\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

the only way to turn off the cobb is to turn off the car and then disconnect the cobb right?

is it bad to disconnect the cobb while the car is on (of course while not reflashing or doing anything else)?

turborx8

iTrader: (1)

I dont think it matters but if you plug it back in while the car is still on you will get a connection error.

I would like to keep mine plugged in but with the car off the AP stays on.

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

To turn it off you need to unplug it from the handheld part... that can be done with the car on or off (as long as not your not programming of course).

If you want to avoid getting connection errors, you must exit out to the main menu screen before unplugging the AP OR turning the ignition to off. If you do get a connection error, you then must unplug the dongle from the OBD-II port and plug it back in.

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

okay thank you!

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

My Supercat reached 1702 F. What is the range of these I wonder?

meh, my parts are in Salt Lake City at 3AM this morning... Looks like Monday delivery since they are coming FedEx.

Razz1

IT MATTERS!

Christian from Cobb posted that you need to go back to the main menu as there is a possibility you can screw up the memory.

The you are gonna wonder why does my AP not work?

I sure wish that was printed in the manual. Bad Cobb

turborx8

iTrader: (1)

Whoa.. very good to know.

Thanks for the heads up.

kristopher_d

Fixed that for ya. The firmware should definitely NOT be in memorspace that's being written to while connected to the car.

I've seen companies do worse though.

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

okay so i loaded up MM 1.0 and followed the instructions

after 30 seconds the STFT was around 0 to -1

so i drove around for a bit with light throttle and after about 15 min of driving checked the STFT again. it was still hovering around 0 to -1. LTFT ended up at 2 and stayed there.

I gave it more throttle and saw an AFR of 14 above 5500. Im thinking its too lean...so i should move over to the "1b" series right?

Just wanna be sure as to what to do next based on my current results.

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Positive LTFT means it is lean, so you load "a" series like me. But give it several drive cycles first.

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

i dont have to go above 5500 rpms much for the LTFT to be established correctly right?

should i just keep driving on v1.0 for a while and stay under 5500 rpms? (because it seems to be running lean)

So if my positive LTFT is 2, that means i should load up v1_1a right?

Does it matter if my STFT is hovering around 0 to -1?

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

okay drove around a bit more at light to moderately light throttle.

STFT is now at 1

LTFT is now at 5

i guess ill keep driving and see what it goes settles at?

if at over 5500 rpms it is too lean, will that possibly be fixed when i go to one of the "a" maps fix that issue? (such as 1.1a or similar)

Razz1

If you add up the trims they should be around 6 total at idle.
STFT is what matters most.

You look like your map is good to go.

Didn't read the directions MM sent you?
Didin't you read the directions posted here?

You can now proceed to higher RPMS. Watch the AF

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

yes i read the instructions and reread the directions. im just being overly careful because im new to tuning and dont want something bad to happen.

i was concerned because i saw some AFR's of 14 to 14.8 in third gear above 5500 rpms. I was wondering if i should switch to the 1B_0 series maps or to the 1_xA series.

so i should be fine sticking with this map for now? an LTFT of 5 isnt anything to worry about?

mysql

3 layers of black ceramic paint, followed up with 3 layers of ceramic enamel on all 3 intake pipes. It doesn't quite match the black powder coated pipes in the car (glossy wet vs mild gloss that is partially matte), but it looks better than black/silver that I had before. I wouldn't want the maf tube powder coated anyway due to the heat.

I won't be able to report if the ceramic coating helps keep down for a few days though. If this doesn't work, I'll get it ceramic coated at a local shop.

I also made some Z shaped brackets to perm mount my intercooler at the 35 degree angle instead of the zip ties I had on earlier to temporary mount it in place.

turborx8

iTrader: (1)

5500rpm @ cruise will have much different AFR than 5500rpm @ WOT

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

well i wasnt at WOT but i was probably around 60% throttle on 3rd gear when i saw AFR's of 14 to 14.8

thats way too lean right?

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Your camera is buzzed, or my eyes just cannot focus tonight

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

How do you know you were at 60% throttle? If you are just guessing by foot feel, then you most likely were not loading the engine, and just pushing slowly on the accelerator, right? I would ask Jeff if you need to move to 1_2a or 1_3a like me. The "a" series adds fuel. That should help with your piece of mind while you learn.

mysql

heh.

iphone in low light condition with finger prints on the lens.

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

there is a series of maps though called 1b_2a... made for the uberlean cars like mine

HiTMaNN

BB 8800 > I Phone


That looks bad *** Jas I am really digging the powder coating don't know about the ceramic that Matte finish doesn't quite match though

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Yikes - did not know that. This is a learning curve for us first users.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You should see 14 all the time except under heavy or wide open throttle.
"More" throttle doesn't count.


No.

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

okay thanks

ill stay on your v1.0 for more drive cycles then and see how things go.