Cobb AccessPORT Discussion
05-05-2008, 11:54 AM
#2376
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Earlier I posted a reply to Cheeto and I made a correction to it because I don't want a laymen like me to not understand this and set their STFT incorrectly.
**********The wording above his graph of +/- % is what you go by.***************
***********I used the chart he made at first and the STFT was worse after every change.*********
***********The a's are the -'s *****************
***********and the b's are the +'s
***********use 1_5a to -10%*****************
The above was incorrect, Jeff(MM) explained it to me.
Your car is adding +6 fuel so you go ahead and add the fuel by doing a +6 which is the 1_3a which does say adds +6, then the car will no longer need to add it and it will be at 0. So it is written correctly, I think some of us just didn't really understand how it worked.
**********The wording above his graph of +/- % is what you go by.***************
***********I used the chart he made at first and the STFT was worse after every change.*********
***********The a's are the -'s *****************
***********and the b's are the +'s
***********use 1_5a to -10%*****************
The above was incorrect, Jeff(MM) explained it to me.
Your car is adding +6 fuel so you go ahead and add the fuel by doing a +6 which is the 1_3a which does say adds +6, then the car will no longer need to add it and it will be at 0. So it is written correctly, I think some of us just didn't really understand how it worked.
05-05-2008, 12:13 PM
#2377
I'm still in Miami, cooling my heels at the airport, but I'll try to answer some of this with my tiny laptop.
Apparently, you can't/won't follow directions.
Try following the directions.
Didn't print it, but I can put that together when I get home.
The compression tool have actually produces a continuous graph of your motor's compression cycles, so you can tell a lot about its health - not just its net numbers.
That dude was leaning into it and then, after he finally pulled out at when J let off, he flashes his brake lights.
Moron.
Let him try that with 3 more seats, a passenger and 2500 pounds of additional sheet metal, plastic, air-conditioning and glass.
I do not have access to this. none of the turbo cars in my area have this.
I will try to borrow one from someone and put it on my car for testing.
I don't recall ever being asked such a question going anywhere, least of all Canada.
You can just roll into Canada.
That's what it says in the instructions.
No lies, got mine Friday have had it installed for a few days trying different maps, pretty sure that stock config has more power, doesn't struggle in lower rpms. i've ran 3 maps 1a 1b 2b and the 0 map to start out, only tried that 1a cause the b's seemed bad but then a's are worse.
The compression tool have actually produces a continuous graph of your motor's compression cycles, so you can tell a lot about its health - not just its net numbers.
Moron.
Let him try that with 3 more seats, a passenger and 2500 pounds of additional sheet metal, plastic, air-conditioning and glass.
I will try to borrow one from someone and put it on my car for testing.
You can just roll into Canada.
That's what it says in the instructions.
05-05-2008, 05:01 PM
#2380
Tailgaters beware
Watch that value and, once the car is nearly warmed up, take it around the block.
If the STFT is a negative value, you will use one of the files that end in "b". If it is a positive value, you will use a file that ends in "a". THIS IS THE ONLY TIME WHEN THIS CALIBRATION TECHNIQUE IS VALID. ONCE THE CALIBRATION HAS BEEN INSTALLED FOR A FEW DRIVE CYCLES, THIS METHOD NO LONGER APPLIES.
If the fuel trim is off the scale in one direction or another, you must contact MazdaManiac for adjustments.
Once the idle trim is correct (a few % one way or another is totally no big deal - in fact, up to 12% is acceptable since the PCM can go up to 22% before it starts to struggle), drive around in various conditions less that high load and see if the LTFT stays within +/-6% or so of the idle trim.
If so, you are good to go!:
If the STFT is a negative value, you will use one of the files that end in "b". If it is a positive value, you will use a file that ends in "a". THIS IS THE ONLY TIME WHEN THIS CALIBRATION TECHNIQUE IS VALID. ONCE THE CALIBRATION HAS BEEN INSTALLED FOR A FEW DRIVE CYCLES, THIS METHOD NO LONGER APPLIES.
If the fuel trim is off the scale in one direction or another, you must contact MazdaManiac for adjustments.
Once the idle trim is correct (a few % one way or another is totally no big deal - in fact, up to 12% is acceptable since the PCM can go up to 22% before it starts to struggle), drive around in various conditions less that high load and see if the LTFT stays within +/-6% or so of the idle trim.
If so, you are good to go!:
You only use STFT to get near 0 at idle right?
Then you drive around in normal driving conditions not WOT and you watch the LTFT to be sure it doesn't fluctuate more than +/-6%.
The part I am messed up with is... Say you get the STFT to 0 at idle, then you drive and it is going up +8%, do you then use flash of 1_4a to add the 8% fuel so that the EMU no longer needs to add it?
You will be riding around at the correct trim and the STFT at idle is no longer a concern?
Someone please clear this up for me, before I enroll in for engine tuning 101
Last edited by Rocketman1976; 05-05-2008 at 05:03 PM.
05-05-2008, 05:19 PM
#2381
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I guess I had this wrong...
You only use STFT to get near 0 at idle right?
Then you drive around in normal driving conditions not WOT and you watch the LTFT to be sure it doesn't fluctuate more than +/-6%.
The part I am messed up with is... Say you get the STFT to 0 at idle, then you drive and it is going up +8%, do you then use flash of 1_4a to add the 8% fuel so that the EMU no longer needs to add it?
You will be riding around at the correct trim and the STFT at idle is no longer a concern?
Someone please clear this up for me, before I enroll in for engine tuning 101
You only use STFT to get near 0 at idle right?
Then you drive around in normal driving conditions not WOT and you watch the LTFT to be sure it doesn't fluctuate more than +/-6%.
The part I am messed up with is... Say you get the STFT to 0 at idle, then you drive and it is going up +8%, do you then use flash of 1_4a to add the 8% fuel so that the EMU no longer needs to add it?
You will be riding around at the correct trim and the STFT at idle is no longer a concern?
Someone please clear this up for me, before I enroll in for engine tuning 101
05-05-2008, 05:31 PM
#2382
Tailgaters beware
What about what he is saying?
Is it once you get your STFT to stay around 0% you leave it alone because it sets the frame work for your LTFT to be correct? You are just adjusting this idle STFT so the car runs properly according to your atmosphere?
I'm wrapping duct tape around my head as I type so that my head don't explode!
05-05-2008, 05:40 PM
#2383
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What about what he is saying?
Is it once you get your STFT to stay around 0% you leave it alone because it sets the frame work for your LTFT to be correct? You are just adjusting this idle STFT so the car runs properly according to your atmosphere?
I'm wrapping duct tape around my head as I type so that my head don't explode!
Is it once you get your STFT to stay around 0% you leave it alone because it sets the frame work for your LTFT to be correct? You are just adjusting this idle STFT so the car runs properly according to your atmosphere?
I'm wrapping duct tape around my head as I type so that my head don't explode!
You install the AP v1_0 map. You let the car warm up, look at your stft lets say you have -3. You go for a drive around the block, you come back and idle stft is -6. You now use that -6 # and reflash to v1_ 3b.ptm. You repeat the process again, this time after a quick drive around the block your stft should be close to 0, if you see -2 or +2 these are negligable. Now you just do a couple of drive cycles and watch your AFR's. Ignor STFT's. If your LTFT is within +-12 you are good to go.
05-05-2008, 05:46 PM
#2384
Tailgaters beware
OK, lets try out a scenario.
You install the AP v1_0 map. You let the car warm up, look at your stft lets say you have -3. You go for a drive around the block, you come back and idle stft is -6. You now use that -6 # and reflash to v1_ 3b.ptm. You repeat the process again, this time after a quick drive around the block your stft should be close to 0, if you see -2 or +2 these are negligable. Now you just do a couple of drive cycles and watch your AFR's. Ignor STFT's. If your LTFT is within +-12 you are good to go.
You install the AP v1_0 map. You let the car warm up, look at your stft lets say you have -3. You go for a drive around the block, you come back and idle stft is -6. You now use that -6 # and reflash to v1_ 3b.ptm. You repeat the process again, this time after a quick drive around the block your stft should be close to 0, if you see -2 or +2 these are negligable. Now you just do a couple of drive cycles and watch your AFR's. Ignor STFT's. If your LTFT is within +-12 you are good to go.
I'm removing the tape now...
ugh... its ripping my side burns off the side of my head...
Last edited by Rocketman1976; 05-05-2008 at 05:48 PM.
05-05-2008, 06:05 PM
#2386
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I haven't looked at my fuel trims since Jeff picked out a map for me 2 weeks ago. Hmmm...maybe I'll check this week just for fun.
05-05-2008, 06:42 PM
#2387
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OK, lets try out a scenario.
You install the AP v1_0 map. You let the car warm up, look at your stft lets say you have -3. You go for a drive around the block, you come back and idle stft is -6. You now use that -6 # and reflash to v1_ 3b.ptm. You repeat the process again, this time after a quick drive around the block your stft should be close to 0, if you see -2 or +2 these are negligable. Now you just do a couple of drive cycles and watch your AFR's. Ignor STFT's. If your LTFT is within +-12 you are good to go.
You install the AP v1_0 map. You let the car warm up, look at your stft lets say you have -3. You go for a drive around the block, you come back and idle stft is -6. You now use that -6 # and reflash to v1_ 3b.ptm. You repeat the process again, this time after a quick drive around the block your stft should be close to 0, if you see -2 or +2 these are negligable. Now you just do a couple of drive cycles and watch your AFR's. Ignor STFT's. If your LTFT is within +-12 you are good to go.
05-05-2008, 06:50 PM
#2388
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While driving your STFT will be everywhere (normal), you are concerned with your stft at idle only. When you came to an idle after driving what was your stft at?
05-05-2008, 07:01 PM
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ugh, STFTs are good to look at only immediately for the first few minutes after you do a flash and clear out the ecu memory... after that they build LTFT
so after driving around, you could be at a 0 STFT but your LTFT could be 6... which would have been the equivalent of 6 on the STFT right when you started
so after driving around, you could be at a 0 STFT but your LTFT could be 6... which would have been the equivalent of 6 on the STFT right when you started
05-05-2008, 07:05 PM
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05-05-2008, 07:10 PM
#2392
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well last time that i was on v1_0 my LTFT was at +10 after 2 weeks of driving.
my AFR's are good. around 14.8 at idle and same with cruising. WOT they are mostly low 13's
but when i am driving, i pretty much always have it on equiv. ratio.
my AFR's are good. around 14.8 at idle and same with cruising. WOT they are mostly low 13's
but when i am driving, i pretty much always have it on equiv. ratio.
Last edited by cheeto; 05-05-2008 at 07:15 PM.
05-05-2008, 07:12 PM
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Got to go and take some more drugs. Had my appendix removed
05-05-2008, 07:27 PM
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05-05-2008, 10:13 PM
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05-05-2008, 10:53 PM
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