Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
#3858
It's Not Easy Being Green
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Location: Akron, OH
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![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Oh and I forgot to mention I'm clutchless. Kind of a buzzkill. Heh.
Oh. Welcome back Doc. And did we set a date for the car show?
#3859
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
iTrader: (28)
You guys are funny. My 8 ran pretty good today. The rattles drop off by a good 50% when the temp is above 20 degrees.
As for the auto show - Saturday the 7th is what works best for me. If I recall, that doesn't work for John... the 8th is the final day for the show... I think we just need to set a final day.
I'd prefer not to go the first weekend because it'll be crowded.
As for the auto show - Saturday the 7th is what works best for me. If I recall, that doesn't work for John... the 8th is the final day for the show... I think we just need to set a final day.
I'd prefer not to go the first weekend because it'll be crowded.
#3862
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
iTrader: (28)
Clutch Pedal update:
I've got 4 clutched to do including mine - Matt: Yes, No? Welding them tonight, so let me know.
Talked with the big cheese top dog welder in the company. I spoke with him about what the problem is and what the goal of the welding is. I showed him where they pedals typically fail and we know that is where the majority of the stress is.
The stress is at the top bent lip (which give the material its strength) straight up from the top-left bolt. (Jon, you and I discussed building up this lip) Because those are the primary places of failure, that is what we're going to focus on. Also, looking at the stresses, some of the weld are pointless because there is no load on those areas unless for some reason your pull on your clutch pedal... which I have done because I got my size 13s stuck behind it somehow.
Anyway, below is my MS paint version of the fixed pedal. The common failure points are in red... the proposed weld in yellow (and behind the lip) and the point less welds are circled in blue.
I will get them done tonight after work.
I've got 4 clutched to do including mine - Matt: Yes, No? Welding them tonight, so let me know.
Talked with the big cheese top dog welder in the company. I spoke with him about what the problem is and what the goal of the welding is. I showed him where they pedals typically fail and we know that is where the majority of the stress is.
The stress is at the top bent lip (which give the material its strength) straight up from the top-left bolt. (Jon, you and I discussed building up this lip) Because those are the primary places of failure, that is what we're going to focus on. Also, looking at the stresses, some of the weld are pointless because there is no load on those areas unless for some reason your pull on your clutch pedal... which I have done because I got my size 13s stuck behind it somehow.
Anyway, below is my MS paint version of the fixed pedal. The common failure points are in red... the proposed weld in yellow (and behind the lip) and the point less welds are circled in blue.
I will get them done tonight after work.
#3868
The devil made me do it
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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I assume you are talking about fixing the AP exhaust Jon? Dumb question...but could you pull the rivet and use a bolt or nail and weld the ends of that to make it like a rivet...but stronger? How about just rotating the tip like 1 degree and then putting a weld through the rivet hole onto the exhaust pipe that goes into the tip?
#3873
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Ryan- You still have starting issues after your BHR coil install?
The first time fired up great for me (like yours did), but every time after that, the car struggles to start.
I even ran the ground cable to a true chassis ground.
I think its weird that you mentioned having starting issues and now I'm experiencing the same.
Can we both have shitty starters right after the coil swap..................
I'm tempted to install the stock coils and see what happens.
The first time fired up great for me (like yours did), but every time after that, the car struggles to start.
I even ran the ground cable to a true chassis ground.
I think its weird that you mentioned having starting issues and now I'm experiencing the same.
Can we both have shitty starters right after the coil swap..................
I'm tempted to install the stock coils and see what happens.
#3874
It's Not Easy Being Green
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Ryan- You still have starting issues after your BHR coil install?
The first time fired up great for me (like yours did), but every time after that, the car struggles to start.
I even ran the ground cable to a true chassis ground.
I think its weird that you mentioned having starting issues and now I'm experiencing the same.
Can we both have shitty starters right after the coil swap..................
I'm tempted to install the stock coils and see what happens.
The first time fired up great for me (like yours did), but every time after that, the car struggles to start.
I even ran the ground cable to a true chassis ground.
I think its weird that you mentioned having starting issues and now I'm experiencing the same.
Can we both have shitty starters right after the coil swap..................
I'm tempted to install the stock coils and see what happens.
It may be that the coil setup requires a stronger starter. If we both have starters that were going bad (and yours did flood for the first time) then they may not be able to work well enough.
If you can swap back to the OEM and see if it helps then I'd do it. If it is still struggling I'd talk to your local dealership. Apparantly they will only replace the starter if you specifically note that the starter is going bad. And I believe that's part of the 5yr/50k powertrain warranty which I'm still under until June. Not sure if you are or not.