'68 Charger Pro Street - buying advice
#1
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'68 Charger Pro Street - buying advice
Hey guys, gonna look at one this weekend, $15500 CDN. All I know is that it has a crate motor that does 600hp, it's streetable, has strange axles, Dana 60 rear end, TCI trans., 3200 stall, tubbed w/ inboard springs, frame connectors, flow master 40’s, fuel cell with 2 Holly electric fuel pumps.
...don't know much about half this stuff. Wanted a toy for the odd cruise and maybe do strips.
In my teens I had a muscle car - a Grand Prix with a 455 that I did the usual carb. and header type stuff. But nothing as serious as this Charger. I'm no mechanic, but I can wrench better than most.
For those who have tried or know old muscle cars, what can I be getting myself into? Seems like too good a price.
...don't know much about half this stuff. Wanted a toy for the odd cruise and maybe do strips.
In my teens I had a muscle car - a Grand Prix with a 455 that I did the usual carb. and header type stuff. But nothing as serious as this Charger. I'm no mechanic, but I can wrench better than most.
For those who have tried or know old muscle cars, what can I be getting myself into? Seems like too good a price.
#2
He's as bad as Can
Did the prior owner drag race that car?? Doesn't look like much of a streetable setup. The amount of work done to it also makes any classic car value zero. So the question you might want to ask yourself is what would $15,500 CDN invested in a car from the 90's get you?
#3
Sounds like a pretty wicked rod. That thing sounds built to the point, the only thing your break is traction. You really need to drive that thing first. See how it runns in stop and go traffic. How it takes off if it over heats and so on.
Those are all very good parts, as long as it was all put together right. It sounds like its built as a drag car and has the right parts to do it well, but as I said above test drive it if you plan to try and street drive it.
Those are all very good parts, as long as it was all put together right. It sounds like its built as a drag car and has the right parts to do it well, but as I said above test drive it if you plan to try and street drive it.
#4
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If this car was in good condition and had oem parts, it would probably be worth a lot more money. Late 60's Mopars auction for more than Chevys or Ford muscle cars because less were built (I think they rusted out faster too).
It sounds like half the cost of the car is for the motor. Get underneath and check the frame real good. With that much motor you could twist the frame, on a launch, if it is weak.
It sounds like half the cost of the car is for the motor. Get underneath and check the frame real good. With that much motor you could twist the frame, on a launch, if it is weak.
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Thanks for the feedback.
The owner said he dragged it on occasion, though it has a full roll bar and slicks so I think he's understating that.
I'm not into a numbers correct classic, though I know their value is great. Considering it's tubbed with a roll bar and few original parts, there's no going back anyways.
If it looks good this weekend, I'll probably do a return trip and pay some expert to check things out with me and give me advice - like I wonder if motors like that need a tear down every 5000 miles!?
The owner said he dragged it on occasion, though it has a full roll bar and slicks so I think he's understating that.
I'm not into a numbers correct classic, though I know their value is great. Considering it's tubbed with a roll bar and few original parts, there's no going back anyways.
If it looks good this weekend, I'll probably do a return trip and pay some expert to check things out with me and give me advice - like I wonder if motors like that need a tear down every 5000 miles!?
#6
Most if not all of Mopar's crate motors are designed to be streetable, so I don't think you'll be replacing them every 5,000 miles. As long as it has streetable compression and doesn't have aluminum rods or a totally unstreetable cam, you should be okay. Ask him which motor it is, I know the 528 hemi makes 600 hp but that's a $15k (USD) motor just by itself. He's probably exaggerating the HP and has a lesser crate motor if he's asking $15k for the whole car. Also I would have his chassis work inspected by someone who knows their ****, my old '57 chevy pickup had a real hack job of a IFS grafted on the front by the previous owner.
Something not nearly as cool, that's for sure.
And if the car was originally a low-options model with a slant 6 or whatever, I tend to doubt that it would be worth very much if it were in museum condition.
And if the car was originally a low-options model with a slant 6 or whatever, I tend to doubt that it would be worth very much if it were in museum condition.
Last edited by BaronVonBigmeat; 06-22-2007 at 11:34 AM.
#7
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Back in the day, I had a 68 Charger. With all the mods, probably close to 650 HP. I got about 1 mile to the gallon. You wouldn't want to go cruising around in that thing today. I would imagine this car would be pretty similar in that respect. It gives you something to think about.
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Sounds like a helluva ride. I would ask a series of questions to ensure the car hasn't been in a collision. Obviously find out why he's selling as well. Other than that, good luck. I miss my old Barracuda everyday.
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thats a real high stall for the street. which will also make it loud for driving it on the street (have to reach 3200rpm's to go). also if your in stop and go traffic that torque converter will overheat quickly unless you have a big transmission cooler and even then it probably wont last long. remember heat is a auto's number 1 enemy (with muscle cars).
man i miss my 70 camaro . oh and be prepared for an ill handling car.. check all the bushings cause they will most likely need to be replaced.
man i miss my 70 camaro . oh and be prepared for an ill handling car.. check all the bushings cause they will most likely need to be replaced.
#10
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Since you don't know much about the set-up I'd have a performance shop/mechanic take a look at it before putting down any cash.
If you want it and can afford it I say GET IT!
You only live once ya know.
If you want it and can afford it I say GET IT!
You only live once ya know.
#11
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That car sounds awesome. I echo what Tiger is saying.... if you aren't experienced enough, get a mechanic to "sign off" for you.
You won't be driving this car daily.
You won't be driving this car daily.
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Well, no deal.
The body is mostly fiberglass, which disappointed me, but that wasn't the reason I didn't buy.
It was originally a 383 car that was built up in the 80's by its second owner. With its 440 crate engine, it's a true 10 second car (has the slips to prove), but no major work has been done by its current owner, its 3rd. So while it does have top shelf components, they are 20 years old, so I'm thinking I'd have nothing but rebuilds. And the current owner knows less about these cars than I do, which suggests to me it wasn't maintained properly - he couldn't tell me what kind of compression it was running (!!), but it only runs on race gas. This is what did it, I'm interested in a street rod and this thing was way too wound up. With a 3200 stall, I'd kill the neighborhood kids just leaving my street!
Nice strip car though, and although it's plated, it's simply not enough "street" for a street rod - though a part of me still wants it.
Thanks to all with the advice...but the search continues.
The body is mostly fiberglass, which disappointed me, but that wasn't the reason I didn't buy.
It was originally a 383 car that was built up in the 80's by its second owner. With its 440 crate engine, it's a true 10 second car (has the slips to prove), but no major work has been done by its current owner, its 3rd. So while it does have top shelf components, they are 20 years old, so I'm thinking I'd have nothing but rebuilds. And the current owner knows less about these cars than I do, which suggests to me it wasn't maintained properly - he couldn't tell me what kind of compression it was running (!!), but it only runs on race gas. This is what did it, I'm interested in a street rod and this thing was way too wound up. With a 3200 stall, I'd kill the neighborhood kids just leaving my street!
Nice strip car though, and although it's plated, it's simply not enough "street" for a street rod - though a part of me still wants it.
Thanks to all with the advice...but the search continues.
#13
You're better off without this car if you want to drive it on the street. In fact, stay away from any tubbed car if you want to drive on the street. If it's tubbed then it's probably spooled as well. A spool posi unit and turns are not good bed fellows. Find yourself a good pro touring restoration for a fast streetable muscle car.
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Shakezula, the Mic Rula
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You're better off without this car if you want to drive it on the street. In fact, stay away from any tubbed car if you want to drive on the street. If it's tubbed then it's probably spooled as well. A spool posi unit and turns are not good bed fellows. Find yourself a good pro touring restoration for a fast streetable muscle car.
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You're better off without this car if you want to drive it on the street. In fact, stay away from any tubbed car if you want to drive on the street. If it's tubbed then it's probably spooled as well. A spool posi unit and turns are not good bed fellows. Find yourself a good pro touring restoration for a fast streetable muscle car.
#16
#17
Oh.....I know what you mean. It's hard not to get excited when you see them on the street......but having driven one on the street a couple of occassions, I'm content seeing others drive them around instead.
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