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Old 04-08-2008, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by devildog1679
So if I understand this correctly, for optimal performance with minimal risk we want to be in the mid 12 to mid 13's at WOT or high load? If so what does 11.2 at WOT do for performance since that is where I'm at? Being that my LTFT is -2 I will be moving to the 1b_2b map which removes 2% fuel, so is it safe to assume that my AFR will increase a bit from what I'm at now? Man this tuning stuff is complicated but fun.
if your LTFT settled to -2, then you use the 1b_1b map (1b subtracts 2%) and it will bring you to zero like the first post indicates.

There is no one set afr number for best performance... its a moving target.
Old 04-08-2008, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by devildog1679
FUNNY
Yeah.

It really sucks that I have not been able to get into boost for months now. I am starting to have withdrawals.
Old 04-08-2008, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by r0tor
if your LTFT settled to -2, then you use the 1b_1b map (1b subtracts 2%) and it will bring you to zero like the first post indicates.

There is no one set afr number for best performance... its a moving target.
Thanks
Old 04-08-2008, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by turborx8
Yeah.

It really sucks that I have not been able to get into boost for months now. I am starting to have withdrawals.
OH, I'm sorry I thought you were takeing a jab at me. I didn't realize it was about you. That does suck, hope you get it working soon.
Old 04-08-2008, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by devildog1679
OH, I'm sorry I thought you were takeing a jab at me. I didn't realize it was about you. That does suck, hope you get it working soon.
Once my Mazsport CAI is installed I expect everything to be sorted.
Old 04-08-2008, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by turborx8
Yeah.

It really sucks that I have not been able to get into boost for months now. I am starting to have withdrawals.
So,why don't you send me feedback on the calibrations I send you?
You are on the third set now. Still no improvement?
Old 04-08-2008, 02:32 PM
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MM, i sent you an email to your AP address.
Old 04-08-2008, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
So,why don't you send me feedback on the calibrations I send you?
You are on the third set now. Still no improvement?
That's news to me.

I never received anything.
Old 04-08-2008, 05:20 PM
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Currently on 1b_0, so far I have done about 8 drive cycles on this map. STFT settled at -1, LTFT settled at -2. AFR idle 15, AFR WOT 11.4, AFR high load 12.5. While cruising STFT stays b/w +-6 of idle trim, less when I get on it a little then it jumps up to 12, guessing this is normal? Going to flash the 1b_1b map tomorrow.
Old 04-08-2008, 05:52 PM
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i tried the 1b_1a map today and saw AFR's in the mid 14's at WOT from 5-6k rpms, after that it settled down to around 12. im pretty sure its too lean for the 5-6k rpm area, so i came back to the 1b_0 map and LTFT is settled at 4 like it was before.

i guess ill just stay with the 1b_0 map until i get the stage 2 maps from jeff next week.
Old 04-08-2008, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by \\Konig\\
i tried the 1b_1a map today and saw AFR's in the mid 14's at WOT from 5-6k rpms, after that it settled down to around 12. im pretty sure its too lean for the 5-6k rpm area, so i came back to the 1b_0 map and LTFT is settled at 4 like it was before.
your probably just seeing the open/closed loop transition
Old 04-08-2008, 06:05 PM
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just ordere my cobb Ap yesterday.. any feedback you guys want to give me? heads up?

Well im not FI yet..
Old 04-08-2008, 06:19 PM
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one tip: when your in the live views mode and the car is on, remember to press cancel and exit out of the live mode BEFORE turning the car off, otherwise you will get a connection error next time you start the car. If you forget, simply unplug and replug the obd connector and it should be able to connect again

another tip: if you are seeing AFR's of 14+ at wide open throttle above 5k rpms, it most likely means you will need to go to the 1B series maps. dont continuously run your car at WOT with those afrs...i dont think its good for it...
Old 04-08-2008, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by devildog1679
Currently on 1b_0, so far I have done about 8 drive cycles on this map. STFT settled at -1, LTFT settled at -2. AFR idle 15, AFR WOT 11.4, AFR high load 12.5. While cruising STFT stays b/w +-6 of idle trim, less when I get on it a little then it jumps up to 12, guessing this is normal? Going to flash the 1b_1b map tomorrow.
Read the directions again.

You are concerned about the trims at idle. That's it.

Go back a couple of posts and read what MM posted.

1b_1b is the wrong way to go. That will change the AF. You are good to go now.

For more power and higher risk you need to go to stage two same level of map.

Remember when you go up a stage you can mess your engine, it will certainly mess with your Cat.

Are you willing to pay 300 to 400 buck plus install for a new cat? Are you willing to risk blowing the engine?

If you go to stage two be careful. If its not correct go back right away.

You are good to go for the street. I would not go up a stage unless your racing.

I went up a stage and it is not correct for my car so I need to go back. (I track my car)

(STFT settled at -1, LTFT settled at -2) this is with in six points for your car.

Last edited by Razz1; 04-08-2008 at 06:29 PM.
Old 04-08-2008, 06:33 PM
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IMO the only way to guarantee anything above stage 1 is to get a custom tune on a dyno ...
Old 04-08-2008, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Razz1
Read the directions again.

You are concerned about the trims at idle. That's it.

Go back a couple of posts and read what MM posted.

1b_1b is the wrong way to go. That will change the AF. You are good to go now.

For more power and higher risk you need to go to stage two same level of map.

Remember when you go up a stage you can mess your engine, it will certainly mess with your Cat.

Are you willing to pay 300 to 400 buck plus install for a new cat? Are you willing to risk blowing the engine?

If you go to stage two be careful. If its not correct go back right away.

You are good to go for the street. I would not go up a stage unless your racing.

I went up a stage and it is not correct for my car so I need to go back. (I track my car)

(STFT settled at -1, LTFT settled at -2) this is with in six points for your car.
Excelent, Thank You. Now I did track my car at least one weakend a month last summer and I'm planning on the same this summer. I'm actually going to Road America this weekend, though I don't think I'll be using the AP. I want to make sure I'm dialed in perfectly first. Do you recomend seeing how stage 2 works for me? It will only be used for the track.
Old 04-08-2008, 06:59 PM
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hmm i had an LTFT of 4 on the 1b_0 flash, so a little while ago i tried the 1b_2a flash.

AFR seems to be more consistent in the upper ranges and my LTFT is at -2 now.

should i go back to the 1b_0 flash? i just wondering because razz just told devildog not to change maps...
Old 04-08-2008, 07:02 PM
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razz1,

how did you come to find that stage 2 wasnt for you? was it not running right? please explain.
Old 04-08-2008, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Razz1
Read the directions again.

You are concerned about the trims at idle. That's it.

Go back a couple of posts and read what MM posted.

1b_1b is the wrong way to go. That will change the AF. You are good to go now.
I think you need to read the directions over again.

He's as -2% LTFT which means the ECu is trying to subtract 2%. 1b map subtracts 2%. He should go to the 1b_1b map and then he will be at zero fuel trims. End of story.
Old 04-08-2008, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by \\Konig\\
hmm i had an LTFT of 4 on the 1b_0 flash, so a little while ago i tried the 1b_2a flash.

AFR seems to be more consistent in the upper ranges and my LTFT is at -2 now.

should i go back to the 1b_0 flash? i just wondering because razz just told devildog not to change maps...

Give it a good 10 or so drive cycles. I had a +2 with the 1b_0 map. I switched to the 1b_1a map and after a few drive cycles I was at +2 again. I gave it a few more drive cycles and now I'm at .78% and steady for a couple weeks.
Old 04-08-2008, 09:25 PM
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okay thank you, ill just stay on 1b_2a for more drive cycles and see how it goes.
Old 04-08-2008, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by r0tor
I think you need to read the directions over again.

He's as -2% LTFT which means the ECu is trying to subtract 2%. 1b map subtracts 2%. He should go to the 1b_1b map and then he will be at zero fuel trims. End of story.
Well, I'm getting some conflicting information. Since going from 1b_0 to 1b_1b will more then likely not cause ant major issues I tried it out. After two drive cycles I'm at STFT -1 and LTFT 0. Idle AFR was 15.2 cruising AFR was 14.7 and WOT AFR was 11.0. My AFR at a steady 6000 rpm was 12.5 to 13.8. Is my WOT AFR to low at 11.0? Sorry for all the questions, I have read through all the threads and I am learning allot but I just need some reassurance on some of these things. Thanks for all your help and patience.

I have read that the stock flash has AFR of low 11's at WOT. So I'm essentially seeing the same #'s as stock. So how can the engine be producing more power On post #459 MM stated "Yeah, WOT with a properly trimmed AP map should be12.9:1 - 13.7:1,depending on the "level".
"So I'm off.

Last edited by devildog1679; 04-08-2008 at 11:27 PM.
Old 04-08-2008, 10:54 PM
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My words were more inclined upon STAGE TWO as in comparision to the minor tweaks on the same level as stage 1.

But going between the same iterations you still have to be careful.

Stage two is just too lean on top end it starts around 7500 and hits 14.7 at WOT.
The AP does have a lag to it so I would like to get a data log rather than purely using the AP.

It never passes 14.7 but the way I drive on the track its way too lean.

I have no problem holding up at high RPM.

The rotary was made for it and loves it. The 13b has been proven strong by several members.
Old 04-08-2008, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Razz1
My words were more inclined upon STAGE TWO as in comparision to the minor tweaks on the same level as stage 1.

But going between the same iterations you still have to be careful.

Stage two is just too lean on top end it starts around 7500 and hits 14.7 at WOT.
The AP does have a lag to it so I would like to get a data log rather than purely using the AP.

It never passes 14.7 but the way I drive on the track its way too lean.

I have no problem holding up at high RPM.

The rotary was made for it and loves it. The 13b has been proven strong by several members.
What #'s are you seeing at WOT?
Old 04-08-2008, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Razz1
My words were more inclined upon STAGE TWO as in comparision to the minor tweaks on the same level as stage 1.

But going between the same iterations you still have to be careful.

Stage two is just too lean on top end it starts around 7500 and hits 14.7 at WOT.
The AP does have a lag to it so I would like to get a data log rather than purely using the AP.

It never passes 14.7 but the way I drive on the track its way too lean.

I have no problem holding up at high RPM.

The rotary was made for it and loves it. The 13b has been proven strong by several members.
i dont think that is a problem that has to do with moving up to stage 2. i say this because when i first tried stage 1 (base map, no trim) i was seeing mid 14's at WOT at anything above 5500 RPM's. This is why i immediately moved to the 1B series and that solved the problem.

So maybe it is a problem with MM's stage 2 maps in the upper rev area that he needs to solve, or perhaps there is a b series of stage 2 maps for cars that run leaner than normal?

either way, from what ive read 14.7 is way too lean for WOT at 7500 rpms REGARDLESS of what "stage" it is. So MM probably just has to fix the map and it will work correctly for you.


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