The GOODbox
07-20-2010, 09:49 AM
#156
Notes on the general Goodbox install
Here are a few details and comments on how it went.
1) Be careful - this is not a project to be done with a pair a crimpers in one hand and a beer in the other.
2) It's easier to access the "mystery bolt" if one pulls off the panel under the steering column first. The plastic cover clips at its top, then opens down on a hinge, basically like the glovebox. Pull on the top edge until the pop-in clips release, open it, then pull it off the hinges. Underneath there's a metal panel held in by 4 screws.
3) The harness connection to the radio/AC head unit does not have to be undone. It's no problem to route the goodbox harness wires down the back of it with it still in the car. It's a good idea though to drape a clean shop rag over the face to prevent scratches.
4) The nav-equipped cars have an extra harness to run the 7" nav display. Don't confuse that with the harness running to the LED panel itself (like I did). The connector shown on page 4, panel 3 of the install instructions is white; mine (an '06) is black.
5) The fuse for the cigar lighter circuit is 15A which gives 180A of power. In the even of a short in the goodbox or gauge wiring, you definitely don't want 22 gauge wire to be seeing 180W. If you are not using the cigar plug, and only using the circuit to power the goodbox and gauges, change that fuse to something like 5A or less. If you are still using the plug, add a low current inline fuse to the goodbox and gauge power.
6) If you are planning to use the 2 analogue inputs, solder in the wires before you install it. The box is tiny, everything is packed in very close together. If you have never soldered stuff before, get someone who has to do the job for you. Like welding and paint spraying, soldering is an art. If you decide to do it yourself, start by taking out the circuit board and identifying the input points. 18 gauge wire fits the hole perfectly (though it's much heavier than electrically required). Strip about 2-3mm of insulation off the end of the wire, insert the wire into the hole from the top, secure the board bottom side up in a small vise and, using a 3rd had or similar arrangement, hold the board and wire securely in place. With a carefully tinned, small tip soldering iron, heat up the wire. When it's hot enough, a tiny bit of additional solder will flow neatly down the wire and into the hole. Let cool and inspect carefully with a magnifying glass to make sure no solder has run over to the posts for the barometer or other nearby circuits on the board. Put identifying labels on the wires, run them out next to the vacuum nipple, close up the box and you're done.
7) The male connectors which insert into the wire taps can be hard to seat fully in place. If they are not seated fully, they will fall off. I used a channel-lock type pliar to "help" the stubborn ones on. Also, as you insert the connector into the tap look through the plastic from the side to make sure the spade goes into the slot for it; the slot is narrow and if you miss, you can push the connector on, but not have the spade in the right place (don't ask me how I know this!)
1) Be careful - this is not a project to be done with a pair a crimpers in one hand and a beer in the other.
2) It's easier to access the "mystery bolt" if one pulls off the panel under the steering column first. The plastic cover clips at its top, then opens down on a hinge, basically like the glovebox. Pull on the top edge until the pop-in clips release, open it, then pull it off the hinges. Underneath there's a metal panel held in by 4 screws.
3) The harness connection to the radio/AC head unit does not have to be undone. It's no problem to route the goodbox harness wires down the back of it with it still in the car. It's a good idea though to drape a clean shop rag over the face to prevent scratches.
4) The nav-equipped cars have an extra harness to run the 7" nav display. Don't confuse that with the harness running to the LED panel itself (like I did). The connector shown on page 4, panel 3 of the install instructions is white; mine (an '06) is black.
5) The fuse for the cigar lighter circuit is 15A which gives 180A of power. In the even of a short in the goodbox or gauge wiring, you definitely don't want 22 gauge wire to be seeing 180W. If you are not using the cigar plug, and only using the circuit to power the goodbox and gauges, change that fuse to something like 5A or less. If you are still using the plug, add a low current inline fuse to the goodbox and gauge power.
6) If you are planning to use the 2 analogue inputs, solder in the wires before you install it. The box is tiny, everything is packed in very close together. If you have never soldered stuff before, get someone who has to do the job for you. Like welding and paint spraying, soldering is an art. If you decide to do it yourself, start by taking out the circuit board and identifying the input points. 18 gauge wire fits the hole perfectly (though it's much heavier than electrically required). Strip about 2-3mm of insulation off the end of the wire, insert the wire into the hole from the top, secure the board bottom side up in a small vise and, using a 3rd had or similar arrangement, hold the board and wire securely in place. With a carefully tinned, small tip soldering iron, heat up the wire. When it's hot enough, a tiny bit of additional solder will flow neatly down the wire and into the hole. Let cool and inspect carefully with a magnifying glass to make sure no solder has run over to the posts for the barometer or other nearby circuits on the board. Put identifying labels on the wires, run them out next to the vacuum nipple, close up the box and you're done.
7) The male connectors which insert into the wire taps can be hard to seat fully in place. If they are not seated fully, they will fall off. I used a channel-lock type pliar to "help" the stubborn ones on. Also, as you insert the connector into the tap look through the plastic from the side to make sure the spade goes into the slot for it; the slot is narrow and if you miss, you can push the connector on, but not have the spade in the right place (don't ask me how I know this!)
Last edited by HiFlite999; 07-22-2010 at 07:45 PM.
Bday present to myself 
07-24-2010, 08:45 AM
#165
Administrator
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instructions?! Who the hell needs instructions???
c'mon Zoom, just start drinking and the rest will figure itself out once you start splicing wires.
c'mon Zoom, just start drinking and the rest will figure itself out once you start splicing wires.
07-25-2010, 02:40 PM
#166
A note on accuracy with the AUX inputs
I've tried 3 sets of gauges so far: ebay special with needle display, Summit digital, and Glowshift digital. All presented problems, but the common thread related to grounding. I checked the calibration of the temperature sensor/gauges setup by heating water with the sender dipped into it and following the readings from the gauge and a seperate thermometer. I checked the oil pressure sensor/gauges by making up a Tee with the sender, an air compressor line, and an independant gauge. I won't go into all the details but the common lesson is that single-wire sensors are crap and a seperate ground wire must be run back to the gauge ground. If you have only the single signal wire run back the the gauge, maybe you'll get away with it for the temperature sensor, but you will not get an accurate reading from the pressure sensor. Connect a good multimeter (Fluke) to the engine block and to the cigar lighter ground. You will measure a slightly different resistance depending on whether the ignition is on or off and when the car is running. (Negative resisitance even!). You can also measure a small voltage between the two points. This is called a "ground loop" and it will screw up your gauge readings. The Glowshift gauges come with 2-wire sensors and that's a big plus. Run both the ground and signal wires from the sensor back to the gauge. The pic shows my "ground plane" which ties the grounds from the cigar lighter ground wire, the sensor grounds, the gauge grounds, and to the point of posting it here, the Goodbox ground together.
Last edited by HiFlite999; 07-25-2010 at 02:55 PM.
07-25-2010, 03:56 PM
#167
Input to Goodbox AUX from an intalled gauge
Conditionals:
You have a gauge already installed.
That gauge does not have seperate 0-5v (datalogger) outputs.
Then:
1) Splice into the signal wire between the gauge and the sensor.
2) Turn on the ignition (but don't start).
3) Set the goodbox to display the AUX Rawdata on the display unit using the AUX setup menu.
4) Turn ignition to "off".
5) Connect the signal wire to a Goodbox AUX input.
6) Turn ignition "on" and check the RawData value. If it's > 1000 or so, the signal voltage is over +5v. If it's reading exactly 0, it's the wrong polarity. Both cases mean the Goodbox won't work with this gauge without additional measures.
7) Next is recording the RawData reading at different gauge readings. For temperature, start the car and write down the RawData reading vs gauge reading as the car warms up. The larger the range you can sample, the better the resulting calibration will be. (My starting oil temperature was 80 deg, and I was able to get to temp of 190F just idling with the A/C on.)
8) Ignition 'off', and whip out your slide rule.
I show the process of getting the numbers required into the Goodbox in the two attachments. As a side-note, you can deduce from the data, that I haven't yet gotten proper grounding for my oil temp sensor. At the upper range of the temps, the RawData readings got noisy as the AC compressor and fans started turning on and off.
Easy right?
You have a gauge already installed.
That gauge does not have seperate 0-5v (datalogger) outputs.
Then:
1) Splice into the signal wire between the gauge and the sensor.
2) Turn on the ignition (but don't start).
3) Set the goodbox to display the AUX Rawdata on the display unit using the AUX setup menu.
4) Turn ignition to "off".
5) Connect the signal wire to a Goodbox AUX input.
6) Turn ignition "on" and check the RawData value. If it's > 1000 or so, the signal voltage is over +5v. If it's reading exactly 0, it's the wrong polarity. Both cases mean the Goodbox won't work with this gauge without additional measures.
7) Next is recording the RawData reading at different gauge readings. For temperature, start the car and write down the RawData reading vs gauge reading as the car warms up. The larger the range you can sample, the better the resulting calibration will be. (My starting oil temperature was 80 deg, and I was able to get to temp of 190F just idling with the A/C on.)
8) Ignition 'off', and whip out your slide rule.
I show the process of getting the numbers required into the Goodbox in the two attachments. As a side-note, you can deduce from the data, that I haven't yet gotten proper grounding for my oil temp sensor. At the upper range of the temps, the RawData readings got noisy as the AC compressor and fans started turning on and off.
Easy right?
07-25-2010, 09:46 PM
#169
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question. I am installing mine now, and I got everything in but the cig lighter wires. I have the red and black left and the cig lighter connector has a yellowish wire and a red/black wire. Just to be sure, I'm assuming the red goes to the yellowish wire? and the black wire goes to the red/black?? I want to make sure before I do anything else.
07-25-2010, 09:52 PM
#170
question. I am installing mine now, and I got everything in but the cig lighter wires. I have the red and black left and the cig lighter connector has a yellowish wire and a red/black wire. Just to be sure, I'm assuming the red goes to the yellowish wire? and the black wire goes to the red/black?? I want to make sure before I do anything else.
07-25-2010, 11:07 PM
#172
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all done, and looks great! I like the custom text. I got Display A dual with air fuel and commanded air fuel, display b as intake temp and coolant temp, and display C as calculated load and absolute load. Very nice man!
07-26-2010, 08:33 AM
#173
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I'm planning on ordering in the next couple of days, but I just have a few questions first.
1. I dont have TPMS on my 8, so I'm assuming that the CAN wires won't be present behind the LCD. Is this correct? (I have stock nav if this makes any difference).
2. Can you explain the differences in installation if you don't have the TPMS module.
3. Would I need to connect directly to the back of the OBD II port, and could this present any problems if I plug something else into the OBD II.
Thanks
1. I dont have TPMS on my 8, so I'm assuming that the CAN wires won't be present behind the LCD. Is this correct? (I have stock nav if this makes any difference).
2. Can you explain the differences in installation if you don't have the TPMS module.
3. Would I need to connect directly to the back of the OBD II port, and could this present any problems if I plug something else into the OBD II.
Thanks
07-26-2010, 10:56 AM
#174
I'm planning on ordering in the next couple of days, but I just have a few questions first.
1. I dont have TPMS on my 8, so I'm assuming that the CAN wires won't be present behind the LCD. Is this correct? (I have stock nav if this makes any difference).
2. Can you explain the differences in installation if you don't have the TPMS module.
3. Would I need to connect directly to the back of the OBD II port, and could this present any problems if I plug something else into the OBD II.
Thanks
1. I dont have TPMS on my 8, so I'm assuming that the CAN wires won't be present behind the LCD. Is this correct? (I have stock nav if this makes any difference).
2. Can you explain the differences in installation if you don't have the TPMS module.
3. Would I need to connect directly to the back of the OBD II port, and could this present any problems if I plug something else into the OBD II.
Thanks
07-28-2010, 12:47 AM
#175
Couple hints!
1) Do as HiFlite999 says and check the spade connectors when inserting them. Check through the plastic on both sides to make sure it goes "in". I had to check all my wiring twice as I missed one.
2) Unclip the OBD2 connector and let it hang. much easier to splice the wires on that way.
*I'll post pics of this step if someone wants*
3) If you are hooking up the goodbox as per the instructions and are placing the unit in the ashtray area. I didn't drill any holes. I just unscrewed the metal tab that holds (snaps) in the ashtray and there is more the enough room to run the wiring harness up there. I haven't put a vacuum line through, but may at a later date.
Pieter3d:
Got the goodbox today in good shape. Thanks for shipping as we had discussed.
Good product!
Last edited by MyRxBad; 07-28-2010 at 12:50 AM.