Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
02-15-2009, 06:00 PM
#4126
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I see they're posting names for the auto show over on C6C forum. Do we need to give them a list of names DB??? I see Machiavelli already posted over there.
02-15-2009, 06:04 PM
#4127
02-15-2009, 07:40 PM
#4129
Sorry I missed all the fun at Docs today... I would have liked to see the coils and dif. fluid.
I ended up feeling better... but also ended up working on the car anyway... flooded it again, but it was my own fault. I moved it 25 yards while cold. . . .
BUT - I did deflood by only removing one maintenance port, so that was good. Downfall is that with my catch can where it is, I need to remove that to get access to the maintenance ports.
I ended up feeling better... but also ended up working on the car anyway... flooded it again, but it was my own fault. I moved it 25 yards while cold. . . .
BUT - I did deflood by only removing one maintenance port, so that was good. Downfall is that with my catch can where it is, I need to remove that to get access to the maintenance ports.
02-15-2009, 09:46 PM
#4131
Interesting. Weird that occasionally different cars need it. The only thing we could think of is that some cars lose some travel from the top nut above and in front (towards the driver) of the clutch. Jon tried moving that and resetting the nut but it didn't help so bent the small arm.
I'll try the same sequence and see if it fixes it but after the bend Doc's was able to engage again.
Thanks Ray.
I'll try the same sequence and see if it fixes it but after the bend Doc's was able to engage again.
Thanks Ray.
02-15-2009, 10:16 PM
#4132
Since you are here and brought it up Charles, the pedal still had room to travel when looking at the top of the pedal assembly (near the spring)... guess you can call it a hard stop.
But the pedal hits the firewall before the other end makes contact (again, not meant as a hard stop, but shows that it'll allow more travel if available).
By loosing the top nut and attempting to tighten the upper most nut against the firewall, I was hoping to bring the pedal itself out more (you'll just have to imagine the pivot point to understand).
This allowed me to push the pedal in further (before it hit the firewall), but not enough to engage the switch.
I ended up bending the bracket that holds the green push pad.
But the pedal hits the firewall before the other end makes contact (again, not meant as a hard stop, but shows that it'll allow more travel if available).
By loosing the top nut and attempting to tighten the upper most nut against the firewall, I was hoping to bring the pedal itself out more (you'll just have to imagine the pivot point to understand).
This allowed me to push the pedal in further (before it hit the firewall), but not enough to engage the switch.
I ended up bending the bracket that holds the green push pad.
02-15-2009, 11:09 PM
#4135
By welding the top and then having it cool, it may have pulled the whole assembly together enough to throw off the switch... I'm betting that is what is happening. But if that were the case, a gap would be visible where the lower bolt goes.
02-15-2009, 11:24 PM
#4137
looking at the pics of the finished clutches, it is possible that is what happened. Maybe the order that you guys bolted the pedal back in place... by bolting the top bolt in place first it won't pull back closer the firewall...
I don't know really, I'm reaching now.
I don't know really, I'm reaching now.
02-15-2009, 11:55 PM
#4138
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That being said I have no clue what ray is alking about so I'm just gonna start bending **** til either my pedal breaks or it works. Pretty sure a new pedal isn't THAT expensive and bending random important **** is fun.
02-16-2009, 04:48 AM
#4139
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Something in the process MUST be causing this. There is no other explanation. Especially if BHR was experiencing the same thing. The tolerances on the fit of the switch and the plate it's on must be very narrow.
02-16-2009, 08:09 AM
#4140
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Were you at the NASA HPDE in July on Saturday and Sunday? I actually saw an RX8 on the road with decals leaving MidOhio right when I arrived on Friday night but I was the only 8 there Sat/Sun. I might do the structured NASA ladder next year to get to the point where I could race but I only have plans to continue HPDEs this year. I liked how structured there's was and they kept the track open LATE but the sheer number of cars meant it was very rare I got a good lap in without traffic until the last two sessions. Since they cost almost $100 more than a NORPCA or other club event I plan on just sticking with those if possible.
I haven't done any SCCA events but have heard they're not great. Basically I go where my friend with a full trailer goes. Tends to be a lot easier when you've got someone with spare tools/equipment.
I haven't done any SCCA events but have heard they're not great. Basically I go where my friend with a full trailer goes. Tends to be a lot easier when you've got someone with spare tools/equipment.
02-16-2009, 08:15 AM
#4141
I'll look into how the pedal shifts when I weld mine in the upcoming weeks. I wonder if mazda planned to have some "play" in the pedal for this reason?
Other possible solution... could you just shim the pedal itself? Engaging the switch earlier and fully depressing it upon engaging the clutch.
Other possible solution... could you just shim the pedal itself? Engaging the switch earlier and fully depressing it upon engaging the clutch.
02-16-2009, 09:30 AM
#4143
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I'm having trouble finding the part number for the Differential Crush Washers. The upper and the lower have different part numbers.
The part is in Sect 2710. It's page 94/305 in my parts book. The upper is 99561-1800, lower is 99564-1800. Those seem to be reference numbers, not complete part numbers.
Anybody got any ideas? Anybody else who does this is gonna need those.
The part is in Sect 2710. It's page 94/305 in my parts book. The upper is 99561-1800, lower is 99564-1800. Those seem to be reference numbers, not complete part numbers.
Anybody got any ideas? Anybody else who does this is gonna need those.
02-16-2009, 10:15 AM
#4145
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How odd. Mazdamotorsports and Mazdaparts won't take that number. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Well, we have the numbers for the next guy anyways.
Well, we have the numbers for the next guy anyways.
02-16-2009, 10:28 AM
#4148
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I don't need them now, we just have to keep it in mind for whoever does it next, or next time I do it, next Spring. I didn't know I needed them. They're not common enough for the auto parts stores to keep on hand.
02-16-2009, 10:59 AM
#4149
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Needless to say my next time out with rcomps, track brakes, and a full alignment I was going a decent amount faster.
As for something shifting with the clutch pedal, Ray said this happens fairly often on clutch swaps so I really doubt it has anything to do with welds. I'm gonna loosen and tighten and see if I can figure out what way to go to do it w/o bending and then go all Bender on my pedal.
02-16-2009, 11:39 AM
#4150
You guys are way off the mark. I have several welded pedals in the field and, aside from needing a minor tweak on the switch pad, none of them have had nearly the problems you guys are discussing here.
There is pedal HEIGHT adjustment and FREE-PLAY adjustment. Nothing else to it. The backplate metal is so thin that if too much current is used it will perforate LONG before it "warps".
I like to first set the preferred pedal height which, for me, is level with the brake pedal. I then set the free-play to me previously mentioned specs, which are in the FSM.
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 02-16-2009 at 11:41 AM.