Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
02-03-2009, 11:26 AM
#3676
I'm interested in something like this... a good way to diagnose problems considering those of with '04s are prone to engine failure around this time.
The quote I got from Park Mazda Wooster was $125 for a compression test. But I'm sure that was before parts and labor and a reach around.
The quote I got from Park Mazda Wooster was $125 for a compression test. But I'm sure that was before parts and labor and a reach around.
02-03-2009, 11:53 AM
#3677
SHKWAV
I'm apparantly in full post ***** mode today. Anyway potentially new item on the market:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...=1#post2849072
I'm thinking of taking up a collection to buy this and then have a 'compression test' meet sometime in the spring where everyone can test out their engine compression. Mazda charges $100+ for a test although I believe you get reimbursed if your engine is bad.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...=1#post2849072
I'm thinking of taking up a collection to buy this and then have a 'compression test' meet sometime in the spring where everyone can test out their engine compression. Mazda charges $100+ for a test although I believe you get reimbursed if your engine is bad.
02-03-2009, 11:56 AM
#3678
SHKWAV
Banned... you can drop yours off at the shop any day this week between 7-4 and I'll get it. The shop is probably closer to you than my apt.
Shop Address:
CnD Industries
4520 Southway st SW
Canton, OH 44706
(From rt 21:
route 30 east to Raff Rd exit. Left at the bottom of the ramp, left on to southway st. 3rd building on the left)
Shop Address:
CnD Industries
4520 Southway st SW
Canton, OH 44706
(From rt 21:
route 30 east to Raff Rd exit. Left at the bottom of the ramp, left on to southway st. 3rd building on the left)
7-4 has me at work as well. anytime after 5 is easiest for me
02-03-2009, 01:45 PM
#3679
Alright, maybe I'll just plan on staying late this friday and working on the "hog" and you and Jon could drop them off.
In other news... got my '05 flippy key from ebay today and put the recut blanks in there... I got tired of having a remote separate from the key, seemed like an alright way to spend 30 bucks.
The guy on ebay said it was from a cx7 or cx9, but I'm pretty sure neither of those remotes would have a designated trunk release. I really didn't check to make sure all the numbers were correct, but I'll give it a shot.
I'll let you guys know about how the programming goes.
In other news... got my '05 flippy key from ebay today and put the recut blanks in there... I got tired of having a remote separate from the key, seemed like an alright way to spend 30 bucks.
The guy on ebay said it was from a cx7 or cx9, but I'm pretty sure neither of those remotes would have a designated trunk release. I really didn't check to make sure all the numbers were correct, but I'll give it a shot.
I'll let you guys know about how the programming goes.
02-03-2009, 02:29 PM
#3682
The devil made me do it
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
He replaced the battery and it didn't fix it. I told him to use some contact cleaner on the board and see if one of the buttons just got a bad contact from over use or something. He hasn't said anything since.
02-03-2009, 05:10 PM
#3686
The devil made me do it
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Im with Jon on this one. The whole point of the heater core is to disipate heat to the cabin therefore lowering the temp of the coolant, while maybe only slightly. I agree...use the inlet to the heater core if it is right there. As we know the stock sensor is a dummy sensor with three positions. (Off, Running, Oh **** I boiled the coolant) So it probably doesn't matter much to the OEM sensor where it is.
02-03-2009, 05:20 PM
#3687
Now don't get me wrong... I've never installed gauges in a car before, so I'm no expert in that aspect.
I'm just applying what I do at work with heat exchangers to our car, which is a little different but the same concept.
Hell... we even brand our own sensors, though having an Allen Bradly sensor in my car might make me cringe... don't need to take a piece of work everywhere I go.
And like John said, the difference might be so slight that it doesn't matter, but why not make it as accurate as possible.
I'm just applying what I do at work with heat exchangers to our car, which is a little different but the same concept.
Hell... we even brand our own sensors, though having an Allen Bradly sensor in my car might make me cringe... don't need to take a piece of work everywhere I go.
And like John said, the difference might be so slight that it doesn't matter, but why not make it as accurate as possible.
02-03-2009, 05:32 PM
#3688
Perhaps when Jon comes down he can take a look at it.
02-03-2009, 05:53 PM
#3690
Well, the remote actually has a little red light on it when you push any button... the light doesn't seem to be dim or struggling... these don't require too much power, but it would be worth a check. If I could figure out how to open the freakin' thing.
02-03-2009, 06:09 PM
#3693
True dat... but the term "verify" is spotty... plus when I push my door jam 3x, it doesn't lock, unlock, anything... Which leads me to believe I may be doing something else incorrectly.
Also, your PM is a dead link... I couldn't get the pic.
Also, your PM is a dead link... I couldn't get the pic.
02-03-2009, 06:14 PM
#3694
Here is the post where I included the link:
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...postcount=3515
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...postcount=3515
02-03-2009, 07:11 PM
#3696
The devil made me do it
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
No...I think it is the open and close the doors three times that it is looking for.
Actually...Im right...this was in the DIY.
Actually...Im right...this was in the DIY.
IMPORTANT- When the instructions indicate you must press the door switch 3 times, they mean the door ajar switch located on the rear door, just below the front door catch.
