Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
02-20-2009, 02:37 PM
#4251
Clutch pedal - no... my TIG welder is unavailable.
Kill switch, possibly, I'm buying the materials tonight on my way home from work. Along with a 12 pack, and probably some ice cream. And some paint gripper primer, sand paper, and some semi-gloss black paint.
If you want, you can solder up my heater connection for me? I need to pull that bad boy out sometime soon.
I keep trying to find a decent Jeep or mid-sized pick-up to purchase so I can stop driving the 8 (I'm at 59100 miles as of this morning) which is going to be over 30k since I bought the car last march.
In doing that, it would allow me to do things like the clutch pedal, remove and trade the cat-back, etc. I'm so torn.
Kill switch, possibly, I'm buying the materials tonight on my way home from work. Along with a 12 pack, and probably some ice cream. And some paint gripper primer, sand paper, and some semi-gloss black paint.
If you want, you can solder up my heater connection for me? I need to pull that bad boy out sometime soon.
I keep trying to find a decent Jeep or mid-sized pick-up to purchase so I can stop driving the 8 (I'm at 59100 miles as of this morning) which is going to be over 30k since I bought the car last march.
In doing that, it would allow me to do things like the clutch pedal, remove and trade the cat-back, etc. I'm so torn.
02-20-2009, 02:44 PM
#4252
Just let me know if, when, and where and I'll help out (Dremel is fully charged).
My solder iron's heating element died on me... so we would need to use John's.
I'm looking into purchasing a Hakko Soldering Station for home, but need to quit spending money on the car
I'm looking into purchasing a Hakko Soldering Station for home, but need to quit spending money on the car
02-20-2009, 02:52 PM
#4253
I don't know, maybe I should come down to the shop in order to take the heater control unit out also...
Ok, now that I've gone through this process - I'll be at the shop tomorrow morning, say 10ish if you'd like to come down and party. Then we can figure out why my foglights are brown in the middle.
EDIT: Also... a soldering Iron is a tool and not technically money spent on the car... it can be used for other things. So the cost of that shouldn't be deducted from the car budget.
02-20-2009, 03:01 PM
#4255
02-20-2009, 03:15 PM
#4257
And I store the motorcycle here.....
Only 2 posts away from 1,000! Wow; you must be busy posting to people how to deflood using washerfluid! However... for right hand drive rx8s... that procedure won't be as easy because the ports are on the other otherside of the engine, correct?
Only 2 posts away from 1,000! Wow; you must be busy posting to people how to deflood using washerfluid! However... for right hand drive rx8s... that procedure won't be as easy because the ports are on the other otherside of the engine, correct?
02-20-2009, 03:33 PM
#4259
okay... first thing.... Shut up. I still have a problem with this... if the 13B is an engine name, not a style (1.3liter Birotor) but just like a name, the renesis, by being named different, it implies that it is a different engine altogether. Which it is by moving the intake and exhaust ports.
What does the 20B mean then? or 12A? I don't understand!!!!!
2nd thing - the washer fluid and the brake master cylinder are switched.... but i guess my question pertains to is everything switched? It doesn't appear to be because the intake is still on the same side. But I could be wrong cause I never paid that much attention to it I guess.
3rd thing... true about the 35R - need is a strong word.
What does the 20B mean then? or 12A? I don't understand!!!!!
2nd thing - the washer fluid and the brake master cylinder are switched.... but i guess my question pertains to is everything switched? It doesn't appear to be because the intake is still on the same side. But I could be wrong cause I never paid that much attention to it I guess.
3rd thing... true about the 35R - need is a strong word.
02-20-2009, 03:33 PM
#4260
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Brian is still coming down Sunday AM to help with the springs/struts.
My car is gonna be on stands starting tomorrow morning. My hope tomorrow is to change my pads (still have track pads on from Sebring), change my coolant, add my water temp gauge, run my sender wire from that through my firewall, get my power working on my gauges, and maybe wash the car a bit. Depends on the temp. Oh and I want to redo my ground wire on my coils.
Sunday I'll swap the springs/struts, put on my new tower strut bar, and bend my clutch pedal so it engages the starter restrictor switch thingy. Once we have the shocks/springs hammered out Brian might put on his midpipe since we're gonna have plenty of power tools hanging around. I kinda want to take a dremel to my engine cover so it fits over the MS bar. Plus dremels are fun.
Oh and I gotta change my oil and install that fumitomo nagasaki haiku love you long time drain valve. And I gotta bleed my brakes. But I may put that off because I'll probably be wicked tired.
My car is gonna be on stands starting tomorrow morning. My hope tomorrow is to change my pads (still have track pads on from Sebring), change my coolant, add my water temp gauge, run my sender wire from that through my firewall, get my power working on my gauges, and maybe wash the car a bit. Depends on the temp. Oh and I want to redo my ground wire on my coils.
Sunday I'll swap the springs/struts, put on my new tower strut bar, and bend my clutch pedal so it engages the starter restrictor switch thingy. Once we have the shocks/springs hammered out Brian might put on his midpipe since we're gonna have plenty of power tools hanging around. I kinda want to take a dremel to my engine cover so it fits over the MS bar. Plus dremels are fun.
Oh and I gotta change my oil and install that fumitomo nagasaki haiku love you long time drain valve. And I gotta bleed my brakes. But I may put that off because I'll probably be wicked tired.
02-20-2009, 03:36 PM
#4261
okay... first thing.... Shut up. I still have a problem with this... if the 13B is an engine name, not a style (1.3liter Birotor) but just like a name, the renesis, by being named different, it implies that it is a different engine altogether. Which it is by moving the intake and exhaust ports.
What does the 20B mean then? or 12A? I don't understand!!!!!
What does the 20B mean then? or 12A? I don't understand!!!!!
A Renesis is a type of 13B engine.
Maybe Ryan can pull up his old thread where we talked about this (I'm too lazy to search now).
2nd thing - the washer fluid and the brake master cylinder are switched.... but i guess my question pertains to is everything switched? It doesn't appear to be because the intake is still on the same side. But I could be wrong cause I never paid that much attention to it I guess.
02-20-2009, 03:37 PM
#4262
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The 'B' refers to some equation used to measure the eccentric shaft relationship to the rotors. This was the second result of that equation used with a 1.3liter engine so it got a B designation. The result of that distance equation hasn't changed since then since they haven't figured out a better distance of travel path for rotors. There are actually other designations (I think it went all the way to L or K) but none in production. Those were probably development or racing engines.
The 16x should become a 16a.
Here's the thread we hugged this out:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/rotary-engine-naming-conventions-153711/
Last edited by RK; 02-20-2009 at 03:40 PM.
02-20-2009, 03:42 PM
#4263
I'm not upset, I just never knew the reasons behind it... makes more sense now I guess... But I just accepted it as it was and moved on. The rx7 had a 13B and the RX8 has a 13B called the renesis, they're not the same, but we call the same because they're not the same... a 13B can be a renesis, but a 13B from an rx7 is not a renesis.... only an rx8 engine is a renesis; but they're both 13Bs.
02-20-2009, 03:47 PM
#4267
This is what I posted in Ryan's thread:
The link I provided further into his thread (http://turborx7.com/faqs.htm) says this:
This should help clear any questions related to the engine labeling.
The numbers represent metric displacement.
The letters "A" & "B" represent the combination of two basic production engine configuration parameters, eccentricity (the distance from the center of eccentric shaft rotation to the center of the rotor) and generating radius (the distance from the center of the rotor to its apex).
The letters "A" & "B" represent the combination of two basic production engine configuration parameters, eccentricity (the distance from the center of eccentric shaft rotation to the center of the rotor) and generating radius (the distance from the center of the rotor to its apex).
What do the 10A, 12A, 13B & 20B Mazda engine designations mean?
The numbers represent metric displacement. Power is generated from one face of each rotor per shaft revolution. 10 is the result of two 491 cc rotor chambers, 982 cc total, which rounds to 1.0 liters. 12 is the result of two 573 cc rotor chambers, 1146 cc total, which incorrectly rounds to 1.2 liters. 13 is the result of two 654 cc rotor chambers, 1308 cc total, which rounds to 1.3 liters. 20 is the result of three 654 cc rotor chambers, 1962 cc total, which rounds to 2.0 liters.
The letters "A" & "B" represent the combination of two basic production engine configuration parameters, "eccentricity" and "generating radius". The "A" is applied to the first (A), and only, combination of the two specifications actually deployed in a regular production engine of nominal 0.60 liter displacement per rotor, the 12A. The "A" was also applied to the first (A), and not only, combination of the two specifications actually deployed in a regular production engine of nominal 0.65 liter displacement per rotor, the low production 13A. Mazda later determined greater economy could be achieved by using the 12A's combination of eccentricity and generating radius in conjunction with a wider rotor, thus giving birth to the second (B) regular production rotary of nominal 0.65 liter displacement per rotor, the 13B. If Mazda were to create new two rotor engines of 0.60 and/or 0.65 liter displacement per rotor using some different combination of generating radius and eccentricity, application of the same logic previously applied by Mazda in naming its rotaries would give birth to a 12B and/or a 13C.
Engine Eccentricity Generating Radius
10A, 12A, 13B, 20B 15 mm 104 mm
13A 17.5 mm 119 mm
Eccentricity
the distance from the center of eccentric shaft rotation to the center of the rotor
Generating radius
the distance from the center of the rotor to its apex.
The numbers represent metric displacement. Power is generated from one face of each rotor per shaft revolution. 10 is the result of two 491 cc rotor chambers, 982 cc total, which rounds to 1.0 liters. 12 is the result of two 573 cc rotor chambers, 1146 cc total, which incorrectly rounds to 1.2 liters. 13 is the result of two 654 cc rotor chambers, 1308 cc total, which rounds to 1.3 liters. 20 is the result of three 654 cc rotor chambers, 1962 cc total, which rounds to 2.0 liters.
The letters "A" & "B" represent the combination of two basic production engine configuration parameters, "eccentricity" and "generating radius". The "A" is applied to the first (A), and only, combination of the two specifications actually deployed in a regular production engine of nominal 0.60 liter displacement per rotor, the 12A. The "A" was also applied to the first (A), and not only, combination of the two specifications actually deployed in a regular production engine of nominal 0.65 liter displacement per rotor, the low production 13A. Mazda later determined greater economy could be achieved by using the 12A's combination of eccentricity and generating radius in conjunction with a wider rotor, thus giving birth to the second (B) regular production rotary of nominal 0.65 liter displacement per rotor, the 13B. If Mazda were to create new two rotor engines of 0.60 and/or 0.65 liter displacement per rotor using some different combination of generating radius and eccentricity, application of the same logic previously applied by Mazda in naming its rotaries would give birth to a 12B and/or a 13C.
Engine Eccentricity Generating Radius
10A, 12A, 13B, 20B 15 mm 104 mm
13A 17.5 mm 119 mm
Eccentricity
the distance from the center of eccentric shaft rotation to the center of the rotor
Generating radius
the distance from the center of the rotor to its apex.
02-20-2009, 03:51 PM
#4268
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This is what I posted in Ryan's thread:
The link I provided further into his thread (http://turborx7.com/faqs.htm) says this:
This should help clear any questions related to the engine labeling.
The link I provided further into his thread (http://turborx7.com/faqs.htm) says this:
This should help clear any questions related to the engine labeling.
I just had a thought. If the eshaft ratio on the 16x happens to match up with a eshaft ratio used in one of the racing/development motors they could call it something like a 16K. That's going to totally screw with everyone because 99% of the forum has no clue what the letters stand for on the naming conventions.
That'll be funny.
02-20-2009, 03:58 PM
#4269
As long as the eccentricity and generating radius were the same, both models should be labeled the same (though I still think it should be 16A).
Then if any racing/development motors produce the same displacement but different eccentricity and generating radius, it should be 16B
Then if any racing/development motors produce the same displacement but different eccentricity and generating radius, it should be 16B
02-20-2009, 05:09 PM
#4274
...is it over yet?
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Hey guys! 
I just wanted to let you guys know that I haven't forgot about the ol' RX8club. I've just been really, really busy with class, clinical rotations, work, etc etc. I'm looking forward to April 1st when the RX8 comes out of hibernation.
I've still got to make up my mind on what brake pads (and possibly rotors) I want to get, and I'd like to finally get my sway bars before the begining of the season.
BTW, how's doc? I haven't seen or heard from him in a while.
I just wanted to let you guys know that I haven't forgot about the ol' RX8club. I've just been really, really busy with class, clinical rotations, work, etc etc. I'm looking forward to April 1st when the RX8 comes out of hibernation.
I've still got to make up my mind on what brake pads (and possibly rotors) I want to get, and I'd like to finally get my sway bars before the begining of the season.
BTW, how's doc? I haven't seen or heard from him in a while.