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Is that a bike rack?
iTrader: (1)
The only thing that concerns me about the clutch noises is that it was sudden. Over the course of two days it developed. The wheel noise is mostly just an annoyance. I don't feel any difference in handling or breaking. When I had my engine replaced 22k ago the motor mount was replaced then as well. Once I get everything moved in to the new place I will have a bit more time to actually get it up in the air to poke my head around. I will let y'all know when that is.
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iTrader: (46)
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The only thing that concerns me about the clutch noises is that it was sudden. Over the course of two days it developed. The wheel noise is mostly just an annoyance. I don't feel any difference in handling or breaking. When I had my engine replaced 22k ago the motor mount was replaced then as well. Once I get everything moved in to the new place I will have a bit more time to actually get it up in the air to poke my head around. I will let y'all know when that is.
Issue 3:
This one I'm really not too sure about. For about 6 months I have been having a loud metallic rattle when I go over bumps coming from the right wheel well. When I jack the car up and try to find any loose nuts/bolts I come up empty handed. I have tried replicating the impact with a rubber mallet on the lower shock bolt and I can hear what seems like the hub rattling. However, within the last week when I go over a quick bump at 30+ mph the right wheel produces a metal scraping noise for several seconds. It sounds like a screw driver tip being held to a spinning brake rotor or something. That's the closest approximation I can come up with. If I apply the brakes the noise does not stop until I get below a certain speed. I THINK there is a difference in the pitch of the noise when I alter speeds, but it is minimal. Does this sound like a new wheel hub is needed? Bearing is shot? It's not a loud grinding noise like I have experienced before with a bad wheel hub bearing.
Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks. I'm sad I missed the Christmas party, but it took us WAYYY too long to find a rental truck in Kerrville.
This one I'm really not too sure about. For about 6 months I have been having a loud metallic rattle when I go over bumps coming from the right wheel well. When I jack the car up and try to find any loose nuts/bolts I come up empty handed. I have tried replicating the impact with a rubber mallet on the lower shock bolt and I can hear what seems like the hub rattling. However, within the last week when I go over a quick bump at 30+ mph the right wheel produces a metal scraping noise for several seconds. It sounds like a screw driver tip being held to a spinning brake rotor or something. That's the closest approximation I can come up with. If I apply the brakes the noise does not stop until I get below a certain speed. I THINK there is a difference in the pitch of the noise when I alter speeds, but it is minimal. Does this sound like a new wheel hub is needed? Bearing is shot? It's not a loud grinding noise like I have experienced before with a bad wheel hub bearing.
Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks. I'm sad I missed the Christmas party, but it took us WAYYY too long to find a rental truck in Kerrville.
check your bushings in your control arm. check the ball joint as well. check the dust cover on the tie rod, if torn and dust has found its way in there... it can create havoc. If these all look normal. Jack up the car, and "wiggle" the wheel up and down at first, shouldn't feel any popping action, should be fluid. if popping, bad ball joint. next "wiggle" the wheel side to side, same as before should be fluid, any popping bad tie rod. Next... free spin the wheel and listen for the noise. Finally, with the car on a jack stand, take the jack and place it under the lower control arm and jack it up, like you would to preload the shocks.... check the bushings on the control arms, if one is torn that could be your issue.....
hope this helps
Is that a bike rack?
iTrader: (1)
I have just over 121,xxx miles. When I got the engine replaced I just didn't consider replacing the clutch since it seemed fine.
I will definitely look to see if there is movement in the wheels when not loaded.
Side note...after 5 years i finally got some curb rash :/ n00b
I will definitely look to see if there is movement in the wheels when not loaded.
Side note...after 5 years i finally got some curb rash :/ n00b
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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whats up everybody!! what you gunna do this weekend i have to work tomorrow but i wondering know if any of you can borrow me a cat (no the black and white cat who always pee my car) hahaha the cat from the car lol to get the sticker
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pfff i give up... the guy who sell the burnout kit never pm me back.... if he didnt answer me by chrismas im going to order the coilovers... fu&$ it.. so its all yours austin =) corse if he respond lol
If it spins it wins
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hey it was cool hanging out with houstonrx8er and shadycrew last night.... sucks that i drove out there and then realised i didnt have my side seal's with me
, aside from that was fun
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what was I thinking
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No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
exposed grease + wheel well = sand & grit collector, doesn't go to well with a bearing surface
the only notable torsion force is about the spring wire diameter, not the spring seat diameter. The one exception would be a McPherson type strut that turns with the steering.
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
All good points, which is probably why Mazda uses the clear plastic gasket things. As for the torsion release bearings, are they good for anything?
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