MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Above 7200, you really want to see 12.5:1.
There isn't any power really going a point leaner.
The race teams that do that do it to save fuel. They can afford to sacrifice the motor to some extent and have open exhausts, intakes and nothing out front but a rad.

huzer21

iTrader: (1)

Updated the AP Manager software and all is fine. The error had prevented the AP from talking to the laptop, so it wasn't completely meaningless. As it was, I didn't follow the instructions and forgot to update the AP Manager software first. Oops. The firmware update is good, the Fuel mileage stuff actually works, as does live data when turning off/on the car. All is good.

Daemos

mm sent you another email =) I'm running leaner than that...so I'm gonna keep my driving fairly conservative for now...

cheeto

so am i. lowest so far is 12.9. but the fuel trims are still building, so i will keep going. i just dont want to burn up my cat.

Razz1

Re-read the directions. Check the STFT. You may be on the wrong iteration and can move it one.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

back to running a cat?

cheeto

well mazda just replaced mine for free, since it was "failed"

but i just want to make sure those AFR's wont burn up my cat. if i need to remove it, or when i go to more aggressive tunes

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

just updated the firmware and here is what i think

-i could not figure out what cobb meant by the "shift light" function. theres no new readout in live mode for it and i dont know where it is.

-the fuel economy was saying i was getting an average of 15 mpg, i dont use that mode anyways so it didnt really matter to me. nice to know its fixed though.

-i thought this update would let me turn the car off while it was in live mode (turn car off, cancel out to main menu, unplug AP). when i did that and tried to go into live mode the next time i started the car, i got a connection error just like before the firmware update.

-im glad the live mode was moved so that it is selected right when the AP starts up!

Daemos

I am running MM's revised maps for cars that run more lean, because the original set I was above 14 af at WOT.

my STFT is at 0, the basemap was not, it's now at 0 with the correct iteration. I have tried moving into the next iteration in the same direction of the original and STFT is no longer at 0 and WOT af is still the same.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

jeff,

what is going on is sebring on sat. i would venture down it that was cool..

beers

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

One of my Grand Am teams is going to a track day after our dyno tune on Friday.

devildog1679

It's in the set-up screen.

Rocketman1976

MM, glad to have you back It was a quiet week without you.

Should I run my car with the stock cats and catback exhaust for an optimal tune to be setup, or should I put the 3" catless mid-pipe back in then do a EFIdude data log and send it to you?

I prefer the sound with the cats, but if the catless setup will be a lot better than I can go back to that.

devildog1679

Now I am no Tuner but from what I've read going catless should pose no issues for you. Some have had issued with CAI's. I would go catless or maybe a high flow cat just for the purpose of freeing up some more pony's.

Rocketman1976

I know the cat-less would free up some hp, but I'm just trying to weigh the extra hp against the obnoxious high school kid Honda sound. I bought the cat-less pipe for future use, once I get the turbo kit from MM or the MM/BHR kit I will definitely use it. For now I would prefer the good sound with the cat if the cat-less pipe only gives me 3 or 4 more horse over a good tuned cat-back setup. I just wanted MM's opinion on how much more power I could get and if he thought it would be worth it.

With cat-less I always drove with my windows up although I did like the flame show.

mysql

if you're NA, going catless isn't worth it.

The only thing I'd watch for is if the cat dies on you and starts to clog the exhaust. But it should be apparent if that happens.

\\Konig\\

iTrader: (4)

haha the smell is the best part!

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

until your the poor bastard stuck in a traffic jam behind the loser that decided to gain 2hp by going catless...

Rocketman1976

Lol, or the loser that is driving next to your cat-less RX-8 trying to use the cell phone

Thanks mysql, I'll keep the cats in until they are dead. Similar to an old woman in one of Florida's finest trailer parks.

mysql

I bet you I gained a lot more than 2 whp!

It's okay, I put my AC on recirculate. No fumes.

morkusyambo

Jeff. I just finished trying the Pettit v2 maps. The closest the v1 maps could get me was -20 STFT. The closest the v2s could get me was 20 STFT. Think it has something to due with no CAT being present??

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

No. Its the MAF calibrations.
Each of the Pettit installs has an entirely different calibration.
Send me info at my ap@mazdamaniac e-mail, not here.

Rocketman1976

How long do you have to drive around on a newly loaded map to really know if your car is testing better on the Butt dyno?

I got my AP today, I used the -4% trim and was between -2/+1 at idle. I drove it around my neighborhood for about 15 mins, then went on a 3 mile trip and accelerated a few times, in the high revs @ 6000+ it felt slower and I felt a surge of power for a second but mostly bog. By looking at my AP the AFR was around 12.9 in the high revs. I'll have to do a Data log to be sure because the Cobb has a half second or so delay, but it looked to be in the 12.8-13.6 range mostly.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Your butt is not a dyno.

Rocketman1976

Lol

If I brought my car to the dyno and tried several maps, how long or what should I do between flashes?