Cobb AccessPORT Discussion
#351
FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
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Jeff, what flash version are you using as the base for your maps? This looked interesting.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-08-1924.pdf
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-08-1924.pdf
#353
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Jeff, what flash version are you using as the base for your maps? This looked interesting.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-08-1924.pdf
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-08-1924.pdf
#354
1. Increased OMP output
2. Lowered temp required for radiator fans to enable
3. Tuned fuel and ignition allowing for more power
4. Removal of "too rich", and "cat missing" CELs, plus whatever other CELs you do not need to see.
5. AP itself lets you read CEL codes, calculate 0-60 times, quarter mile times. And monitor odb2 signals like intake temp, coolant temp, etc.
6. Ability to raise or lower redline.
There are likely many others, this is just off the top of my head.
2. Lowered temp required for radiator fans to enable
3. Tuned fuel and ignition allowing for more power
4. Removal of "too rich", and "cat missing" CELs, plus whatever other CELs you do not need to see.
5. AP itself lets you read CEL codes, calculate 0-60 times, quarter mile times. And monitor odb2 signals like intake temp, coolant temp, etc.
6. Ability to raise or lower redline.
There are likely many others, this is just off the top of my head.
#358
Or 12:30pm!
Thanks for your patience, ladies and gentlemen.
That had to be the single longest weekend of my adult life. (Only good things happened, but it was about 70 hours of non-stop rotary madness.)
I'll dedicate a whole thread to it later.
Its going to take me a while to sift through all the activity on this thread, so if I miss a question, please forgive me and re-ask it.
The newest flash is "U" or "V", depending on your climate. I use "U" as the basis for the AP calibrations, but all of the oiling and cooling effects I use in my calibrations are even more radical than those done by Mazda, so you will get all of the oiling protection the motor needs.
TSB 01-014/08 is interesting. It adds the SeaFoam treatment to the previous "lack of power, get a new engine" TSB.
I LOL'ed.
The ODB dongle that ships with the AP does seem to be sensitive to "wiggle".
I never had mine not connect or flash, but I have had it drop the logging connection while driving.
My pins are wobbly, but so are the ones in my CANScan and my SCANalyzer.
I don't know what that means exactly, but I'll bring it up with Cobb.
For now, other than taking your new hardware apart (which I don't particularly suggest, but its yours, so knock yourselves out), just be certain that it is fully seated and give it a good "wiggle-shove" when inserting it.
[[that'll get quoted for sure]]
Thanks for your patience, ladies and gentlemen.
That had to be the single longest weekend of my adult life. (Only good things happened, but it was about 70 hours of non-stop rotary madness.)
I'll dedicate a whole thread to it later.
Its going to take me a while to sift through all the activity on this thread, so if I miss a question, please forgive me and re-ask it.
The newest flash is "U" or "V", depending on your climate. I use "U" as the basis for the AP calibrations, but all of the oiling and cooling effects I use in my calibrations are even more radical than those done by Mazda, so you will get all of the oiling protection the motor needs.
TSB 01-014/08 is interesting. It adds the SeaFoam treatment to the previous "lack of power, get a new engine" TSB.
I LOL'ed.
The ODB dongle that ships with the AP does seem to be sensitive to "wiggle".
I never had mine not connect or flash, but I have had it drop the logging connection while driving.
My pins are wobbly, but so are the ones in my CANScan and my SCANalyzer.
I don't know what that means exactly, but I'll bring it up with Cobb.
For now, other than taking your new hardware apart (which I don't particularly suggest, but its yours, so knock yourselves out), just be certain that it is fully seated and give it a good "wiggle-shove" when inserting it.
[[that'll get quoted for sure]]
#361
You need to email him with your car specs.
Your car model, year, injector sizes, application (NA, FI, SC) and your MAF size. Stock maf housing ID is 3 3/8".
e.g; for me:
Car: 2004 GT, RX-8
Injectors: 380/380/730 (If you're stock, just say "stock")
MAF size: 3 3/8"
Application: Turbo
Your car model, year, injector sizes, application (NA, FI, SC) and your MAF size. Stock maf housing ID is 3 3/8".
e.g; for me:
Car: 2004 GT, RX-8
Injectors: 380/380/730 (If you're stock, just say "stock")
MAF size: 3 3/8"
Application: Turbo
#362
I will forever miss my 8!
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I don’t know if this has been answered before (sorry if it has)
I am turbo now venting my BOV to atmosphere (map based) however with the AP, I will have to recirculate my BOV no question asked because it is MAF based.
I am turbo now venting my BOV to atmosphere (map based) however with the AP, I will have to recirculate my BOV no question asked because it is MAF based.
#365
Everyone that receives your AP -
I am a little disorganized at the moment, so just shoot me an e-mail as SQL says and I will send you your application-specific calibrations on the spot.
Thanks.
You don't have to, but it is better to do so.
Mine is open to atmo and it works great, but it is preferable to recirculate it for mapping accuracy and to eliminate exhaust backfires.
I am a little disorganized at the moment, so just shoot me an e-mail as SQL says and I will send you your application-specific calibrations on the spot.
Thanks.
Mine is open to atmo and it works great, but it is preferable to recirculate it for mapping accuracy and to eliminate exhaust backfires.
#366
If you have the synchronic bov, you will need to recirculate. It reacts to any little throttle lift by opening up (even with the anti stall fitting) and causes drivability issues. Other BOVs need quite a bit more PSI to activate and aren't going to be opening up at -12 psi reading on your boost gauge, so they aren't going to cause the issues I currently have.
BTW, I have a recirculate bung on my intake tube that is 3/4" to match the greddy type-S bov's recirculate fitting from a year back... the synchronic bov has a 1 1/4" recirculate fitting. In the slim chance that anyone here has the same setup get this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=2781
BTW, I have a recirculate bung on my intake tube that is 3/4" to match the greddy type-S bov's recirculate fitting from a year back... the synchronic bov has a 1 1/4" recirculate fitting. In the slim chance that anyone here has the same setup get this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=2781
#368
Finally Boosted!!!!!!!
BTW, I have a recirculate bung on my intake tube that is 3/4" to match the greddy type-S bov's recirculate fitting from a year back... the synchronic bov has a 1 1/4" recirculate fitting. In the slim chance that anyone here has the same setup get this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=2781
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=2806
#369
I will forever miss my 8!
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I actually have your old BOV turbo XS which I love! It would be hard to let go of the sweet phuff sound!
But thank you all for the advice…
Decision… Decision… Decision…
But thank you all for the advice…
Decision… Decision… Decision…
If you have the synchronic bov, you will need to recirculate. It reacts to any little throttle lift by opening up (even with the anti stall fitting) and causes drivability issues. Other BOVs need quite a bit more PSI to activate and aren't going to be opening up at -12 psi reading on your boost gauge, so they aren't going to cause the issues I currently have.
BTW, I have a recirculate bung on my intake tube that is 3/4" to match the greddy type-S bov's recirculate fitting from a year back... the synchronic bov has a 1 1/4" recirculate fitting. In the slim chance that anyone here has the same setup get this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=2781
BTW, I have a recirculate bung on my intake tube that is 3/4" to match the greddy type-S bov's recirculate fitting from a year back... the synchronic bov has a 1 1/4" recirculate fitting. In the slim chance that anyone here has the same setup get this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=2781
#370
You need to email him with your car specs.
Your car model, year, injector sizes, application (NA, FI, SC) and your MAF size. Stock maf housing ID is 3 3/8".
e.g; for me:
Car: 2004 GT, RX-8
Injectors: 380/380/730 (If you're stock, just say "stock")
MAF size: 3 3/8"
Application: Turbo
Your car model, year, injector sizes, application (NA, FI, SC) and your MAF size. Stock maf housing ID is 3 3/8".
e.g; for me:
Car: 2004 GT, RX-8
Injectors: 380/380/730 (If you're stock, just say "stock")
MAF size: 3 3/8"
Application: Turbo
I got a NEWB question. My car is this:
Car: 2004 GT, RX-8
Injectors: Stock until I get the new injectors from jeff
MAF size: I don't know where to measure this, but I have the stock greddy kit on
Application: Turbo
is this alright? If so, I"m waiting for email! Thanks!!
#371
If you use the stock greddy kit tell jeff you need the 3.5" maf housing map.
Also, I can finally report something worthwhile. This afternoon Jeff mailed me the 3.5" greddy maf maps ....
I pulled the old maf housing, and reinstalled the greddy maf housing. Guess what? I can now accelerate AND...
I can now boost.
AFR's were upper 10's to low 11's in the two minutes I tested it. The car is drivable BUT it is not perfectly smooth. I'm willing to bet $100 that the greddy maf housing reduces, then enlarges around the maf sensor, then reduces again, in order to straighten out the air around the maf. But this doesn't make the air perfectly smooth and so the car runs good enough, but it's not the perfect smoothness that I would like. I also assume that once the airflow is smooth, the AFR's under boost will become rock solid and not bounce around much.
Thus I'm still anxiously awaiting the custom CAI that has ~4" of piping on either side of the maf to have smooth airflow. Meanwhile, the car is once again drivable! wooooot.
I can make a video if anyone is interested in seeing. I didn't bother since there's nothing "new" for me to show besides a car driving around.
Also, I can finally report something worthwhile. This afternoon Jeff mailed me the 3.5" greddy maf maps ....
I pulled the old maf housing, and reinstalled the greddy maf housing. Guess what? I can now accelerate AND...
I can now boost.
AFR's were upper 10's to low 11's in the two minutes I tested it. The car is drivable BUT it is not perfectly smooth. I'm willing to bet $100 that the greddy maf housing reduces, then enlarges around the maf sensor, then reduces again, in order to straighten out the air around the maf. But this doesn't make the air perfectly smooth and so the car runs good enough, but it's not the perfect smoothness that I would like. I also assume that once the airflow is smooth, the AFR's under boost will become rock solid and not bounce around much.
Thus I'm still anxiously awaiting the custom CAI that has ~4" of piping on either side of the maf to have smooth airflow. Meanwhile, the car is once again drivable! wooooot.
I can make a video if anyone is interested in seeing. I didn't bother since there's nothing "new" for me to show besides a car driving around.
#372
Bigus Rotus
iTrader: (3)
On a separate note, I just got one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16834220246
F-ing badd-***!
It is PERFECT for mobile tuning.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16834220246
F-ing badd-***!
It is PERFECT for mobile tuning.
Plus, there are others at 2GB, & 8GB
http://www.ritzcamera.com/product/EP28852977.htm
#375
I will forever miss my 8!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Kentucky / Cincinnati
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