chancejat

iTrader: (2)

alright.....stock intake back on now....went back to MM original 0 map....stft stablized quickly.....took her on a test drive started slow....stft was pretty stable throughout....a/f is now less jumpy but still is high most of the time....it does dip down around 6200-6700 rpm at WOT....i made a quick video of a 2nd gear WOT run....so this is where im at...a/f is still high most of the time...

mysql

chance, what stage maps are you using?

chancejat

iTrader: (2)

stage 1....i shouldnt move to 2 or 3 until i get my a/f in the correct range, right???

chancejat

iTrader: (2)

oh yeah...id did a test on intake temp with the stock intake and its actually running hotter than my typhoon was.....just fyi

mysql

I'd wait and see what Jeff says. Going to a higher stage map will just result with leaner AFRs. 14 seems a bit lean.

At any rate, how did it feel with the flash now that you have the stock box on?

Re: intake temp, that's very dependent on driving conditions. Unless you can replicate it exactly, reaching a specific temp isn't going to tell you much. Especially since the radiator fans aren't always on and blowing hot air into the bay.

chancejat

iTrader: (2)

it feels the same....made my turboxs exhaust a little more quiet....im still surprised about the intake temps being in the 110-120 range with the stock box....

Razz1

In the previous post I mentioned top end high RPM load too lean.

Ja the first map was great most times it began to run 12.9 to 13.1

I had to fix the full throttle problem. New map seems to work.

Shoot me a PM with your phone #

I may be going up that way this Sat. /Sunday.

Razz1

Mine has been running 9 gdegrees hotter than ambient when its warm out otherwise it is less.

We will have to check when it is 80 plus.

chancejat

iTrader: (2)

its 72 down here at 10pm....my typhoon was running about 85-90.....stock over 100

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I typically see about 20°F over ambient in my all-metal intake.
The only problem with the OE box is that it sits over the rad flow.

chancejat

iTrader: (2)

hey jeff did you see my vid......one page back at the bottom...

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I can't tell anything about it other than your A/Fs.
What else is it doing?
Which flash are you on?
What is your load at WOT?
Where are your LTFT and STFT?

Same questions.

eviltwinkie

Just got it installed...going to flash MM's maps on...just need a free sec...

The plug sucks...I keep getting ECU communication errors...after reseating the plug and restarting...I can usually get it to work...bah...I'll look at it in the morning..

Grouch

Jeff, please let me know if you'd rather me email you these updates. I'm just posting because I thought it'd save you trouble because you might not have to repeat simple instructions to other FI owners (I don't see too many AP/FI combos here yet, they must be just receiving theirs).

Update: I'm not sure if I should have reported earlier or later. At the end the 5th complete drive cycle (completely cold to completely warm with several hours break in betw cycles) in about a day and a half, from the flash 3.5b, I got a check engine light PO456 evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak). I have no idea if this has anything to do with ap or just a crappy install or something else.

I dumped 2/3 of a tank of gas in about 100km which is pretty outrageous

idle afr 14.7

4000 rpm under medium-light load up slight incline 11.1

long term ft -23%

short term is still all over the place but kinda seems like it averages to 0 but i could be WAY off. i tried blipping the throttle and waiting a long time for it to stabilize but it's all over the place. seems to be mostly negative during driving. still backfiring

i think it's getting a little smoother but i still can't go into boost smoothly or barely at all. there seems to be an extreme lack of power under load. i'm not trying to drive hard on purpose but when i go home, i need to drive up a very long and steep road that is probably over a mile long. under this load, the car seems to barely make it up, i have hyundai pony's passin me like i'm standin still, lol. i just proceed under very light throttle, because any more than that and the engine bogs like crazy and it doesn't seem very happy

i'm not sure if i need a 3.46b -23% range of maps or not, but who knows. please shoot me an email if i do and i'll report back with new results. thanks in advance... and please let me know if you want me to report anything else specificallly. I know you asked for specific readings from others, but maybe it'd be good to make an exact point list for FI and/or NA owners on what exactly to report under what conditions. I'm just going by what you asked me specifically about the stft after warm up. thanks!

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I've put that complaint in for review.
It seems everyone has an issue with the dongle.

Putting them here is useful because others might experience the same issues.

What is your MAF situation? I don't remember the specifics of your intake. Is it the stock GReddy stuff?
The P0456 is weird. Its usually the gas cap, but that is one of the DTCs that should be masked.
If you uninstall the AP and drive the car around the block (NOT IN BOOST), are the STFT/LTFT still strange?

It sounds to me like there is something "open" in your setup, like a hose off somewhere or a BOV.

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

To make heads or tails out of this you need to explain the load and rpms.

Stock you can be WOT and the afr will be around 14.7 until sometimes 5k rpms before it drops out of the traditional closed loop control. After that you should be seeing 13's or high 12's depending on your flash level (assuming NA cars). That would be completely normal and the transition point of where the afr drops off will vary slightly wil the engine load.

Now if your seeing 14's above 6k rpms at >80% load, that would be downright scary.


I should have my AP tonight. Tomorrow i'll find the appropriate set of flashes and have some data logged on Friday. I plan on experimenting with Jeff's stage 1 maps first and then try out Cobb's stage 1. I'll run some data by Jeff and then post up some graphs to see if people can understand better what they should be seeing.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

^^ Thanks for the help!
The more data, the better the tunes will get.

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

^ Yep, I'm logging data with my scanalyser and will post up some data for you also Jeff. Have not had any real hiccups yet. I'm still on the starter flash since my STFT seems to be 0 to -2. When I log, do you want these parameters:

Relative Throttle Position
RPM
STFT
LTFT
Load
AFR

How about some timing?

jackhain

Just received my AP. I haven't had a chance to install it yet. Is there a firmware update available? Mine shipped with v1.2.5.4-5261.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Sounds good.
Timing isn't important to me on the v1_0 flash - I didn't change much there.
The v2_0 has minor timing adjustments.
The v3_0 has some aggressive timing split changes.
The OE timing map is already very aggressive.

The FI calibrations are a whole different story.



That is the most current, AFAIK.

eviltwinkie

So if the STFT goes from 1-12 while driving around...-6 a good place to start?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

STFT will be all over the place.
I only care about where it settles near idle.

eviltwinkie

It settles down at idle to +/- ~1-2 with 0 being common...all on the 1.0 first flash...still have to watch it...but figured I'd just double check...

NaarLeven

What is missing from a 6 port A/T support? Is it just a map? Or is it something more?

eviltwinkie

Mainly the manual transmission...ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooo

Haaa