Interceptor Installed; First Impressions
#1
Interceptor Installed; First Impressions
I got it installed today and so far it looks good.
- the idle does not fluctuate anymore, can't tell a difference between a stock 8.
- no more annoying air pump staying on after engine is turned off
- the BACKFIRING IS GONE! Before, I could make it pop almost on demand, just by accelerating and then letting off the throttle. Didn't pop once on my test drive, but I didn't go into boost yet.
It's not really noticeable with the stock cat on, but with my RP supercat, man that was getting old.
-Took it around the block and no more stuttering. I haven't gone into boost yet, I'll do that tommorrow and monitor the AFR's.
Scott, I did notice that the AFR's are sitting at 11.0-11.5 at IDLE. As soon as I start driving it goes up close to 14.5-14.7. Is this normal?
Also, could you send me that missing piece I emailed you about? I've rigged one up, but I'd rather have the supplied full length one.
- the idle does not fluctuate anymore, can't tell a difference between a stock 8.
- no more annoying air pump staying on after engine is turned off
- the BACKFIRING IS GONE! Before, I could make it pop almost on demand, just by accelerating and then letting off the throttle. Didn't pop once on my test drive, but I didn't go into boost yet.
It's not really noticeable with the stock cat on, but with my RP supercat, man that was getting old.
-Took it around the block and no more stuttering. I haven't gone into boost yet, I'll do that tommorrow and monitor the AFR's.
Scott, I did notice that the AFR's are sitting at 11.0-11.5 at IDLE. As soon as I start driving it goes up close to 14.5-14.7. Is this normal?
Also, could you send me that missing piece I emailed you about? I've rigged one up, but I'd rather have the supplied full length one.
#2
Scott, About my 11.0AFR's at idle.... I just read your post on what the VAC readings should be at idle and read the manual.
I'll check that tommorrow and also read the rest of the manual (Idle SETUP section ) before going into boost.
I'll check that tommorrow and also read the rest of the manual (Idle SETUP section ) before going into boost.
Originally Posted by MazsportScott
Make sure that when monitoring the laptop that the VAC gauge show between 12-20 inches at idle.
Last edited by adrian-1; 10-29-2005 at 01:51 PM.
#4
Originally Posted by adrian-1
Scott, About my 11.0AFR's at idle.... I just read your post on what the VAC readings should be at idle and read the manual.
I'll check that tommorrow and also read the rest of the manual (Idle SETUP section ) before going into boost.
I'll check that tommorrow and also read the rest of the manual (Idle SETUP section ) before going into boost.
Last edited by MazsportScott; 10-29-2005 at 07:17 PM.
#5
Hope you don't mind, but I'll add my first impressions to this thread as well. I just picked my -8 up at Mazsport today, then took it on the road for 7 1/2 hours to bring it home. Now, I never had the EManage on the car, so I can't do a compare/contrast. But, let me just say WOW. I love this car! I loved it before, of course, but the change is incredible. No driveability issues under boost or not under boost, no idle problems, still get 19MPG on the highway, and you can blow by people in 5th gear. Sweet action all the way around. Unfortunately, the dyno guy flaked on Scott and me this morning, so I didn't get a chance to get any hard numbers (I also had Scott upgrade my turbo as part of the install). Hopefully soon we can get it to a dyno and see what she's putting down at the wheels. I know this much, though - my butt-dyno says it's plenty enough to get me in trouble.
#6
Originally Posted by ScudRunner
Hope you don't mind, but I'll add my first impressions to this thread as well.
#7
Originally Posted by MazsportScott
If the water is below 82c the additional percentage of fuel added (water temp screen) in the area closest to the actual water temp will cause richer idle mixtures. Once the engine is at operating temp it should normalize usually in the 13's. There is also extra fuel enrichment when the A/C compressor is on (cycled on) to help stabilize the idle. Watch the bottom of the screen (auxin) and you will see that field becomeactive on and off. ..........
Keep in mind, if the tps calibration "*" is not on the idle screens are not referenced and no changes will occur.
Keep in mind, if the tps calibration "*" is not on the idle screens are not referenced and no changes will occur.
My VAC is reading 20 at idle, briefly read through the manual, I'll read up on how to set that up.
#12
Originally Posted by PUR NRG
adrian-1, what octane are you using? I'm using 91 w/stock plugs and getting "codes like crazy".
#15
#16
Here's a short clip of my boost gauge running at the stock setting and then high boost.
boost gauge video (may not work til tomorrow)
I'm still not tuned, it's running alittle rich at 10.5. I've made an appointment for next Friday to dynotune it. My idle is also still running rich, hopefully they'll figure it out.
I did have some issues with my supercat.
I heard some rattling coming from my RP supercat and removed it to check it out. Found that the cat material had come loose and was moving up/down about 5inches. I couldn't get it out so I had a shop remove the cat material and then welded it back. So it's now gutted, sounds alittle louder. But runs better.
I have a B&B midpipe on order and will sell the super(no)cat afterwards ($150 shipped in US).
Video of how it sounds with the borla here.
I also discovered that my stock cat material was broken. See picture. I was going to reinstall it before I found out it was bad. I'm guessing the increased exhaust heat destroyed both cats. I had the stock cat on with turbo for 2 months. The RP has been on for about 6 months.
boost gauge video (may not work til tomorrow)
I'm still not tuned, it's running alittle rich at 10.5. I've made an appointment for next Friday to dynotune it. My idle is also still running rich, hopefully they'll figure it out.
I did have some issues with my supercat.
I heard some rattling coming from my RP supercat and removed it to check it out. Found that the cat material had come loose and was moving up/down about 5inches. I couldn't get it out so I had a shop remove the cat material and then welded it back. So it's now gutted, sounds alittle louder. But runs better.
I have a B&B midpipe on order and will sell the super(no)cat afterwards ($150 shipped in US).
Video of how it sounds with the borla here.
I also discovered that my stock cat material was broken. See picture. I was going to reinstall it before I found out it was bad. I'm guessing the increased exhaust heat destroyed both cats. I had the stock cat on with turbo for 2 months. The RP has been on for about 6 months.
Last edited by adrian-1; 11-10-2005 at 03:44 AM.
#23
Originally Posted by Moostafa29
Sorry I'm just picking this up now. Did the turbo eat up your cat, and supercat?!?
I know I've read a few threads where the stock cat busted and was clogging the flow on NA cars.
#25
Adrian, I see you have the same problem with the 11psi dropping off at the top of the RPM band...Scott thinks a new exhaust manifold might help this, but I couldn't leave my car down there any longer to for him to experiment.