Manual Transmission issues
#1
Manual Transmission issues
Ok I'm having some problems with my DD, a 2003 Ford Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5sp MT and I'm hoping you guys can shed some light on it for me. I've asked some car-savvy people around here including our mechanic at work (I'm an electrician) and even he was stumped (although I sometimes question his knowledge).
Alright so while at a stand-still in neutral, it is sometimes (used to be occasionally, then turned into frequently, and right now it's basically always) REALLY hard to get the shifter into gear. ANY gear. I basically have to slam it into first, or rock it between second and first a few times to make it go.
But again, it's the same for 3rd, 4th and 5th. At a stand-still.
As soon as I start rolling though, I have zero problems. All the gears go in smooth, even first, as long as I'm moving. But if I stop, it's instantly a bitch. Again, every now and then it'll go in smooth sitting still too, but it's been getting worse and worse over time.
I'm far from a mechanic, but I'm guessing this is something I will have to have repaired pretty soon or it will be completely fubar'ed.
Oh and one more thing, I changed the Manual transmission fluid a few weeks back. The old fluid was basically completely black (it takes ATF) which was a little strange (I guess?). Although after changing it it seemed to shift better for a few weeks, but then turned to **** again.
I would appreciate any help before I spend my life savings going to a transmission place or worse, the Ford Dealer. Thanks!
Alright so while at a stand-still in neutral, it is sometimes (used to be occasionally, then turned into frequently, and right now it's basically always) REALLY hard to get the shifter into gear. ANY gear. I basically have to slam it into first, or rock it between second and first a few times to make it go.
But again, it's the same for 3rd, 4th and 5th. At a stand-still.
As soon as I start rolling though, I have zero problems. All the gears go in smooth, even first, as long as I'm moving. But if I stop, it's instantly a bitch. Again, every now and then it'll go in smooth sitting still too, but it's been getting worse and worse over time.
I'm far from a mechanic, but I'm guessing this is something I will have to have repaired pretty soon or it will be completely fubar'ed.
Oh and one more thing, I changed the Manual transmission fluid a few weeks back. The old fluid was basically completely black (it takes ATF) which was a little strange (I guess?). Although after changing it it seemed to shift better for a few weeks, but then turned to **** again.
I would appreciate any help before I spend my life savings going to a transmission place or worse, the Ford Dealer. Thanks!
#3
And that would cause problems only when standing still? I've had many guesses, such as throw-out bearing, slave cylinder, synchronizer.. Was just hoping to get a "oh that's definitely THIS" or something
#4
Bump.
Just drove it again for a few fairly short errands and every single shift went smooth as cream. Not a single hiccup. I'm pretty sure my drive was long enough for the transmission to be warmed up, but I don't think that's an issue as it'll be hard to shift when I first get in it after work in the afternoons. But the fact that it is screwy sometimes, and perfectly fine other times really gets me.
Any good explanations besides "I'm guessing X"? I know there are hundreds of people on here that work on cars every day! C'mon
Just drove it again for a few fairly short errands and every single shift went smooth as cream. Not a single hiccup. I'm pretty sure my drive was long enough for the transmission to be warmed up, but I don't think that's an issue as it'll be hard to shift when I first get in it after work in the afternoons. But the fact that it is screwy sometimes, and perfectly fine other times really gets me.
Any good explanations besides "I'm guessing X"? I know there are hundreds of people on here that work on cars every day! C'mon
#5
It likely is a clutch issue...my first guess would be a hydraulic problem if it changes with temperature
Check the master and slave for the clutch to see if they are leaking
Or the wrong fluid that isn't allowing the syncros to work properly?
Check the master and slave for the clutch to see if they are leaking
Or the wrong fluid that isn't allowing the syncros to work properly?
#6
Well I used the Mercon ATF that was given in the manual, but maybe since it's getting old and worn (76k miles) it may need a thicker lubricant? Since changing the fluid seemed to help it at first, maybe there's something to it?
#7
I would stick with the fluid recommended in the manual or equivalent. Transmissions don't like it when you put the wrong type of fluid in them. Especially if they have soft metals like brass.
Is it temperature related or Engine speed vs. road speed related? EG: does it go away when it's warm even from a stand still or does it go away when the engine speed and wheel speeds are close together?
If it's temp related I would go after what Dan said and check the hydraulic system for your clutch. Do you know if the clutch fluid has ever been replaced? Or check the clutch line for leaks.
If it's speed related it could be bad synchros.
Is it temperature related or Engine speed vs. road speed related? EG: does it go away when it's warm even from a stand still or does it go away when the engine speed and wheel speeds are close together?
If it's temp related I would go after what Dan said and check the hydraulic system for your clutch. Do you know if the clutch fluid has ever been replaced? Or check the clutch line for leaks.
If it's speed related it could be bad synchros.
#8
Well like i said earlier, I don't think it has to do with temperature, as it'll give me a fit even when I first get in it, and keep at it as it warms up. Then other days it'll work perfectly fine whether it's warm or cold. The only time it acts up is when I'm completely stopped. Revving the engine makes no difference either, so from what I can tell it's only road speed related.
edit: oh and yea it's got the recommended fluid in it, and I've had it since '06 and 15k miles and I know the clutch fluid hasn't been replaced in that time so most likely not at all.
edit: oh and yea it's got the recommended fluid in it, and I've had it since '06 and 15k miles and I know the clutch fluid hasn't been replaced in that time so most likely not at all.
Last edited by York; 09-27-2010 at 06:09 AM.
#9
Is your disengagement point on the clutch pedal near the floor?
If you're in first at a stand-still and slowly let off the pedal, how far up before the vehicle starts to move?
Does the pedal feel spongy like there is air in the line?
This sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging, which would point to hydraulics (master cylinder, slave cylinder, fluid).
And it would explain why you can get into gear easier when in motion because the input and output shafts are spinning together and easier to synchronize.
At a stand-still, the input shaft is still trying to spin some (because you're not fully disengaged) and won't "synchronize" to the stationary output shaft.
If you're in first at a stand-still and slowly let off the pedal, how far up before the vehicle starts to move?
Does the pedal feel spongy like there is air in the line?
This sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging, which would point to hydraulics (master cylinder, slave cylinder, fluid).
And it would explain why you can get into gear easier when in motion because the input and output shafts are spinning together and easier to synchronize.
At a stand-still, the input shaft is still trying to spin some (because you're not fully disengaged) and won't "synchronize" to the stationary output shaft.
#10
No i'd say i have to let the pedal about half way out before it starts to grab. I'm no expert but as far as i can tell the clutch feels like it always has, i think? How do i check to see if either cylinder is the problem? Just look for leaks? The clutch fluid reservoir is still full.
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