on highway.
As for hot air, like i explained to many bros, when the car is moving, theres no way the filter can suck in the hot air.
1. air intake is not a strong vacuum. They dun suck in air so readily. U have to induce air to the filter so that the pipe can take air in.
2. when car is moving, the hot air will escape thru the bonnet sides and from our side grilles. dats when the outside moving cold air comes in.
[SM] First, not sure your definition of strong vacuum. if it is a 2" pipe from air intake, one can already feel the vacuum even at idle. you can imagine the increase in vacuum when throttle is full. what i was saying is that when using short ram open-pod, one should induce air and preferably have a box over the open pod filter, which i believed is exactly what you are saying at last sentence in [1.] To me air intake is a strong vacuum. whether or not the air is hot at the particular location for the rx8, i am not sure, maybe you could put a thermometer to monitor. from rough estimation without going into details, that area (for short ram) looked like a dead space to me with the bonnet close. dont think there is significant air flow over at that spot. i may be wrong... but that is my take at this point.
furthermore, if it is not hot, think the stock setup need not have pipes out to the bumper area to draw air. they could have saved some plastics...
[SM] agree. never mention short ram is bad. in fact short ram is the best esply when on highway.
As for hot air, like i explained to many bros, when the car is moving, theres no way the filter can suck in the hot air.
1. air intake is not a strong vacuum. They dun suck in air so readily. U have to induce air to the filter so that the pipe can take air in.
2. when car is moving, the hot air will escape thru the bonnet sides and from our side grilles. dats when the outside moving cold air comes in.
[SM] First, not sure your definition of strong vacuum. if it is a 2" pipe from air intake, one can already feel the vacuum even at idle. you can imagine the increase in vacuum when throttle is full. what i was saying is that when using short ram open-pod, one should induce air and preferably have a box over the open pod filter, which i believed is exactly what you are saying at last sentence in [1.] To me air intake is a strong vacuum. whether or not the air is hot at the particular location for the rx8, i am not sure, maybe you could put a thermometer to monitor. from rough estimation without going into details, that area (for short ram) looked like a dead space to me with the bonnet close. dont think there is significant air flow over at that spot. i may be wrong... but that is my take at this point.
furthermore, if it is not hot, think the stock setup need not have pipes out to the bumper area to draw air. they could have saved some plastics...
06-03-2005, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Naughty Boy
Close to S$400. How much is the cusco? Me curious
U may wanna consider getting one for the boot as well! :D
Me curious U may wanna consider getting one for the boot as well! :D
The titanium cusco(2 point) was either $510 or 590. I can't remember,I sorta had a brain freeze when I heard the word 5 coming out of the mouth. But for what its worth, It was really really lightweight.
As for the boot, well lets just say doing anything to my car would have to first fall into 2 categories
1.) What the wife can see
2.) What the wife can't see
Anything that falls into category 1 must be really worth the aftermath upon installation.
06-03-2005, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by sandman369
short ram = losing low end, this is apparent when anyone decides to go for open pod. However, changing to an open pod, the driveability of the car becomes so much better than stock filter box. Proven, cos cars with and without were being test-driven and the former has better response from test drivers.
[SM] agree. never mention short ram is bad. in fact short ram is the best esply when on highway.
As for hot air, like i explained to many bros, when the car is moving, theres no way the filter can suck in the hot air.
1. air intake is not a strong vacuum. They dun suck in air so readily. U have to induce air to the filter so that the pipe can take air in.
2. when car is moving, the hot air will escape thru the bonnet sides and from our side grilles. dats when the outside moving cold air comes in.
[SM] First, not sure your definition of strong vacuum. if it is a 2" pipe from air intake, one can already feel the vacuum even at idle. you can imagine the increase in vacuum when throttle is full. what i was saying is that when using short ram open-pod, one should induce air and preferably have a box over the open pod filter, which i believed is exactly what you are saying at last sentence in [1.] To me air intake is a strong vacuum. whether or not the air is hot at the particular location for the rx8, i am not sure, maybe you could put a thermometer to monitor. from rough estimation without going into details, that area (for short ram) looked like a dead space to me with the bonnet close. dont think there is significant air flow over at that spot. i may be wrong... but that is my take at this point.
furthermore, if it is not hot, think the stock setup need not have pipes out to the bumper area to draw air. they could have saved some plastics...
[SM] agree. never mention short ram is bad. in fact short ram is the best esply when on highway.
As for hot air, like i explained to many bros, when the car is moving, theres no way the filter can suck in the hot air.
1. air intake is not a strong vacuum. They dun suck in air so readily. U have to induce air to the filter so that the pipe can take air in.
2. when car is moving, the hot air will escape thru the bonnet sides and from our side grilles. dats when the outside moving cold air comes in.
[SM] First, not sure your definition of strong vacuum. if it is a 2" pipe from air intake, one can already feel the vacuum even at idle. you can imagine the increase in vacuum when throttle is full. what i was saying is that when using short ram open-pod, one should induce air and preferably have a box over the open pod filter, which i believed is exactly what you are saying at last sentence in [1.] To me air intake is a strong vacuum. whether or not the air is hot at the particular location for the rx8, i am not sure, maybe you could put a thermometer to monitor. from rough estimation without going into details, that area (for short ram) looked like a dead space to me with the bonnet close. dont think there is significant air flow over at that spot. i may be wrong... but that is my take at this point.
furthermore, if it is not hot, think the stock setup need not have pipes out to the bumper area to draw air. they could have saved some plastics...
06-03-2005, 11:08 AM
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Siesta, u should go lift the carbing one with your finger too... 
Then compare. hehe
Come to meet on sundae, few of us have the carbing one, so feel free to looksie. If u wanna feel the weight, bring your tools, i'll gladly let u dismantle n check it out naughty boy would too! heh
CAI - Hmmmm. I tried a few 8s with the HKS and KNN. Not realli wad i expected compared to when fitted in my old EGs and fren's EKs. The low end realli died. Guess dats y i didnt install em...but well, to each his own...
Cheers
Then compare. heheCome to meet on sundae, few of us have the carbing one, so feel free to looksie. If u wanna feel the weight, bring your tools, i'll gladly let u dismantle n check it out
naughty boy would too! hehCAI - Hmmmm. I tried a few 8s with the HKS and KNN. Not realli wad i expected compared to when fitted in my old EGs and fren's EKs. The low end realli died. Guess dats y i didnt install em...but well, to each his own...
Cheers
06-03-2005, 08:50 PM
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Neon My bro-in-law got a carbing front strut in his legacy GT. If I were to purchase one i'll prob. go for the carbing too, sounds more value for money and does the same job. So where's a good place to get the carbing strut?
Coupe07 Thats alot of reinforcements you've purchased, bet a typhoon couldn't take your car apart after that. Do let us know how well you rate your purchase when you fit it on :D
Coupe07 Thats alot of reinforcements you've purchased, bet a typhoon couldn't take your car apart after that. Do let us know how well you rate your purchase when you fit it on :D
06-04-2005, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Siesta
Neon My bro-in-law got a carbing front strut in his legacy GT. If I were to purchase one i'll prob. go for the carbing too, sounds more value for money and does the same job. So where's a good place to get the carbing strut?
Coupe07 Thats alot of reinforcements you've purchased, bet a typhoon couldn't take your car apart after that. Do let us know how well you rate your purchase when you fit it on :D
Coupe07 Thats alot of reinforcements you've purchased, bet a typhoon couldn't take your car apart after that. Do let us know how well you rate your purchase when you fit it on :D
my made-in-japan car should have the conti-feel, according to autoexe's racing mechanic...... hehehehehe :D
06-04-2005, 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by coupe07
no prob, will definitely post pics during installation and the aftermath.
my made-in-japan car should have the conti-feel, according to autoexe's racing mechanic...... hehehehehe :D
my made-in-japan car should have the conti-feel, according to autoexe's racing mechanic...... hehehehehe :D
Actually I'm a lousy driver. Drove my friends CLK220 and test drove a Pos Boxster and a Lotus Elise too. still can't tell the diff between what u said Japn and Conti -Feel..
What should I look out for in order to tell the diff (in terms of driving, not car brand or price :D )
Thanks
06-04-2005, 06:06 PM
#19
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You really have to drive a car with sway (stabiliser) bars and the one without.
I honesty said I have the front tower (strut) bar, rear strut put in together with the front and rear sway from MazdaSpeed. However, I found a lot of different and handling and the reduce roll is amazing.
Sway bar is not a good start and it works! Believe me.
Of course Neon, it always better with a set of coilover.
The Mastervac is not required if you have the MazdaSpeed strut since there is a tight extension to the master cylinder.
The under brace from Autoexe is 10x better than the MazdaSpeed one, but the effect of 11kg at the base of the car will lower the centre of gravity - I don't know about that :p
I honesty said I have the front tower (strut) bar, rear strut put in together with the front and rear sway from MazdaSpeed. However, I found a lot of different and handling and the reduce roll is amazing.
Sway bar is not a good start and it works! Believe me.
Of course Neon, it always better with a set of coilover.
The Mastervac is not required if you have the MazdaSpeed strut since there is a tight extension to the master cylinder.
The under brace from Autoexe is 10x better than the MazdaSpeed one, but the effect of 11kg at the base of the car will lower the centre of gravity - I don't know about that :p
06-04-2005, 06:08 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by coupe07
off topic a bit, those guys eager to do up ur air intake, u may wan to hold out for AEM complete cold air intake. difference between short ram and cold air is: for short ram intake the air suction is located in the engine bay, while for cold air, its usually a long pipe down to either the fog light area or any area around there to take in cold air
refer to pic for example of AEM upcoming intake. Looks GOOD!!
refer to pic for example of AEM upcoming intake. Looks GOOD!!
What happen when it rains
?
06-04-2005, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by morganoh
Actually I'm a lousy driver. Drove my friends CLK220 and test drove a Pos Boxster and a Lotus Elise too. still can't tell the diff between what u said Japn and Conti -Feel..
What should I look out for in order to tell the diff (in terms of driving, not car brand or price :D )
Thanks
What should I look out for in order to tell the diff (in terms of driving, not car brand or price :D )
Thanks
let me try and let u noe.....
06-05-2005, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by coupe07
pardon me, but r u using open pod?
06-06-2005, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by sandman369
car is new and have not touched it. am weighing on the options of what to start with... definitely not with the intake.
dun have to touch the intake if u r not comfortable altho that is one of the cheapest and noticeable mod for our car.....
how abt audio? since performance mods not yet? or kits?
06-06-2005, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by coupe07
once u start, u cun stop.......
dun have to touch the intake if u r not comfortable altho that is one of the cheapest and noticeable mod for our car.....
how abt audio? since performance mods not yet? or kits?
dun have to touch the intake if u r not comfortable altho that is one of the cheapest and noticeable mod for our car.....
how abt audio? since performance mods not yet? or kits?
sadly, have to weigh carefully as budget is not there for my car... got other commitments
body kits: good and nice to have but i have to choose over performance since there is a budget.
Audio: only put in a 6" bass tube with a 300W amp driving it. wanted to also change the fronst speakers with an amp to drive it, but simply cant find a place to fit in an amp... unless I put in the boot will have to run more wires which I dont quite like it (think the audio guy see the wiring of the 8 and advised against it. not sure why)... but currently am quite please with the system... at least for now. Also installed a Defi oil temp.
am looking out for susp now... thinking of tein coilovers. offered by a shop for about 1.9k for the super street. but need to test the stock susp on NS before deciding... at this point dont quite like the stock setup.
06-06-2005, 10:08 PM
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ya you're right about intake being an affordable mod. i really like the HKS mushroom... but think it is about 1k plus right? that is one sweet intake...
i wldnt spend 1k on an intake. ANd if i really were to do dat, i wldnt even consider HKS. Would rather take RE amemiya intake or autoexe intake. At least i noe they are well suited for the rotary since they are the gurus......
sadly, have to weigh carefully as budget is not there for my car... got other commitments
This is always the utmost worry...... :p
body kits: good and nice to have but i have to choose over performance since there is a budget.
COOL!!
Audio: only put in a 6" bass tube with a 300W amp driving it. wanted to also change the fronst speakers with an amp to drive it, but simply cant find a place to fit in an amp... unless I put in the boot will have to run more wires which I dont quite like it (think the audio guy see the wiring of the 8 and advised against it. not sure why)... but currently am quite please with the system... at least for now.
Ur another amp can well be hidden under the front passenger seat since u dun wan the run the cables to the rear. My 2 amps are bolted on to the rear of my rear passenger seats. dunno y ur audio advised u against fixing it at the rear.... many 8s have been fixed up with amps at the rear and sound has been good or rather so far so good. Me have blasted my system at kallang before to test whther the sound will break or not, tink some guys heard mine before. sound is ok, altho my setup is not top of the world. Juz good enuf quality for everyday listening :o
Also installed a Defi oil temp.
did u use an oil adapter to install ur oil temp? if u got the adapter, might as well get the oil pressure as well, since it is also using the same adapter. dun waste the adapter, fully utilise it!! :D
am looking out for susp now... thinking of tein coilovers. offered by a shop for about 1.9k for the super street. but need to test the stock susp on NS before deciding... at this point dont quite like the stock setup.
TEIN has always been the most value for money coilover for all cars. Coupled it with the EDFC, this setup is good enuf for everyday driving with some hard cornerings here n there. although not top range, again, value for money is the word. Stock suspension is still ok for daily use, but if u are into hard driving always, then change them. Since ur suspensions are rather new, y not wear them out first before changing?
i wldnt spend 1k on an intake. ANd if i really were to do dat, i wldnt even consider HKS. Would rather take RE amemiya intake or autoexe intake. At least i noe they are well suited for the rotary since they are the gurus......
sadly, have to weigh carefully as budget is not there for my car... got other commitments
This is always the utmost worry...... :p
body kits: good and nice to have but i have to choose over performance since there is a budget.
COOL!!
Audio: only put in a 6" bass tube with a 300W amp driving it. wanted to also change the fronst speakers with an amp to drive it, but simply cant find a place to fit in an amp... unless I put in the boot will have to run more wires which I dont quite like it (think the audio guy see the wiring of the 8 and advised against it. not sure why)... but currently am quite please with the system... at least for now.
Ur another amp can well be hidden under the front passenger seat since u dun wan the run the cables to the rear. My 2 amps are bolted on to the rear of my rear passenger seats. dunno y ur audio advised u against fixing it at the rear.... many 8s have been fixed up with amps at the rear and sound has been good or rather so far so good. Me have blasted my system at kallang before to test whther the sound will break or not, tink some guys heard mine before. sound is ok, altho my setup is not top of the world. Juz good enuf quality for everyday listening :o
Also installed a Defi oil temp.
did u use an oil adapter to install ur oil temp? if u got the adapter, might as well get the oil pressure as well, since it is also using the same adapter. dun waste the adapter, fully utilise it!! :D
am looking out for susp now... thinking of tein coilovers. offered by a shop for about 1.9k for the super street. but need to test the stock susp on NS before deciding... at this point dont quite like the stock setup.
TEIN has always been the most value for money coilover for all cars. Coupled it with the EDFC, this setup is good enuf for everyday driving with some hard cornerings here n there. although not top range, again, value for money is the word. Stock suspension is still ok for daily use, but if u are into hard driving always, then change them. Since ur suspensions are rather new, y not wear them out first before changing?