Another request for info on daily driver Rotors and Brake Pads
#1
Another request for info on daily driver Rotors and Brake Pads
I have spent 2 days reading different posts about rotors and brake pads and I am still confused????
2005 Auto with 52K miles - rotors and pads original, brake fluid low due to significant wear on pads, rotors have the bumping thing going on (from what I have read from old pad build up?
I do not race and never will do so. I drive the car 60 miles round trip Mon-Fri to work in stop and go traffic.
I like the idea of not having to buy new rotors and only buying upgraded pads - Carbotech or Cobalt $350 - $400 for 4. I not crazy about buying "Racing Brake Pads" and supposedly the dust resulting from them.
I HATE THE WAY THE STOCK ROTORS RUST WHEN THEY GET WET!!! I wanted to buy the drilled and slotted sets that are anodized on Ebay for $300 but think this is probably a waste from what I have read.
[SIZE="5"]My question is what should I do for the best results. By that I mean another $50k without brake issues (if possible). Price is not a big issue but looks is important to me. "I like perty thangs"[/SIZE]
I am doing all the work, so should I:
1. Just turn the stock rotors and buy regular pads?[/LIST]2. Buy the perty slotted and drilled anodized from ebay with cheap pads?
3. Buy Carbotech pads 8 and 10's and try the bed-in process with the current rotors?
I know thisthread is too long but If you make a recommendation please tell me where you bought the pads or rotors and how much you paid, please.
It looks like it is really difficult to find vendors to purchase the Carbotech and cobalt pads from in a resonable delivery time frame???
Thanks for reading and I am really looking forward to hearing advice as I am ordering the beginning of this week
2005 Auto with 52K miles - rotors and pads original, brake fluid low due to significant wear on pads, rotors have the bumping thing going on (from what I have read from old pad build up?
I do not race and never will do so. I drive the car 60 miles round trip Mon-Fri to work in stop and go traffic.
I like the idea of not having to buy new rotors and only buying upgraded pads - Carbotech or Cobalt $350 - $400 for 4. I not crazy about buying "Racing Brake Pads" and supposedly the dust resulting from them.
I HATE THE WAY THE STOCK ROTORS RUST WHEN THEY GET WET!!! I wanted to buy the drilled and slotted sets that are anodized on Ebay for $300 but think this is probably a waste from what I have read.
[SIZE="5"]My question is what should I do for the best results. By that I mean another $50k without brake issues (if possible). Price is not a big issue but looks is important to me. "I like perty thangs"[/SIZE]
I am doing all the work, so should I:
1. Just turn the stock rotors and buy regular pads?[/LIST]2. Buy the perty slotted and drilled anodized from ebay with cheap pads?
3. Buy Carbotech pads 8 and 10's and try the bed-in process with the current rotors?
I know thisthread is too long but If you make a recommendation please tell me where you bought the pads or rotors and how much you paid, please.
It looks like it is really difficult to find vendors to purchase the Carbotech and cobalt pads from in a resonable delivery time frame???
Thanks for reading and I am really looking forward to hearing advice as I am ordering the beginning of this week
#2
take off your stock rotors and paint them black in all the areas the pad does not touch
eventually your new slotted/drilled rotors will begin to rust as well.
I'm running Hawk HP+ pads for about the past 10k and have not had any issues with them and would recommend them for a DD (might be overkill actually)
eventually your new slotted/drilled rotors will begin to rust as well.
I'm running Hawk HP+ pads for about the past 10k and have not had any issues with them and would recommend them for a DD (might be overkill actually)
#3
take off your stock rotors and paint them black in all the areas the pad does not touch
eventually your new slotted/drilled rotors will begin to rust as well.
I'm running Hawk HP+ pads for about the past 10k and have not had any issues with them and would recommend them for a DD (might be overkill actually)
eventually your new slotted/drilled rotors will begin to rust as well.
I'm running Hawk HP+ pads for about the past 10k and have not had any issues with them and would recommend them for a DD (might be overkill actually)
Did you turn the rotors before installing new pads? Where did you buy the pads and how much were they? Thanks!
#4
if you order new stock rotors from mazda they come painted now in the center so no rust. hawk hps pads are better for dd than the hp+'s. we have great rotors stock so no need to spend alot on fancy rotors especially if you are not tracking.
#5
#6
Apologies, if I read this wrong, it is possible that you are suggesting turning a rotor instead of buying new ones, which is perfectly acceptable, and should be done always whenever you put on new pads.
Last edited by hornbm; 03-07-2011 at 02:31 PM.
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