the most fuel efficient rotary possible
#1
the most fuel efficient rotary possible
I want to make the most fuel efficient rotary I can, I have a 13b im thinking of smaller injectors, smaller intake diamater and tuned with a safc that I have and Im not using.this is going into a b1800 truck I want it to be rotary and I want at least 25 mpg
What do you guys think, think it will work?
What do you guys think, think it will work?
#2
stock 13b engines even the renesis are capable of near 30 mpg if they are running right and are at a steady speed. you don't need to change anything. I've gotten nearly 27 mpg on long roadtrips in my rx8 it is possible. I've seen FC's get 30+.
if you tune it lean keep the rpms low and try to maintain a steady speed you can easily get mid to high 20's.
if you tune it lean keep the rpms low and try to maintain a steady speed you can easily get mid to high 20's.
#4
lean the engine retard the timing and it'll get much better mileage. if you have a canzoomer/blue emanage, you can do better. if you want even better mileage you can get a lower ratio rear diff gear. like a 4.1 or a 3.9 then every gear will be taller. that would really help your highway mileage.
look here
https://www.rx8club.com/mazmart-88/improved-fuel-mileage-4-1-here-78759/
look here
https://www.rx8club.com/mazmart-88/improved-fuel-mileage-4-1-here-78759/
#10
Originally Posted by BlueSky
Aseras, is there any way to make a powerful and still fuel-effecient rotary? Something like the BMW inline-6's which are powerful and very very good on fuel consumption.
but even if you got 60 mpg forever it'd still never pay for the 15-20K it'd cost to mod your car to that.
#11
Originally Posted by therm8
Put the Renesis in a 1000lb car. The motor's already the most efficient rotary ever, it's just stuck in a 3000lb car.
#12
my 20b cosmo gets consistan 15 to 19 mpg city driving
now Im considering going turbo or NA, I really dont want a lot of power but 180 rwhp would be nice, it is more importand to me to get good gas milage and the truck weights 2400 pounds.
now Im considering going turbo or NA, I really dont want a lot of power but 180 rwhp would be nice, it is more importand to me to get good gas milage and the truck weights 2400 pounds.
Last edited by rotary crazy; 08-04-2006 at 03:31 PM.
#14
Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
n/a FB's and FC's get decent mile to the gallon for a rotary... i dont think a rotary would work in a modern compact truck due to the lack of torque... unless its the 20B.
#15
Originally Posted by rotary crazy
^ with a 12.1 afr and a 4.44 rear diff ^
#16
Originally Posted by therm8
Those values are extranious to the efficiency of the engine. That's tuning and drivetrain. Neither of which would be going into the truck.
im sure a renesis in this truck would give really good milage, but my buged for this proyect its really limited, im going to work with parts that I allready have, I was looking for a truck to work and I got a b2000 for free with no engine and needing some repairs so it is a low bugget proyect but its going to rock when Im finish with it
#18
First off if you want to get gas mileage, don't follow the suggestion of a 4.44 rear end. It's already a dumb choice in the RX-8. A very important part of fuel economy isn't only air fuel ratio but rather air fuel ratio over time. An engine at a higher rpm with a leaner mixture may get worse mileage than a richer mixture run at a lower rpm. Stick to the 3.80 rear end or so but don't go over 4.10. You still need to have it tuned perfectly though.
Of course mileage is worthless if you can't get moving and it takes power to do this. Smaller fuel injectors will help slightly as they have a finer mist pattern to them. They still need to provide the same amount of fuel though. When the rotor moves around the chamber, any swirl or mixing tecniques in the engine are pretty much gone by the time it gets to the combustion point. You may or may not see any meaureable benefit from smaller injectors although the idea can't hurt as long as fuel supply is adequate.
With a taller rear end in the truck, you don't need the rpm's. You do need more low end power though so longer intake runners will be necessary. Since you intend to use a 13B, get a 6 port and keep the auxiliary ports working. Don't do what so may RX-7 owners do by losing usable power all in the name of engine bay simplicity by disconnecting them to default open.
Use a long primay exhaust system. Keep the header pipes completely separate all the way to the back of the vehicle. Then collect them at a 2.5" collector right before the muffler.
Other things you can do are to insulate anything possible. Keep as much heat as you can out of the intake manifold. Go to great lengths if necessary. Ceramic coat it, heat wrap it, whatever. Do this to the entire intake system. Get "cold air" from the front of the vehicle. Do not under any circumstances put your filter and air intake pickup point in the engine bay heat. Bad idea. Terrible for power and efficiency.
These combined with less than agressive driving habits will get you what you want. If you want to push it further in both economy and power and have a larger budget to work with, we'll talk about a small turbocharged 1 rotor. I'll leave that for another time.
Of course mileage is worthless if you can't get moving and it takes power to do this. Smaller fuel injectors will help slightly as they have a finer mist pattern to them. They still need to provide the same amount of fuel though. When the rotor moves around the chamber, any swirl or mixing tecniques in the engine are pretty much gone by the time it gets to the combustion point. You may or may not see any meaureable benefit from smaller injectors although the idea can't hurt as long as fuel supply is adequate.
With a taller rear end in the truck, you don't need the rpm's. You do need more low end power though so longer intake runners will be necessary. Since you intend to use a 13B, get a 6 port and keep the auxiliary ports working. Don't do what so may RX-7 owners do by losing usable power all in the name of engine bay simplicity by disconnecting them to default open.
Use a long primay exhaust system. Keep the header pipes completely separate all the way to the back of the vehicle. Then collect them at a 2.5" collector right before the muffler.
Other things you can do are to insulate anything possible. Keep as much heat as you can out of the intake manifold. Go to great lengths if necessary. Ceramic coat it, heat wrap it, whatever. Do this to the entire intake system. Get "cold air" from the front of the vehicle. Do not under any circumstances put your filter and air intake pickup point in the engine bay heat. Bad idea. Terrible for power and efficiency.
These combined with less than agressive driving habits will get you what you want. If you want to push it further in both economy and power and have a larger budget to work with, we'll talk about a small turbocharged 1 rotor. I'll leave that for another time.
#20
Rx8 engine
Hey guys,
I just bought up a rx8..... Been few months now did servicing and spark plug change on it..... But I don't know why the engine cuts off when I use A/C and it's kinda been a little bit fussy when I try to start it up.... I am from Fiji so any idea what's wrong?
I just bought up a rx8..... Been few months now did servicing and spark plug change on it..... But I don't know why the engine cuts off when I use A/C and it's kinda been a little bit fussy when I try to start it up.... I am from Fiji so any idea what's wrong?
#21
Hey guys,
I just bought up a rx8..... Been few months now did servicing and spark plug change on it..... But I don't know why the engine cuts off when I use A/C and it's kinda been a little bit fussy when I try to start it up.... I am from Fiji so any idea what's wrong?
I just bought up a rx8..... Been few months now did servicing and spark plug change on it..... But I don't know why the engine cuts off when I use A/C and it's kinda been a little bit fussy when I try to start it up.... I am from Fiji so any idea what's wrong?
Do you have hard starting when the engine is hot, cold or both?
#22
Yes when the engine is hot it is difficult to start and when it's cold sometimes it starts easily and sometimes it takes time
#23
It could be something as simple as a weak starter (with an upgrade path to a faster spinning starter), the need for an ignition system refresh, or your engine could be suffering from low compression.
Have fun reading and researching.
BC.
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