\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

ooh i see. i know of a place around here where i can get higher octane gas. kind of out of the way though, so ill probably just be sticking to a stage 2 flash.


also, its a lot riskier running too lean then running a bit too rich right? or in the long run will they both eat your engine eventually?

mysql

too rich is how the car comes from the factory.

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

haha thats true!

devildog1679

Konig,

How many drive cycle’s do you do before determining weather you should change maps? I see we have similar mods, what reading's are you seeing on 1b_0?

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

i dont change maps until i see that the LTFT has settled and isnt changing anymore. i had to change from the v1.0 map because it was just too lean in the upper rev range.

i am still on the v1b_0 and have only done about 6 or 7 drive cycles. im going to stay with it for a while and see where the idle STFT and LTFT's end up. If i see that they are not changing after a while (probably a few days) then ill decide where to go from there.

Last time i drove it the LTFT was at 4 and STFT was hovering around 0.
Feels very smooth so far and in the upper rev range im seeing AFR's around 13 and 12, some 11's occasionally. im still going to drive around a bit more and ill give more feedback.

NgoRX8

iTrader: (1)

yea... 11.0 at WOT NA very often.

im sitting at around 12s with a few 11s and 13s using 1b_1a

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

will going from stage 1 to stage 2 make the upper rpms more lean? Or do the different "stages" change other things?

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

I have to agree with that . The two times the AP has been on my car for testing and then removed and reset back to factory, the car seems like it has a little more poop. Then it kinda fades back to it's original slug mode.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

It takes fuel in a bunch of different places - mostly in lower gears. It also adds timing, so if you are already lean, you want to wait until you are sure the 1b series is stable. Otherwise, there is a 1c.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

HOLY CRAP, I did some data logging on my stock flash just so I can compare the AP flash to it and I was shocked to see how rich my car was running.

I was constantly at 11.02 AFR.

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Feed the Kitty.

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

oh i see

yeah i will wait and see how stable the 1b series is first.

devildog1679

WOW, so after 5 drive cycles on the 1b_0 map I saw AFR at 11.2-11.8 at WOT, and AFR's of 13.2-13.8 at light throttle. Cruising bellow 5K saw AFR of 14.7 but when I get on the gas lightly and work my way to redline the AFR's drop to mid 13's. STFT was at -1 and LTFT at -3. Now I'm guessing I'm running to rich, should I just stick to these settings and see if it settles? I don't think I can do damage with such rich AFR's since that is what I have read the factory settings are at. I can seeThis takes time and patience.

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

will the ap eliminate the dip in power around 6500 RPM?

Floyd

To rich? That sounds about perfect to me. Am I way off here?

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Or a single day at the dyno with Jeff and his itty bitty eePC

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

the instructions from jeff say this

Watch your A/Fs at high load. If they start to swing too lean or too rich, let me know.
You should be seeing high 13's in some conditions, mid 13's in most conditions and high 12's in others.

devildog1679

I wonder how much he charges. I know there is a Cobb dealer in Chicago that does custom tunes but they charge 199 per hour. I'm also not sure if they have ever done Tunes for RX-8's since the AP just came out.

DarthRX8

For those of you who have the AP and are NA, what types of 0 to 60 times are you seeing?

devildog1679

Map in use 1b_0
I just did two more drive cycles and saw the same #'s. AFR at 11.2-11.8 at WOT, and AFR's of 12.5-13.5 at light throttle above 5500 RPM, Idle AFR at 15.2. Cruising bellow 5K saw AFR of 14.7, but when I get on the gas lightly and work my way to redline the AFR's drop to mid 12.5-13.5. STFT was at -1 and LTFT at -2. Not sure what to do?

Razz1

Sounds good to me.

devildog1679

Now I'm confused because on the first post MM states the following.

Watch your A/Fs at high load. If they start to swing too lean or too rich, you must contact MazdaManiac for adjustments. You should be seeing high 13's in some conditions, mid 13's in most conditions and high 12's in others. FI cars should see 11's while in boost. At all other throttle conditions, A/Fs should be in the mid 14s. Watch your A/Fs through the "equivalence ratio" display in live data

I'm not FI? Though I wish I was. According to his statement I am running rish ain't I? I barely get on the gas and my AFR go from 14.7 to 12.5-13.5. I was under the impression that mid 13's is where we want to be at WOT not at light throttle. At WOT I am consistantly seeing 11.2, isn't this what a Turbo set-up should be at not NA?

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

the way i believe it is is that you would want mid to low 13's at WOT untill you get into the 7500 8000 rpm range then drop to 12s for the rest of the rpm band

mysql

you just want it a bit richer at 5.5k range, above and below that you can go leaner.

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

okay just drove around more

im still on the v1b_0 map, gotten quite a few drive cycles on it.
LTFT is at 3
STFT is hovering around 0 (plus or minus 1)
In the upper rev range at WOT all ive seen are mid 12's and mid to high 11's

MM,
Are these AFR's good for now since when i move to stage 2 it will be a little leaner on the top end?