Cobb AccessPORT Discussion
03-18-2008, 05:52 PM
#451
Ok, I took out the PCM and removed the Greddy harness and it's just hangin there now, and I plugged in all the original five plugs into the PCM. I flashed it to 3.0 base flash and the lights came on, the car with the squiggly tire lines on the top of the tach was on, and the dsc off light was blinking.
Second, look in your owner's manual and you will see that whenever power is interrupted to the PCM, it resets the TCS/DSC/EPS and you have to perform a steering calibration before you start the car.
Turn the key to "ON" (but not running) and turn the steering wheel left then right to calibrate the EPS. Then turn the key of and then back on again and start the car.
I double checked everything I did and did it all gently and don't think I pulled on any wires hard. after messin around with the flashes as the instructions say to get to a good stft, the dsc light eventually went off and so did the squggly tire light. one time the dsc off light would not come on even when i pushed the button, but now everything seems back to normal
So i'm not sure what to do now, except wonder are these calibrations off for my car in particular?
and one more thing, it will not go into boost so i'm very careful when driving now. when i accel, i do it very gently, if i don't, past 3 to 4000 rpm it bogs like crazy. what am i doing wrong?
and one more thing, it will not go into boost so i'm very careful when driving now. when i accel, i do it very gently, if i don't, past 3 to 4000 rpm it bogs like crazy. what am i doing wrong?
Load the v3_5b flash and drive it lightly, turn the car off and go do something else. In a few hours, do it again and report the actual STFT value.
03-18-2008, 06:19 PM
#452
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Man, is this thing (the AP) finicky. I can equate it to the good advice dispensed to many a post-stroke patient - the body takes time to heal itself. Except this is a car computer we're talking about... aren't we.
And no, I don't "play" a doctor on TV...
And no, I don't "play" a doctor on TV...
03-18-2008, 06:38 PM
#454
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I know - please forgive my frustration - I don't even own one. The only person I know who doesn't seem to have a problem with it is MM, though I admit there may be others who simply haven't had issues and therefore not posted. Not bashing the product in any way, but it seems many forum members are (or were) looking for a simple plug-and-play device. The only thing I have to compare (if you cn even call it that) is the Int-X - where there was no learning curve, pings, bogs, etc.
I know, I know, apples and oranges.
I know, I know, apples and oranges.
03-18-2008, 06:41 PM
#455
Having fun so far, and I have to admit also, that the first map for NA is working wonderfully. My idle STFT is staying close to 0 with it. Small drives around the block swing a little from -4 to 4, but then settle back out to 0 when I come to a stop. That is only one drive cycle with no real load on the car. I'm taking it easy for a couple of days. I like the idle already - thanks Jeff.
03-18-2008, 06:41 PM
#456
eh. the int-x isn't perfect. Right now even without the proper intake installed, I would prefer the AP over it though.
I don't see any true issues with the AP being presented here. All I've seen are people who are impatient and are jumping to conclusions or have less than desirable intake setups.
03-18-2008, 06:45 PM
#457
Let me put it another way --
I have a very nice quick spooling 400+ hp capable turbo, I have a non standard sized MAF housing with a self admitted crappy intake setup. I also have a non standard fuel injection setup, and aftermarket ignition/coil setup.
Even with all these variations in my car, Jeff has developed a map that makes my car run normally, and can boost with safe AFRs. If it can work on my car, why wouldn't it work on a stock rx-8 with a CAI and exhaust? Remember, when my car isn't in boost, it's just like a NA car.
I have a very nice quick spooling 400+ hp capable turbo, I have a non standard sized MAF housing with a self admitted crappy intake setup. I also have a non standard fuel injection setup, and aftermarket ignition/coil setup.
Even with all these variations in my car, Jeff has developed a map that makes my car run normally, and can boost with safe AFRs. If it can work on my car, why wouldn't it work on a stock rx-8 with a CAI and exhaust? Remember, when my car isn't in boost, it's just like a NA car.
03-18-2008, 06:52 PM
#458
The Int-X is plug and play and has no issues or learning curve?
This thing just hit the doorstep today. Give everyone a week or two to figure out what they are doing.
You are not going to make a pro tuner out of every owner in one afternoon.
This thing just hit the doorstep today. Give everyone a week or two to figure out what they are doing.
You are not going to make a pro tuner out of every owner in one afternoon.
03-18-2008, 06:57 PM
#459
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eh. the int-x isn't perfect. Right now even without the proper intake installed, I would prefer the AP over it though.
I don't see any true issues with the AP being presented here. All I've seen are people who are impatient and are jumping to conclusions or have less than desirable intake setups.
I don't see any true issues with the AP being presented here. All I've seen are people who are impatient and are jumping to conclusions or have less than desirable intake setups.
I concede that your assessment (and MM's) of folks being impatient is most likely spot on. Though, I surmise that many, many folks may not be running with the desirable intake setup.
The good thing out of all this is that there will be many people who have not read the instructions, followed directions or just plain messed up in general! What a better way to learn? Outside of the medical field, of course!
03-18-2008, 07:09 PM
#462
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just for ***** and giggles i installed the AP Manager software on Ubuntu using Wine... i think it works so far, just have to see if it will work with the AP when it gets here tomorrow!
Jeff, sent you an e-mail...
Jeff, sent you an e-mail...
03-18-2008, 07:11 PM
#464
Drive it like u stole it!
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Intakes on the '8 do nothing but lose peak power.
They "gain" power in ranges that have less than peak to begin with, that is how they can claim things like 15 HP.
There has never been a more perfectly engineered intake than the one on the RX-8.
That said, the way intakes on most cars work is by intentionally screwing with the MAF.
The AP uses the MAF to gain more precise control over the fuel and spark.
Garbage in - garbage out. If the MAF signal is FUBARed by your intake, you can't possibly expect the AP to make it right.
Now, if you had access to a pro tuner, they could read your fuel trims and produce a calibration that corrected much of the bad MAF output, but it would be easier (and produce more power) if you just put the stock intake back on.
It does nothing by make noise and change your peak torque point.
They "gain" power in ranges that have less than peak to begin with, that is how they can claim things like 15 HP.
There has never been a more perfectly engineered intake than the one on the RX-8.
That said, the way intakes on most cars work is by intentionally screwing with the MAF.
The AP uses the MAF to gain more precise control over the fuel and spark.
Garbage in - garbage out. If the MAF signal is FUBARed by your intake, you can't possibly expect the AP to make it right.
Now, if you had access to a pro tuner, they could read your fuel trims and produce a calibration that corrected much of the bad MAF output, but it would be easier (and produce more power) if you just put the stock intake back on.
It does nothing by make noise and change your peak torque point.
03-18-2008, 07:14 PM
#465
Use everything it came with.
Once you get the hang of how to select the proper maps (and make requests for adjustments), you can experiment with aftermarket intakes if it makes you happy.
03-18-2008, 07:17 PM
#466
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first, you should always disconnect the battery when doing stuff like that.
Second, look in your owner's manual and you will see that whenever power is interrupted to the PCM, it resets the TCS/DSC/EPS and you have to perform a steering calibration before you start the car.
Turn the key to "ON" (but not running) and turn the steering wheel left then right to calibrate the EPS. Then turn the key of and then back on again and start the car.
You shouldn't be "messing" with anything. Flash the "3.0" file and start the car and let it warm up. Then take it for a short drive and park it and look at the STFT. If it is a negative number, use the "b" file that most closely matches the amount it is negative (3_1b for 2%, 3_2b for 4%, etc.). Reflash the car and do it all over again.
You haven't let it do its thing yet. You need potentially days, not minutes. At least more than one complete warm-up.
Load the v3_5b flash and drive it lightly, turn the car off and go do something else. In a few hours, do it again and report the actual STFT value.
Second, look in your owner's manual and you will see that whenever power is interrupted to the PCM, it resets the TCS/DSC/EPS and you have to perform a steering calibration before you start the car.
Turn the key to "ON" (but not running) and turn the steering wheel left then right to calibrate the EPS. Then turn the key of and then back on again and start the car.
You shouldn't be "messing" with anything. Flash the "3.0" file and start the car and let it warm up. Then take it for a short drive and park it and look at the STFT. If it is a negative number, use the "b" file that most closely matches the amount it is negative (3_1b for 2%, 3_2b for 4%, etc.). Reflash the car and do it all over again.
You haven't let it do its thing yet. You need potentially days, not minutes. At least more than one complete warm-up.
Load the v3_5b flash and drive it lightly, turn the car off and go do something else. In a few hours, do it again and report the actual STFT value.
03-18-2008, 07:18 PM
#467
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just out of curiousity, what seems to be the best turbo intake? The Mazsport looks like it would be the best just because it has a lot of straight tubing before and after the MAF.
03-18-2008, 07:37 PM
#468
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So to recap if you have the greddy turbo, you need to do the fallowing so the AP works for you
1)I need to change my intake pipe
2)I need to change my maf tubing
3)It is highly recommended to recirculate the BOV to avoid stalling, backfiring, bogging, etc
Am I missing something here?
1)I need to change my intake pipe
2)I need to change my maf tubing
3)It is highly recommended to recirculate the BOV to avoid stalling, backfiring, bogging, etc
Am I missing something here?
Last edited by RX4+4=8; 03-18-2008 at 07:42 PM.
03-18-2008, 08:04 PM
#469
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From what knowledge I have acquired, that sounds about right. Make sure you dont just change it though, you have to upgrade it. Something that would provide the smoothest consistent flow possible. Also, when you recirculate the BOV the recirc inlet should be behind the MAF.
03-18-2008, 08:15 PM
#470
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Maybe I shouldn't even install my BOV yet. If I do, I might end up upgrading then I paid for the welding for nothin. I'll wait to see what the ideal setup is then do it all at once. And one question I saw asked earlier that I don't think there's been an answer to yet is whether or not we reset the ECM after changing the tune.
03-18-2008, 08:36 PM
#472
The best you can do, short of the OE intake, is a 3 3/8" i.d. MAF housing with at least 3" on either side of the MAF and a screen on the up-stream side.
6" on either side is better.
The K&N v1 intake pipe is actually pretty good for the GReddy kit, becuse it has a slight bend that lines up with the GReddy inlet pipe where the GReddy MAF housing would be located.
6" on either side is better.
The K&N v1 intake pipe is actually pretty good for the GReddy kit, becuse it has a slight bend that lines up with the GReddy inlet pipe where the GReddy MAF housing would be located.
03-18-2008, 09:50 PM
#473
The best you can do, short of the OE intake, is a 3 3/8" i.d. MAF housing with at least 3" on either side of the MAF and a screen on the up-stream side.
6" on either side is better.
The K&N v1 intake pipe is actually pretty good for the GReddy kit, becuse it has a slight bend that lines up with the GReddy inlet pipe where the GReddy MAF housing would be located.
6" on either side is better.
The K&N v1 intake pipe is actually pretty good for the GReddy kit, becuse it has a slight bend that lines up with the GReddy inlet pipe where the GReddy MAF housing would be located.
03-18-2008, 10:14 PM
#474
Ok, while I love the stock AP map at 12.9 to 13.1
I upped to the MM map.
No more bog. Seems to like 12.5 at full load vs 16.5-16.9
Now one question?
For CAT life I assume we stay with the stage one series, correct?
or Will stage two be fine?
I upped to the MM map.
No more bog. Seems to like 12.5 at full load vs 16.5-16.9
Now one question?
For CAT life I assume we stay with the stage one series, correct?
or Will stage two be fine?
