RK

iTrader: (1)

Probably meant Saturday.

Hopefully Mirka is checking the VIN with a dealership before even bothering to head over. And if it's gonna be a winter driver try to get the dealership to throw in a set of winter wheels and blizzacks. I'd probably tell 'em that since it has the Nav that's the least they can do to make it even.

Oh and make sure you find out what fluids they've changed. Then just because I'd change 'em all out anyway because I don't trust 'em.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Yea...start with just the VIN to the dealership. Have them run what work has been done and then verify that the plugs, coils, starter, tail light, etc have been replaced. The 04 and 05 cars had issues with them which caused some flooding. (The tail light being water flooding instead of fuel flooding.) I do have a baby shower Sat evening for the c6c...but if you need someone out there during the day I can go.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Don't tell me you're going to give the gift of "catch can" at a baby shower.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Not a bad idea. They do have a tendency to overflow. And they're always putting things in the intake that they shouldn't.

docgatorx8er

iTrader: (10)

After Trademark's question I did a quick poll of the people here. Of the people that responded, by far, most use Royal Purple 5W30.

The couple of us that use dyno oil use no particular brand and mostly use the manufacturer's recommendation for 5W20. Some are swiching to 5W30.

Just a quick local poll to answer the question.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

After talking with Rotary Resurrection (the guy that runs his business rebuilding rotary engines) It seems that oil has a lot to do with premature engine failure.

I don't think it would hurt too much to switch to a higher weight - 10w30. He also swears by using a premix....

Which brings me to another poll: How many people here use premix?

RK

iTrader: (1)

I stopped. It's not necessary as long as the oil metering is working fine and after the flash at the end of '07 oil metering seems sufficient. It's a big PITA. I just use what I have left over on track days but forgot it at home for Sebring. The damn thing was going through 3/8 a quart each session so it's getting plenty of oil.

I am definitely switching to a heavier weight. Actually probably move to 10w40. But if you drive it in the winter you probably don't want to switch off 5w (or make sure you switch back and forth).

BTW - I ordered an oil valve thingy to make changes easier. When I changed my oil last I realized there is no crush washer. I started to worry about it when I realized it would be a pain to get a crush washer over the few days I had left and then I realized there wasn't a crush washer on when I last changed my oil.

Probably hadn't had a crush washer for a ton of changes. Thanks oil change places!

Anyway long story short I ordered this, it comes with a crush washer, and I will never have to worry about it again.

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Sh...uctCode=F106NL

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I have the CarFax report for his car... nothing much but a bunch of "vehicle services" along with "checked this, checked that".
Doesn't really tell much at all except the car either had regular maintenance or regular issues that were (hopefully) taken care of.


I think you're pushing it with the tires.
I would be surprised if they actually did... money says they won't.

When the dealer prints out his service history, it should have it included.
His Carfax reported that the previous owner had it served at Park Mazda in Akron.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Maybe. Depends what they have in stock and how desperate they are to move the 8. Its a crappy car to sell in the Winter and I know I've seen plenty of used 8s that have sat on a lot for months. If they're got a decent amount of winter tires in stock they might be willing to let them go for cheap (or free!) in order to move the car.

It's almost always easier to get them to add services/accessories then it is to get the price down.

If you have the VIN create an account on MazdaUSA.com and put that Vin in. You should be able to find out if all the recalls have been performed. Or just have the newbie do it.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Well... actually both types of flooding.
The weaker starter "helped" to create engine flooding.

Which is good. I have to be back in Akron Saturday around noon to finish moving everything from my old house.
Not much, maybe 3-4 truckloads.
If he decides to do this later in the day, I'll need someone else to assist him.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

We'll see.....

Doesn't show a thing, but would be nice.
You have the ability to enter in service information manually.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Mirka just called me.
He was a little sick and couldn't go.
He was going to do it this morning, but will (obviously) change it to another day.
He'll let us know when and hopefully one of us can assist him with this.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I don't.
Premix and heavier weight might be a little overkill for NA cars in Ohio that don't get "beat to hell" on a routine basis.
Plus, a lot of people just follow others on this form, then will fight you when you tell them its not necessary for your application.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

That's funny.
One thing I was going to check with Mirka was if the oil filler neck was upgraded.
And if it wasn't, recommend a catch-can (I know John is jumping up and down with his in hand).

aldiddy81

whats up guys!

I got a question. My left rear shock just went out on me driving on these horrible cleveland streets. Does anyone know a good fairly price place to get this fixed?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Welcome Aldiddy81.
What year is your car and do you still have it under warranty (bumper-to-bumper)?

RK

iTrader: (1)

And what part of Cleveland are you in?

Oh and what color car do you have? That's important, damn it.

docgatorx8er

iTrader: (10)

He's a Lurker. Not a newbie. Been here for a year. Yellow from North Olmsted

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Oh... was confused by the "0" post count.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Ah. That's right. 0 posts and a January start threw me off. It's 2009 now, isn't it?

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Ya, I decided that I should sticky a few of the MW groups.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Well... in preparation of my clutch/flywheel upgrade I decided to remove the clutch pedal assembly for inspection.
As most of you know, our clutch pedal has been known to snap off as it separates from the base plate.
This is caused by two shitty spot welds that was not meant to withstand the constant abuse (especially if you auto-x/track).
As the pedal is pressed it rocks the assembly back and forth, but the base plate doesn't move.
Its only time before the spot welds crack and no longer hold.

I found my pedal was showing signs of separation (1st pic below).
2nd pic shows the two spot welds.
I plan on getting the whole assembly welded to the base plate while its out.

You guys that auto-x/track should take a peek under the foot-well and see how your pedal assembly looks.

Also... whoever assembled my pedal assembly needs choked with some piano wire around the neck!
The retaining ring on the end of the joint pin was on the opposite side (not facing me).
So it was damn near impossible to get the ring off with my uncomfortable angle.
I ended up just breaking the ring to get it off... whose the bitch now?

RK

iTrader: (1)

No way. I'd rather not scare myself that badly.

Did you get the BHR clutch bracket or something else? And which flywheel?

Brian? Mat? John? Steve? Me?

The possibilities are endles...

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

The BHR reinforced bracket upgrade is simply them buying the OEM bracket and welding it themselves.
No reason for me to spend $350 on that when I can have mine welded.

I'm going with the BHR/SPEC 8.98 lb. aluminum flywheel.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Makes sense. Wonder what the OEM bracket costs new.

Feel like welding more than one? Or do I give Steve the honor of pulling out the welding tools?