How is your new water pump going ?
10-09-2007, 01:15 PM
#451
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JSKUP1: what did your temps look like BEFORE the pump?
10-09-2007, 01:53 PM
#453
The Chief
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Don't get me wrong, since I got the SC, I've driven it, just not under hard "track type" conditions. Jedi, Here is where my temps were on my way to Pettit: Driving 910 miles with the stock water pump, doing 80 MPH running 20% antifreeze + water wetter, w/ ambient temps around 80, my coolant temp was about 185 and my oil temp was 187. On the way home, oil and coolant were at 190. During normal in-town driving, my temps used to be: coolant 185 and oil 180. I just drove the **** out of it in the country and the temps would start out around 200-210 then level off around 190. It seems like it keeps heating up until it really starts moving the coolant at a steady pace and then the temps come down. Also, I now have a S/C, and the associated heat exchangers in front of the AC condensor taking up some airflow. I'm going to keep it for a while. With my next flash, I'm going to see if I can get my cooling fans to come on full speed sooner. We'll see how that works out.
10-10-2007, 12:21 PM
#454
I think you need to be patient. You have a new SC. Use it for 3 months. Also, use it hard.
Then you will have more real data to provide. Don't jump the gun.
The change in ambient temp and humdity and the way you drive keeps changing.
I'm not saying your right or wrong, just give it some more time.
If you want to be scientific about it...... record all data and date and put it in excell sheet. Then discuss results with Paul.
Looking forward to more feedback.
Then you will have more real data to provide. Don't jump the gun.
The change in ambient temp and humdity and the way you drive keeps changing.
I'm not saying your right or wrong, just give it some more time.
If you want to be scientific about it...... record all data and date and put it in excell sheet. Then discuss results with Paul.
Looking forward to more feedback.
10-10-2007, 12:24 PM
#455
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iTrader: (7)
Cavitation is a general term used to describe the behavior of voids or bubbles in a liquid. Cavitation is usually divided into two classes of behavior: inertial (or transient) cavitation and non-inertial cavitation. Inertial cavitation is the process where a void or bubble in a liquid rapidly collapses, producing a shock wave. Such cavitation often occurs in pumps, propellers, impellers, and in the vascular tissues of plants.
10-10-2007, 01:09 PM
#456
I'll snap his neck.
Chief,
You'll notice that your water temp drop much quicker once you get going. I've dropped as much as 10 degrees in less than a mile.
No one ever confirmed or denied my theory that perhaps the coolant was running a little hotter because it was removing more heat from the engine than before.
And Paul is right about faster warm up - I hadn't thought of that as an advantage, but when it is 0 degrees F around here I think I will appreciate that
You'll notice that your water temp drop much quicker once you get going. I've dropped as much as 10 degrees in less than a mile.
No one ever confirmed or denied my theory that perhaps the coolant was running a little hotter because it was removing more heat from the engine than before.
And Paul is right about faster warm up - I hadn't thought of that as an advantage, but when it is 0 degrees F around here I think I will appreciate that
10-10-2007, 01:14 PM
#457
The Chief
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I'm not questioning it's effectiveness at all when driving hard or the faster "warm-up." I'm just wondering if it's worth the trade off of running 15-20 degrees hotter while tooling around town. Is it going to cause damage during normal driving because it's running hotter?
10-10-2007, 01:17 PM
#458
I'll snap his neck.
I think as long as you stay under 220 or so you won't have problems. The hottest I've seen mine get is 211.
And remember, those with oil temp gauges have actually seen the oil temps DROP. That to me is more important than the coolant temp.
And remember, those with oil temp gauges have actually seen the oil temps DROP. That to me is more important than the coolant temp.
10-10-2007, 02:16 PM
#460
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10-10-2007, 04:01 PM
#462
Our pump shouldn't increase your temps to beyond normal. The thermostat is the gate keeper in the system who decides : "It's time to cool things off, I'm going to send the flow to the radiator where air can play it's role, in conjunction with fans(As determined by the computer), whoa, okay that's cool enough, I'm going to shut the gate some and keep these temps where I want them to be".
Systems can get overwhelmed in many ways, including having air pockets, insufficient surface area, capacity, incorrect ratios of mixture, wrong system pressure. There are many things that go into proper cooling. Also, don't forget that water dissipates heat better than coolant or anti-freeze but has a lower boiling point and lacks the anti-corrosive qualities.
Paul.
Systems can get overwhelmed in many ways, including having air pockets, insufficient surface area, capacity, incorrect ratios of mixture, wrong system pressure. There are many things that go into proper cooling. Also, don't forget that water dissipates heat better than coolant or anti-freeze but has a lower boiling point and lacks the anti-corrosive qualities.
Paul.
10-10-2007, 04:06 PM
#463
Our pump shouldn't increase your temps to beyond normal. The thermostat is the gate keeper in the system who decides : "It's time to cool things off, I'm going to send the flow to the radiator where air can play it's role, in conjunction with fans(As determined by the computer), whoa, okay that's cool enough, I'm going to shut the gate some and keep these temps where I want them to be".
Systems can get overwhelmed in many ways, including having air pockets, insufficient surface area, capacity, incorrect ratios of mixture, wrong system pressure. There are many things that go into proper cooling. Also, don't forget that water dissipates heat better than coolant or anti-freeze but has a lower boiling point and lacks the anti-corrosive qualities.
Paul.
Systems can get overwhelmed in many ways, including having air pockets, insufficient surface area, capacity, incorrect ratios of mixture, wrong system pressure. There are many things that go into proper cooling. Also, don't forget that water dissipates heat better than coolant or anti-freeze but has a lower boiling point and lacks the anti-corrosive qualities.
Paul.
Any idea why?
I think the stock thermostat "Partial Open/Fully Open" time is kinda too high.
10-10-2007, 05:11 PM
#465
Paul.
you 
10-14-2007, 09:22 PM
#470
10-15-2007, 06:18 PM
#472
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Jon is not bashing the pump, nor am I. He is asking questions as to why it does not "appear" to out perform stock. The quicker heat up "in my opinion" does not necessarily equal better. I guess we are just wondering if this product is practical for daily use? Or should it be listed for "off road use"? We are both FI and had about the same water temps before we went FI. The only difference between our set-ups now is the MazMart pump. It should be that Jon stays cooler and cools faster! It appears as if it is the opposite though.
Jon... I am off tomorrow so maybe we can get up and a do some runs and launches out in the county to compare notes. Maybe a BlackWater trip? That would be about 1 full hour of all types of driving conditions to compare notes. Then you can report back to Paul and Will our findings with a little more scientific comparison!?!?!?
Last edited by vIce^gRip; 10-15-2007 at 06:46 PM.
10-15-2007, 06:30 PM
#473
The Chief
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Jon... I am off tomorrow so maybe we can get up and a do some runs and launches out in the county to compare notes. Maybe a BlackWater trip? That would be about 1 full hour of all types of driving conditions to compare notes. Then you can report back to Paul and Will our findings with a little more scientific comparison!?!?!?
so I may be pretty tired since I'm not used to being up so early anymore. I'm actually getting ready to go to bed right now to get ready for it. Do you have an sdisk you can load into the remote for your nexus gauges? We could do a little recording of our gauges and compare that way.
